New Owner with problems....

mortiseman

New Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2008
Messages
12
Hello Everyone!


I just purchased a 1999 WC1 yesterday. I know nothing about the bike or Whizzers in general!!! I actually purchased the bike for my dad and want to get it running before I give it to him.

I purchased the bike knowing it did not run. While the guy was moving the bike, a dresser fell on the bike and broke the "run switch" on the right handle. The guy who sold me the bike was 90% sure this is why the bike would not run. Last night I replaced the entire switch assembly and charged the battery.

Last night I tried to fire the bike with no success. I see the bike has a key, a run switch, 2 fuel cut-offs, a choke, a clutch and a thumb switch under the clutch (not sure what this is???). The guy who sold me the bike told me that you turn the key, open the fuel cut-offs, throw the run switch, and pull the clutch. After you pedal you let out the clutch and the bike should fire???? I did notice that if I pushed the switch (under the clutch handle) while the clutch was pulled it that the headlights dim and it seemed to want to start. If I let go of that switch the bike just dies....

Any idea what I am missing here?

Finally, The guy who sold it to me told me that it had the original spark plug and that it probably needed replaced. I saw in a post, "for early head it is BR6HIX #3419. On later, 10mm plug use CR7EIX #7385". How do i know what "head" I have?

Thank you for all of your help. just reading on this forum has gave me great insight on Whizzer motorbikes!
 

Quenton Guenther

Well-Known Member
Vendor
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Messages
2,157
Hi Mortiseman,
I received you PM, but it might help other new Whizzer owners if I post an answer to your questions here. Use the compression release to start your Whizzer, not the clutch. Simply enguage the lever [on the left control, under the clutch lever], start pedaling and then release the lever to start the motor. On the WC-1 motors you will need to open the fuel petcock on the tank, the fuel shutoff on the side of the carburetor, lift the choke lever [black assembly on the carburetor], and then use the compression release, start pedaling, release compression lever, motor should start. After the motor starts, move the choke lever downward to ride motorbike.
The 1999 used a 14 MM sparkplug, and can be replaced with a NGK sparkplug [ I think a C5HS would work]. Gap the plug at .025". If the motor has a Champion spark plug [original], just have an auto parts store cross it over to the NGK brand. I also think an Autolite #275 is the correct plug for the 1999 model.
If the bike has been sitting for a long period of time, you might need to remove and clean the carburetor.
How many miles are on the Bike? Before you give the bike to your Dad, you might want to consider upgrading the motor, to make it start EASY, idle smoother, more low end torque, and better gas mileage. Most Whizzer dealers can help you, and I noticed you are in Ohio [I am from Dayton], so help may be close, if not I can help you from North Carolina via phone [252-475-04060].

Have fun,
Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton "Lee" Guenther
 
Last edited:

mortiseman

New Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2008
Messages
12
Thanks for the reply Quenton.

First, happy Independence Day to all!

Well, i have replaced the spark plug, drained all of the old gas and cleaned the carburetor. How can I tell if I am getting a spark? I have checked all the grounds and I have removed the battery (I think it may be bad). I just can't get this thing to turn over....

Thanks!

-MM
 

Quenton Guenther

Well-Known Member
Vendor
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Messages
2,157
Hi MM,
Remove the spark plug, leave it connected to the coil [spark plug cap], lay base of spark plug against the head [to create the ground], turn motor over [pedal] and look for spark at the tip of the spark plug. If you have spark, you might try putting just a little gas [via the spark plug hole, with plug removed], install the plug, pedal motor and if it fires, it means no fuel to the motor. Often this process can be repeated, and the motor will start & run.
If you need additional help you can call me on my cell phone 252-475-0406

Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton
 
Last edited:

jbcruisin

Member
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
688
spark

Take out the plug. Plug the spark plug wire back in. Lay the plug on top of the cylinder. Make sure the key is turned on, the run switch at the throttle is flipped up & pedal the bike with the center stand down. The back wheel has to be off the ground so I get someone to hold onto the front of the bike & push the front end down. If it's real sunny it is harder to see the spark if you're outside. The plug has to be against the engine to ground it so it will spark.
When I got my Whizzer recently I couldn't get it to start. My problem was I would pedal down the road & let out the compression release (under the clutch lever) & it wouldn't start. Finally I did it & cranked the throttle open a little & it took off. My problem was that I wasn't giving it gas while I pedaled. Then I had to pull the choke lever up right away. Hope this helps.
Jay
 

jbcruisin

Member
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
688
battery

Sorry. Forgot to tell you. It will start with a dead battery. My battery has been dead since I got the bike. I always wondered what the battery does. Maybe build up enough juice to blow the horn :)
Jay
 

mortiseman

New Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2008
Messages
12
Thanks for the reply.

