New Improved Felt Red Barron.

I got bored so I rebuilt the death trap... here is the new and improved red barron.

Most notable improvements include a brand new Grubee 66cc engine, kill switch delete w/new grips, sick bikes front mount, sick bikes expansion chamber, an HD flywheel from sick bikes, an 11 tooth sbk sprocket for the jackshaft, and a better fuel tank mounting arrangement that allows me to lower my seat to a comfortable position.

My comments on the new sick bike parts... the expansion chamber is AWESOME!!!! It lets you rev a couple thousand higher in the rpm range giving you access to the additional torque. The only thing I can compare it to is real 3 lobe Honda vtec, ( as in an rsx type s or 99 civic si). If you add the nuvinci hub, 11 tooth sprocket, and air filter what you get is an amazing machine that starts to approach the performance of an actual motorcycle. It really is amazing. The pipe gives you the revs... the revs give you torque... and the nuvinci hub with bigger sprocket lets you effectively use the torque to get speed. I have fallen in love with the red barron all over again. I think the next upgrade is a rock solid head. I will keep you guys posted.

A couple of fabrication tips for anybody building something like this...

I couldn't get the sbp expansion chamber to fit so I fabbed up my own down tube and hanger... very easy to do and it works well with the felt frame. If it looks familiar... thats because it is; I used the stock exhaust and just cut the muffler off leaving the downtube. I used JB weld and the brass pipe fittings that came with the sbp kit to attach the resonance chamber. I cut the silicone tubing and wrapped it around the whole area and hose clamped it tight while the epoxy was still wet. It has cured pretty tight and doesn't leak AT ALL. To hang it I just used a wire coat hanger and bent it to shape, then used the mounting hole and bolt originally intended for the rear fender to hang it. The gas tank mounted easily with some old tire rubber I found on the road and some 5000 lb epoxy. I cut 4 squares using the existing tread pattern on the tire scrap and glued it under the 4 corners of the tank to keep it from rattling. A pair of VERY heavy duty zip ties holds the tank to the rack. I deleted the kill switch using the throttle piece from dax. The thread pitch and hole size were too small so be prepared to drill out and tap a new thread pitch for the throttle cable.

As you will see... still no brakes. I think I am starting to like riding it that way.

Anyways, here are some pics. All comments welcome, hope you enjoy.

rb6.jpg


rb3.jpg


rb3-1.jpg


rb4.jpg


rb1.jpg


rb9.jpg


rb10.jpg
 
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Chain Tensioner

Good work on the chain tensioner. I made a similar tensioner out of plastic. Nice choice on the two stroke. If you want to get rid of the two stroke stink, you can add Manhattan Oil brand fuel fragrance. Use half the recommended amount, which is 3 ml per gallon gas/oil mix. -Erik
 
Good work on the chain tensioner. I made a similar tensioner out of plastic. Nice choice on the two stroke. If you want to get rid of the two stroke stink, you can add Manhattan Oil brand fuel fragrance. Use half the recommended amount, which is 3 ml per gallon gas/oil mix. -Erik

I was reading an old felt cruiser thread and you mentioned having the same problem I did with the chain being pulled forwards by the engine torque... just thought you might be able to use the idea to save the headaches.

How did the plastic work??? Kinda wish I woulda thought of that, it would have been much easier to work with than the steel screws.
 
-custom chain tensioner.... I made them using an old bolt that I cut off and filed on both ends to fit in the hole between the frame and hub. I then filed them flat on the top to fit nicely against the hub bracket. Now my chain doesn't constantly fall off... it took a few hours to get them just right but they work AWESOME!!!! And they were free.[/QUOTE said:
Can't quite see what you did to get the chain tensioned. Can you show a picture of how this bolt thingy works. The pedal chain looks a bit slack for a Hub gear so I can imagine it comes off quite easily. Can't you permanently tension the pedal chain by sliding the axle back along the drop outs until the chain is really tight?
 
