New Improved Felt Red Barron.

I got bored so I rebuilt the death trap... here is the new and improved red barron.

Most notable improvements include a brand new Grubee 66cc engine, kill switch delete w/new grips, sick bikes front mount, sick bikes expansion chamber, an HD flywheel from sick bikes, an 11 tooth sbk sprocket for the jackshaft, and a better fuel tank mounting arrangement that allows me to lower my seat to a comfortable position.

My comments on the new sick bike parts... the expansion chamber is AWESOME!!!! It lets you rev a couple thousand higher in the rpm range giving you access to the additional torque. The only thing I can compare it to is real 3 lobe Honda vtec, ( as in an rsx type s or 99 civic si). If you add the nuvinci hub, 11 tooth sprocket, and air filter what you get is an amazing machine that starts to approach the performance of an actual motorcycle. It really is amazing. The pipe gives you the revs... the revs give you torque... and the nuvinci hub with bigger sprocket lets you effectively use the torque to get speed. I have fallen in love with the red barron all over again. I think the next upgrade is a rock solid head. I will keep you guys posted.

A couple of fabrication tips for anybody building something like this...

I couldn't get the sbp expansion chamber to fit so I fabbed up my own down tube and hanger... very easy to do and it works well with the felt frame. If it looks familiar... thats because it is; I used the stock exhaust and just cut the muffler off leaving the downtube. I used JB weld and the brass pipe fittings that came with the sbp kit to attach the resonance chamber. I cut the silicone tubing and wrapped it around the whole area and hose clamped it tight while the epoxy was still wet. It has cured pretty tight and doesn't leak AT ALL. To hang it I just used a wire coat hanger and bent it to shape, then used the mounting hole and bolt originally intended for the rear fender to hang it. The gas tank mounted easily with some old tire rubber I found on the road and some 5000 lb epoxy. I cut 4 squares using the existing tread pattern on the tire scrap and glued it under the 4 corners of the tank to keep it from rattling. A pair of VERY heavy duty zip ties holds the tank to the rack. I deleted the kill switch using the throttle piece from dax. The thread pitch and hole size were too small so be prepared to drill out and tap a new thread pitch for the throttle cable.

As you will see... still no brakes. I think I am starting to like riding it that way.

Anyways, here are some pics. All comments welcome, hope you enjoy.

 

[MalakTheBeast]

Dax? That's what I'm talking about yeah, the rack tank.

 

[danlandberg]

Great looking bike!!! I am looking for another frame to build on, mine was stolen in vegas. I am unemployed at this time, so it will have to wait. But I have to say it again " GREAT looking bike" Great job!!!

 

[doofedek]

Ridley motor mount vs SBP mount

give me vtec - your red baron looks awesome. question for you. why did you replace the Ridley front motor mount with the SBP motor mount? I am building a Felt slater and was seriously considering shelling out the $bucks for the ridley mount....if the SBP mount works better that would be great. Was one better than the other for vibrations? The Ridley mount appears to have a rubber spacer -- did that help with anything??

 

[danlandberg]

give me vtec - your red baron looks awesome. question for you. why did you replace the Ridley front motor mount with the SBP motor mount? I am building a Felt slater and was seriously considering shelling out the $bucks for the ridley mount....if the SBP mount works better that would be great. Was one better than the other for vibrations? The Ridley mount appears to have a rubber spacer -- did that help with anything??

The ridley mount is A FINE piece of art! But like any piece of art, it cost$$$ If you look at my ''old Royce Union'' or stold in Vegas, you can see that you can make a functional front mount out of what ever is lying around! The SBP front mount is adjustable to lower or raise the engine it self depending on frame size. (It comes with spacers to help). If you have the $$$, try the ridley, But I'll bet you will go to the SBP (or another Co.) for a simpler universal mount!

 

[give me vtec]

give me vtec - your red baron looks awesome. question for you. why did you replace the Ridley front motor mount with the SBP motor mount? I am building a Felt slater and was seriously considering shelling out the $bucks for the ridley mount....if the SBP mount works better that would be great. Was one better than the other for vibrations? The Ridley mount appears to have a rubber spacer -- did that help with anything??

the ridley mount was ok... it did reduce vibrations significantly. the problem with the front ridley mount is that it is designed to be used in conjunction with the rear ridly mount. since i used the sick bikes jackshaft.... i couldnt use the rear ridly mount. this caused the engine to pitch left under heavy throttle or load. the engine always lined up center left which caused it to pull the chain slightly left... combine that with a hub that likes to pull forwards under heavy load and you get a frustrating condition that pulls the chain off under heavy acceleration.

long story short... if you want to run the chain directly to the back wheel, then the set of ridly mounts would be the best choice. if you want to run a sick bikes jackshaft and nuvinci hub combination, go with the sick bikes universal front mount.