Well I did exactly what you suggested and I have no spark. I tested it in a semi-dark garage. I know the guy that I purchased the bike from replaced the coil (because I have the old one in a bag) so I am going to rule that out. I have also recently replaced the RH Control Switch Assembly and lastly I moved the main ground to the engine head.

Does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram before I start unplugging things?

Thanks again for your help!!

-MM
 

KilroyCD

Active Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2007
Messages
1,379
Thanks for the reply.

Well I did exactly what you suggested and I have no spark. I tested it in a semi-dark garage. I know the guy that I purchased the bike from replaced the coil (because I have the old one in a bag) so I am going to rule that out. I have also recently replaced the RH Control Switch Assembly and lastly I moved the main ground to the engine head.

Does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram before I start unplugging things?

Thanks again for your help!!

-MM

There is a wiring diagram in the back of the Whizzer Service Manual. If you don't have a copy, private message me and I can send you a scan of that page. If you want to get a copy of the manual, I understand that Whizzer is temporarily out of stock right now. You might try some of the Whizzer dealers on this forum, or perhaps Memory Lane Classics (www.memorylane-classics.com). I'm not sure if they have it, but they usually have a lot of Whizzer literature.
-Chris
 

Quenton Guenther

Well-Known Member
Vendor
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Messages
2,157
After hundreds of requests I agreed to supply a lot of information on the wiring and wiring harness.
Whizzer has offered several different versions of the harness, but the basics remain the same. Often wire colors are changed by one of their vendors, but is usually exchanged with a similar color.
The most common problem is the loss of grounds or the misunderstanding of the 2 ground system. All "black" wires are ground. All "dark green" wires are ground. In order for the motor to fire only a few items are needed. If the battery isn't used [to smooth out the current] several items won't function correctly. The ignition circuit only needs a Coil, CDI, alternator [stator], and the ignition sensor to power the motor. If you use a battery and don't use the AC/DC & regulator modules, the battery will most likely not survive. The horn won't work correctly without the battery. The turn signals & brake light will cause the lights to operate poorly without the battery. Most Whizzer owners leave the key switch on and run the battery down. If the battery is completly down, the motor most likely will not charge the batter up full, and will require charging with a small battery charger. If the ground on the coil is missing the plug will not fire. If the ground on the CDI is missing the plug will not fire. If the kill switch is shorted to the handlebars the plug will not fire. The horn is activated by attaching a ground to the horn [via the horn button]. The key switch shorts the green wire on the CDI to ground when in the off position. The kill switch shorts the green wire on the CDI to ground in the off position. The ignition switch should be used when a battery is used with the complete haness, becuse it allows the lights to work off the battery when the motor isn't running. All orange and light blue wires are for the turn signals. Green wires with a red stripe are usually the brake light system [however I have seen green with a yellow strip used]. If the turn signals don't flash it is most likely in the switch on the left handlebar needs cleaned. Tail light bulbs burn out often if ridden on a bumpy road. the most commonly replaced parts are the tail light bulb, the headlight bulb [special], turn signal flasher, and the coil [broken spark plug cap or wire pulled out of coil body]. Most people that modify the harness have problems with the ground circuits. I have found it easier to hide the extra wires as opposed to removing them. The later wiring harness has a ground circuit in the rear light plug [motor won't fire unless the rear of the harness is plugged in. The following items have a ground... coil [green wire is the ground], CDI [black wire is the ground], regulator [black wire is the ground], AC/DC relay [black wire is the ground] key switch [yellow wire with a red stripe is ground] kill switch [green wire is the ground] battery [black wire is the ground]. The gray wire on the horn is 12V [with motor running or with battery] The horn, flasher, and brake light switches aren't grounded. The 3 wires for the front head light are ground [black wire], and the other 2 are for high and low beam [controlled from the left control assembly. the 3 wires for the tail ight are ground [black wire], tail ight [yellow], and brake light [usually light green with a red stripe]. There are many extra yellow and black wires in the harness to power the guage lights [speedometer & tachometer]. If the fuse is blown the motor will most likely still run, but the lights won't work with the motor off.
It is necessary to connect the green and black grounds together if only using the minmium wiring system.
The current stator is 81 watts and will make the horn work correctly without a battery.

Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton
 

mortiseman

New Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2008
Messages
12
Well I still can not get a spark!

I took off the entire harness to have a look for anything obvious and did not see anything. I took the cover off the kill switch and put a small piece of plastic over the wiring to see if it was shorting on the handlebars and that was not the issue. I created a photo set on flickr.com of the wiring. Do any of you mind taking a look to see if you see something obvious. I am at wits end!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28329791@N07/

Thanks!
 
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