In the begining...

New to the forum and considering my first build. I'm curious as to what any/everybody might thing of the bike I am hoping to start with.
The basics that I have...
Frame - '96 Kona Cinder Cone size small 14"
Shock - Marzocchi Atom Bomb Z2 60mm travel, Coil and Oil
Head Set - Chris King
Stem - Diamond Back Billet
Bars - BMX style handle
Drive - RaceFace cranks, single speed 34/19
Brakes - XT side pulls - front and rear
Wheels (F) Rolf Dolomite or Alex 18, (R) LX/Mavic

I was a bit worried about being able to squeeze a motor in the triangle but I think after mocking it up with a friends parts motor, it will work. I think it will need an offset intake and I will need to grind a little from the mounts.

Does anyone have an opinion about using a light butted cro-mo frame?
I have a little welidng experience and own a small mig and have considered adding a few gussets in some corners.
I'm not sure of a direction to go other than the obvious... keep it light simple sort-of motocrossish.

Again, I am new to this, and looking for suggestions and input before I move forward.
My current plan is to pickup a basic 66/80 kit and see where it takes me.
Thanks for taking the time to look.
MF

 

[gary55]

Why drill out the clutch plate?

I think it's about reducing the weight of engine components. No 1 thing has a great effect, but a lot of little things ad up to some noticeable improvement in how quickly the engine will grab RPM.

 

[Frankenstein]

I think it's about reducing the weight of engine components. No 1 thing has a great effect, but a lot of little things ad up to some noticeable improvement in how quickly the engine will grab RPM.

That was my initial thought too, perhaps a bit extreme but these not very powerful motors need all the help they can get. I hope he beveled the edges since they will file away his pads if not. Only concern is a pad that is loose enough to rotate slightly in its bed and having a corner catch the plate locking the clutch together.

 

[AvolioG]

That was my initial thought too, perhaps a bit extreme but these not very powerful motors need all the help they can get. I hope he beveled the edges since they will file away his pads if not. Only concern is a pad that is loose enough to rotate slightly in its bed and having a corner catch the plate locking the clutch together.

Yes, I was sure to bevel / de-burr the edges of the holes. Weight is one reason, the other is temperature, think brake rotors. About 40 miles on it so far, seem to work as desired.

It does 4 stroke a bit. I will order a jet kit once I finish with the exhaust. I still have the stock #70 in the NT carb. The plug is pretty dark and oily.
Some
I do have a concern, maybe I can get some input on... It seems to be running hot. I have a ngk b6hs plug. The silver area just above the head is discolored, tarnished looking with a slight iridescents. Sorry no pic. The head was slightly warped when I rebuilt it, nothing a little 400 grit and some elbow grease could not fix. It did spring a small leak yesterday. I've retightend them and we'll see today.

 

[Avolio G]

Weight and heat are the main reasons for drilling the clutch. Think brake rotors.
Seems to work as it should.

I do have a issue with 4stroking. But I will get a jet kit once I finish the exhaust.

Another thing is that it seems to be running hot. There is a dicoloration of the silver part of the plug near the head, just above the washer. It is tarnished looking and has a slight iridescents. Using an NGK B6HS. It could just be the fresh engine paint. Although I did bake the jug and head @ 400° for about an hour. I am worried about warping the head. I did have to plane it, 400 on glass, a little when I rebuilt. And it did start leaking a little yesterday, re torked them after it cooled down and we will see today.

Sorry Frank' if you are reading this again.

 

[Frankenstein]

Weight and heat are the main reasons for drilling the clutch. Think brake rotors.
Seems to work as it should.

I do have a issue with 4stroking. But I will get a jet kit once I finish the exhaust.

Another thing is that it seems to be running hot. There is a dicoloration of the silver part of the plug near the head, just above the washer. It is tarnished looking and has a slight iridescents. Using an NGK B6HS. It could just be the fresh engine paint. Although I did bake the jug and head @ 400° for about an hour. I am worried about warping the head. I did have to plane it, 400 on glass, a little when I rebuilt. And it did start leaking a little yesterday, re torked them after it cooled down and we will see today.

Sorry Frank' if you are reading this again.

I don't read, I scan.

May have been a tiny leak that fixed itself, I'm certain you don't have fake spark plugs.

 

[Avolio G]

Picked the plug up at the local O'Reilly's. Hope it's not a fraud. Under 3$.