Can't quite see what you did to get the chain tensioned. Can you show a picture of how this bolt thingy works. The pedal chain looks a bit slack for a Hub gear so I can imagine it comes off quite easily. Can't you permanently tension the pedal chain by sliding the axle back along the drop outs until the chain is really tight?

If you look at the slot where the axle slides in you will notice it is flat and not angled down. Without the tensioner there, the hub tends to slide forwards with the pull of the engine... in other words the tensioner just keeps the hub in place. By filing them down you can adjust how tight or loose you want the chain. It really works well and isn't mechanically or aesthetically obtrusive.

It was a little slack, so when I put a new chain on I made new ones. It failed me yesterday but only because the new chain I put on stretched... so I may just have to have a set of different sizes to exactly match the specs I need for any given chain.
 
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If you look at the slot where the axle slides in you will notice it is flat and not angled down. Without the tensioner there, the hub tends to slide forwards with the pull of the engine... in other words the tensioner just keeps the hub in place. By filing them down you can adjust how tight or loose you want the chain. It really works well and isn't mechanically or aesthetically obtrusive.

It was a little slack, so when I put a new chain on I made new ones. It failed me yesterday but only because the new chain I put on stretched... so I may just have to have a set of different sizes to exactly match the specs I need for any given chain.

I understand fully now Vtec. Thanks for explaining. I would have thought that the drop-out lugs on the Felt would be pretty thick and with good washers & nuts you could tighten the hub to absolute refusal. I can usually do that on Schwinns but cheaper cruisers have thinner lugs that deflect under engine power and make tightening the axle in place difficult. I would never use a quick release axle cos they can't be tightened to total refusal.
Your method isounds just great but I'd like to see close ups.
 
We just installed an engine on a NEXT La Jolla bike and that had washers with teeth on it. I noted that for upcoming builds. I had a bit of an issue with a sliding axle on my bike but could finally tighten it down to stay put. The way my stays are, the chain would get tighter when it slid, too tight. If you go to Wal Mart and check out the La Jolla (or possibly any Next bike) you can see what I mean. I don't know if bike stores might carry them or maybe even a hardware store. Hope it helps.
 
We just installed an engine on a NEXT La Jolla bike and that had washers with teeth on it. I noted that for upcoming builds. I had a bit of an issue with a sliding axle on my bike but could finally tighten it down to stay put. The way my stays are, the chain would get tighter when it slid, too tight. If you go to Wal Mart and check out the La Jolla (or possibly any Next bike) you can see what I mean. I don't know if bike stores might carry them or maybe even a hardware store. Hope it helps.

I understand fully now Vtec. Thanks for explaining. I would have thought that the drop-out lugs on the Felt would be pretty thick and with good washers & nuts you could tighten the hub to absolute refusal. I can usually do that on Schwinns but cheaper cruisers have thinner lugs that deflect under engine power and make tightening the axle in place difficult. I would never use a quick release axle cos they can't be tightened to total refusal.
Your method isounds just great but I'd like to see close ups.

nope... impossible. I definitely tried to tighten them down as much as I could and the hub always ended up slipping anyways. The felt frames are aluminum; so if you have a steel washer/nut with teeth, an aluminum bike, and excessive torque on the drive chain, you just get little flakes of aluminum and a loose hub/drive chain.
 
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I'd love to know where you got the tank from that's the same idea I had, nothing is original I guess, but I can't find anywhere that has any tanks like that that I could work with. I want to be able to hold like 3 gallons or so of fuel.
 
I'd love to know where you got the tank from that's the same idea I had, nothing is original I guess, but I can't find anywhere that has any tanks like that that I could work with. I want to be able to hold like 3 gallons or so of fuel.

what tank? The rack or the behind-the-seat tank???

I think I got the rack tank from dax... the goped tank I got from daves motors...

http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.4182/.f

they also make one with a single fuel line if you dont like/need the double fuel lines.
 
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