Milled head - WOW!

[go-rebels]

I find that to get access to the head bolts under the frame tubes, I 'll have to shift the engine THREE INCHES to the left or OVER THREE INCHES to the right.

I measured it.

Hal

Are we talking about the NE5?

Have we removed the gas tank?

I just changed heads and installed a high fin head that is much more difficult to install compared to the stock head. With the tank removed and with a little lateral movement I was able to get nearly straight access to all the bolt heads including the ones near the middle. I ran my long ball hex allen in between the two top frame tubes to access the "toughies".

 

[Hal the Elder]

YEP...it's a 2005 NE5 and I removed the gas tank!

I returned the long-reach ball-end allen wrench set because I couldn't get them onto the 5 bolts under the frame tubes.

I explained this in an earlier post...didn't you read it?

HAL

 

[go-rebels]

Yes, I did. But I didn't believe it.

I moved my motor laterally no more than +/- 1/4" and had no problem going around the frame tubes, both inside and outside. Most just needed a slight movement of 1/8". You needed 3", I guess to gain access from outside the frame rails.

You described angles of 45 degrees to the axis of the bolt. I don't think that the ball-hex sockets are designed to work at angles greater than 20/30 degrees. I know that I'm not angling mine much... certainly less than 10 degrees.

The hex portion of my sockets is 4"-5" long. If they are significantly shorter you will have interference problems with your ratchet and the frame.

Are you sure the hex portion of your sockets are long enough?

 

[Hal the Elder]

I don't know what you mean about the "hex portions" of my "sockets".

I'm not using sockets or ratchets at all.

I'm using plain old Metric Allen Wrenches....the same ones I used to remove the head.

As I've said previously, I returned those long-reach ball-end Allen Wrenches yesterday to Harbor Freight Tools.

They had a 3/8" drive on one end of the wrench which would have fit my 1/2" drive torque wrench with a drive adapter.

My head is all tightened in place now, using Quenton's tightening sequence plus the experience I've gained in tightening bolts from the ownership of 24 cars and 7 motorcycles over the past 57 years.

To summarize, I didn't use my torque wrench because the screwy position of my Whizzer engine would not allow it, so I did it without using torque readings, and I'm not the least bit concerned about it.

HAL

 

[go-rebels]

I don't know what you mean about the "hex portions" of my "sockets".

...

They had a 3/8" drive on one end of the wrench which would have fit my 1/2" drive torque wrench with a drive adapter.

HAL

The 3/8" drive end of the "wrench" is the socket. The "hex" portion is the straight hex shaped hardened, black oxide shaft that has a machined ("ball") end to fit and rotate in a hex cap screw head. If that straight hex section was 4"-5" long then I don't understand why they didn't work. If they were shorter, then I understand your problem.

But it's all a moot point now.

 

[Hal the Elder]

The shanks of the long reach Allen wrenches were plenty long enough...probably 6 or 7 inches.

But because of the position of the engine relative to the frame, they simply required too much of an angular displacement to engage the bolt heads.

Yes, the point is now moot and my head has been successfully installed...so where do you wanna meet for beers?

HAL

 

[RdKryton]

Well how does it run Hal? With the smaller jet did it start ok? Just wondering...

Jim

 

[Hal the Elder]

HEY JIM:

I'll know how it starts and runs when I bolt the Carburetor back on...which brings up a point:

I replaced my #90 Main Jet with a #82 which Quenton sent me, believing I was running too rich.

Before I put the throttle slide back in the carb, what clip position should I use on the jet needle for my altitude of 3000 ft, with the mods I have made so far: Opened intake, Hi-flow exhaust, mushroom lifters, advanced valve timing, and now higher compression?

Thanks...
HAL

 

[RdKryton]

Hi again Hal.
A good standard starting point has been to use the second groove from the top. The taper of the needle seems to dictate the position and the best overall results have been in the second groove. There are exceptions but most people are getting the best results there.
Good luck.

Jim

 

[Hal the Elder]

HEY JIM:

I just removed my Jet Needle, and found the clip was always in the top notch, for the leanest operation, yet Quenton and I both saw that I was running rich, from the extreme carbonization of the head and cylinder deck.

Wouldn't placing the clip in the next notch down exacerbate the situation, or would my leaner Main Jet fix everything?

I'd like to know before I slap that 22mm carb back on!

Thanks again...
HAL