How long can "China doll" hold at WOT? Also, high altitude (+gear reductions and "too lean?")

[Kehkou]

This is Waaaay too lean...time to change the C clip on the needle valve before you burn up your motor at 5200 ft altitude.

Go ahead and put it all back together as I have given instructions as to "How To" then, put in new plug gapped at .025 and then test it out for a while when you can...That means a few runs, not a 5 minute jount...lol...Then pull the plug to recheck the burn.

What do you mean, like all properly assembled?

Yes

I reassembled it correctly and on the next richest groove, as I do not want to "burn up the motor", and with the new gapped plug. I just got back from the first run, and the bike seems like it has less power now.

Even worse, I'm on ABQ's West Mesa (yes, like the WM killer for you all) my baro reads 5527 feet! Also, I just did all this with a giant "L" on the weather map overhead.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

I reassembled it correctly and on the next richest groove

I was actually hoping that you were going to leave it in the middle groove so as to be sure that it was the washer causing the lean condition, but its ok to leave it even richer during the break-in.

I just did all this with a giant "L" on the weather map overhead.

Have not a clue what that even means...lol.

 

[Chainlube]

I was actually hoping that you were going to leave it in the middle groove so as to be sure that it was the washer causing the lean condition, but its ok to leave it even richer during the break-in.


Have not a clue what that even means...lol.

He be talking about a low pressure, weather wise.

 

[Kehkou]

I was actually hoping that you were going to leave it in the middle groove so as to be sure that it was the washer causing the lean condition, but its ok to leave it even richer during the break-in.

I was thinking about it until I realized that the washer can't lean it out because either way, the c-clip still stops the advance of the needle any farther. If anything, a stuck C-washer would cause a rich condition. Suppose I could just slightly choke it instead?

He be talking about a low pressure, weather wise.

That's correct, but it was just a dry storm. I hate those!

 

[Chainlube]

I was thinking about it until I realized that the washer can't lean it out because either way, the c-clip still stops the advance of the needle any farther. If anything, a stuck C-washer would cause a rich condition.

That's correct, but it was just a dry storm. I hate those!

Those dry storms light fires, not good.

 

[Kehkou]

Those dry storms light fires, not good.

And there's plenty to burn here! If you're lucky, a good dry storm will just blow down your shed.

 

[Kehkou]

After the second ride, the Idle seems so high now that I almost took the screw out trying to adjust, yeah without a tach I know, but it doesn't have that idle sound anymore and takes me past 10 MPH without throttle input. Is it my cable maybe? I didn't adjust it; I just fixed the washer and enrichened the needle.

I need to tear the carby open again, must be a leak somewhere...and check the jet. I just don't have any minute drill bits, and the smallest wire stock I have is American 18 gauge and I wouldn't trust the size accuracy since it is probably CCC wire (copper-clad chineseium).

 

[Chainlube]

After the second ride, the Idle seems so high now that I almost took the screw out trying to adjust, yeah without a tach I know, but it doesn't have that idle sound anymore and takes me past 10 MPH without throttle input. Is it my cable maybe? I didn't adjust it; I just fixed the washer and enrichened the needle.

I need to tear the carby open again, must be a leak somewhere...and check the jet. I just don't have any minute drill bits, and the smallest wire stock I have is American 18 gauge and I wouldn't trust the size accuracy since it is probably CCC wire (copper-clad chineseium).

Not the carb! It's the connection between the carb/manifold or manifold/cylinder, check for an air leak.

Get yourself a spray bottle with some water in it, start the bike, when it idles high mist the two connections with water, if it instantly dies you've found the leak.

 

[Kehkou]

Not the carb! It's the connection between the carb/manifold or manifold/cylinder, check for an air leak.

Get yourself a spray bottle with some water in it, start the bike, when it idles high mist the two connections with water, if it instantly dies you've found the leak.

Thanks, I'll give it try.

 

[rusty.western.flyer]

Not the carb! It's the connection between the carb/manifold or manifold/cylinder, check for an air leak.

Get yourself a spray bottle with some water in it, start the bike, when it idles high mist the two connections with water, if it instantly dies you've found the leak.

Ever since my first MB leaked there, I stick an o-ring in the carb and push it tight against the manifold as I tighten it.