motorcycle light hook-up??????

[TucsonDIrect]

This part has me wondering what the heck your saying.......Dude.

sorry i was on my Mobile phone...

the "0"s are just "*null*" as in nothing
the fourms act weird when you try to space things
| | <i put 10 spaces between these
vs
|0000000000| "0"s are "spaces" so everything lines up

______ and ||||| are cables going either horizontally or vertical Nothing more

this was a clarification to someone who was asking what parallel was then someone kind of told them but to someone who doesnt know the actual wiring they could see a graphical layout of how to wire 2 batteries in either setup

HTH

 

[TucsonDIrect]

how about scavaging an old cordless dril and useing batt and charger that way you cuold carry extra batt and switching them wold be a snap

this could certainly work and is a great idea, Just have to be careful what Voltages you have in your battery packs you will need a resistor or voltage regulator so you dont blow out your lights if your using a 18v pack a 14v pack wouldnt do any harm because thats the typical voltage of a battery when in a Normal car while its on

My only consideration would be the vibration from the Engine.. batteries dont like vibration
one thought to help alevieate the fatigue would be to possibly suspend the batteries with some springs? and a rubber dampening pad of some sort
also PLEASE dont skimp on fuses!!! we all know how these bikes can rattle us humans apart... one short and your whole bike *could* go up in flames if it starts any rubber on fire or hits a gas line

 

[retromike3]

I use "old school" halogen

I set myself up with a Niterider halogen that I got on sale at Performance. I paid eighty dollars for it and it worked really well for about fifteen minutes. Then it would go out. I did have a battery pack from an old light I had that somebody stole the headlight off. The old light kit was called a Night Sun and it worked really well and if had a auto charge circuit.

Fortunately for me the batteries were the same type(Ni-Cad) in both units, so all I did was to wire them together in parallel. Unfortunately I had to cut the covers off the old batteries and get them out to do the job.

The set up I now have has about thirty w. output for over an hour and they are very stable. Unfortunately the setup costs me more than my engine and I still have to charge them up over night.

mike

 

[loquin]

Use the code tags when posting, and you don't get the 'wierd' things the forum software does to text. The [noparse]

...

[/noparse] tags displays the text, exactly as types, and in a fixed-width font, inside a window titled 'Code:'.

Note that the following example is shown inside a code block, so that you can see the spacing in both the 'before' and 'after' text.

[noparse][code]   Your Text     =       goes here

[/noparse] [/code]

causes the following:

   Your Text     =       goes here

 

[machiasmort]

Hey Loquin, What do they call a unit that goes between the battery and generator on a motorcycle which prevents the Jenny from overcharging the battery?

Does this unit limit the voltage output of the Jenny or just the amp output?

A second question: in an EMP or Solar flare, would our bikes still run? If not, where is the weak link?

Thanks in advance Brother Lou!

 

[TucsonDIrect]

Hey Loquin, What do they call a unit that goes between the battery and generator on a motorcycle which prevents the Jenny from overcharging the battery?

Does this unit limit the voltage output of the Jenny or just the amp output?

A second question: in an EMP or Solar flare, would our bikes still run? If not, where is the weak link?

Thanks in advance Brother Lou!

That would be the voltage regulator,
And yes in an emp your bike would still run unless it was running when the emp hit (still might run even so) the weak link would be the cdi but i imagine it would just short out to ground and all would still work




Thanks for the Code tag, i never even thought about that!

 

[davidstipek]

Why don't you modify lamp to hold 2 12V Halogen Panasonic flashlight srew in bulbs?? You can use 1 for low beam and 2 for high with a diode. I have been running 2 bikes, one 6V and the other 12V using wheel driven dyno's with rectifiers to charge battery while I ride. Chargers will keep up with what is being consumed while in motion, rectifier chages Volts from AC to DC to charge battery. I have to plug into charger once a week with everyday use. I think Amps on bulbs is around .6, I am using for brakelight, headlight four flashing leds for turn signals and Horn. no issues

If you need wiring diagram I can send I believe I still have on computer.
David

 

[davidstipek]

I had my original bike from 55 years ago, it had Miller Lighting headlight, taillight and wheel driven dynometer. When I went back stateside 3 years ago I visited old farm and Dad showed me where it was in Loft of Barn.... So I robbed and modified to use here see pictures in some of my postings shows headlight on low beam and brake, tail light and turn signals

David

 

[hammer5312]

Just clarification

Parallel ( "|" = a wire ) 0=empty space (editing reasons)

+ [12v] - 10ah
|000000|
+ [12v] - 10ah
|000000|
|000000|
|=00000|
+ [12v] - 20ah total

Series

+[12v] - 10ah
|00000|_______________ ( Negative "-" Cable)
|
-[12v] + 10 ah
000000|_______________ (Positive "+" Cable)

Above equals 24v (volts) at 10ah (amp hours)


Hope this helps clear things up a little

NEVER WHEN RUNNING IN SERIES CONNECT BOTH CABLES TO BOTH BATTERIES YOU SHOULD ALWAYS HAVE 1 CABLE CONNECTING THE 2 BATTERIES +TO - AND ON EACH BATTERY THE ONE THAT IS NOT LINKED TO THE OTHER BATTERY SHOULD BE FREE I.E LEFT BATT IS LINKED TO OTHER BATTERY ON THE POSITIVE SIDE THIS MEANS THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THIS BATTERY SHOULD BE "FREE" OR ON YOUR 24V LOAD AS THE NEGATIVE INPUT AND THE RIGHT SIDE WOULD BE THE OPPOSITE Should you screw this part up you will find out very soon Please be careful around boxes filled with explosive gasses, acid, lead and all things deadly!

I see...you are actually drawing a battery diagram....it took me a second of looking at it and reading everyone's post to figure it out....
Been a while since I played with electrical things...had to clear the cobwebs out of the dark and dusty places in the brain....