 

[PatrickW]

Chain Tensioner (dropout filler)

I solved that same problem many years ago to my satisfaction using toilet mounting bolts (or 'flange fasteners'.) Talk to the plumbing guy at Home Depot. They have a flat 'flange' for a head, and are made of brass, so they are tough, but won't rust. With the head on the inside of the dropout slot, they won't interfere with the hub or spokes. Being brass, they can be shaped to fit very easily with a flat file, or a BFH. You can use various sized 'Fender Washers' inside the dropout to push against the rear axle to get the tension where you want it, then put the brass nut on the outside and cut off the excess bolt. Clean and looks slick. They cut off very easily with a hacksaw, and paint well. Hope this helps someone.

 

[give me vtec]

I solved that same problem many years ago to my satisfaction using toilet mounting bolts (or 'flange fasteners'.) Talk to the plumbing guy at Home Depot. They have a flat 'flange' for a head, and are made of brass, so they are tough, but won't rust. With the head on the inside of the dropout slot, they won't interfere with the hub or spokes. Being brass, they can be shaped to fit very easily with a flat file, or a BFH. You can use various sized 'Fender Washers' inside the dropout to push against the rear axle to get the tension where you want it, then put the brass nut on the outside and cut off the excess bolt. Clean and looks slick. They cut off very easily with a hacksaw, and paint well. Hope this helps someone.

yep... I did that mod with an a couple of spare bolts that came off my jeep when I put the rack on.

Worked great...

 

[doofedek]

give me vtec - thanks for the information...that definitely helps with the decision as to which mount.

 

[scottyo]

Vtec,
Can you tell us your speeds up hills and on flats? I didnt see it here. Im interested bc I want to add felt thick bricks to my bike but would never make it width wise and a sbp jack shaft kit wouldnt currently be a good idea bc im running a single speed. I noticed you have the felt internal geared hub. How does this mesh with the jack shaft for performance? Ive read that with a rear cassette/derailer it comparable to shifting between a 22 tooth sprocket and a 56tooth sprocket on a normal two chain set up. Do you see a comparable variation on the internal hub? I think I could possibly install the rear 3 speed hub and also purchase the 4 stroke jack shaft kit that just came out as well as get the sweet thick bricks, but Id love to hear your thoughts before I shell out that much moola.

 

[give me vtec]

Vtec,
Can you tell us your speeds up hills and on flats? I didnt see it here. Im interested bc I want to add felt thick bricks to my bike but would never make it width wise and a sbp jack shaft kit wouldnt currently be a good idea bc im running a single speed. I noticed you have the felt internal geared hub. How does this mesh with the jack shaft for performance? Ive read that with a rear cassette/derailer it comparable to shifting between a 22 tooth sprocket and a 56tooth sprocket on a normal two chain set up. Do you see a comparable variation on the internal hub? I think I could possibly install the rear 3 speed hub and also purchase the 4 stroke jack shaft kit that just came out as well as get the sweet thick bricks, but Id love to hear your thoughts before I shell out that much moola.

speed??? I dont have an exact answer because the bike doesn't have a speedo. Its fast.... downhill or uphill.

I ran the jackshaft with a single speed first. It worked great except the hub that came with my bike was garbage from day one. It failed under pedal power alone the second day after I got the bike. The guy at the shop gave me a new snapring but it still failed. So I bought the hub you see there now.

The hub is a nuvinci, not a felt piece. To be honest I wouldn't recommend anything else, the nuvinci hub is AWESOME. Definitely worth every penny.

I am also looking at buying the new sick bike 4 stroke jackshaft kit... you have to run it with either a honda gxh50 or an equivalent clone. It also requires a grubee stage 2 or 3 gearbox and a shifting mechanism on the hub. A nuvinci setup would be great with this combo but very $$$$$. Looking at over a $1000 if you get the Honda motor.

I am planning on using the kit with a Schwinn jaguar (or whatever they call the white ones from target). That way I shouldn't run into any clearance issues, it has a solid rear axle, and a 7 speed derailleur.

What bike are you using???