darwin
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 2:18 PM
- Joined
- May 26, 2008
- Messages
- 8,058
Links to eBay may include affiliate code. If you click on an eBay link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
New Vintage Style Walmart Cruiser
- Thread starter twitch0601
- Start date
PocketBiker
Member
Thanks, but the filler cap is not a problem, because, since I will not need the black gas tank that comes with the Flying Horse engine, I will cut it out about 3 inches square. Then, I'll fiberglass it right into the top of my fiberglass tank. Rather than pay the $15 on eBay for a gas cap, I might as well get something out of the kit's gas tank. Fabricating with fiberglass is like a dream come true! But, 75% of fiberglass work is in the finish, and I don't have to put a finish on the tank.....
No one sees it
Links to eBay may include affiliate code. If you click on an eBay link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
Wolfshoes
Member
Here is a link to a similar build with custom tank: http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=32501&page=3
The frame looks to be the same. I am not a big fan of shift kits; but it is one way of keeping the fat greasy 415 chain away from the pretty whitewall tire.
The frame looks to be the same. I am not a big fan of shift kits; but it is one way of keeping the fat greasy 415 chain away from the pretty whitewall tire.
butre
Well-Known Member
Got the 1937 Columbia in today.
I just got it out of the box to check out the 'tank'.
It looks spiffy enough until you dig into it.
It is just to 2 formed sheet metal plates that fit together via one metal screw at the top between the spit top bar, and 2 screws in from each side to a bracket screwed in to the frame via big cutouts on both halves in the tin for the brackets to be on the inside, kind of like a chain guard mount.
There isn't a way to seal that up and make it a gas tank, but it is within a mm or two of allowing it to be packed with 18650 LI cells to make an electric.
I'm not going to **** with electric on this build, I have a couple of high end electric's I need to move, but I now have the perfect template to get a gas tank made that will fit right in there I think and just put a direct drive 4-stroke on it.
I'll let you know how it turns out when I get to it.
I'm envisioning a flexible fuel bladder with a threaded filler neck that you can put inside the faux tank, stick the filler neck out the top, and screw it down with a nut.
I don't know where or even if you can get something like that, but if so it would simplify this sort of build greatly
Sgt. Howard
Active Member
It would seem to me that brazing a strip of steel about 1" wide top/bottom/front/back would give you an extra so much gasoline, create the shape you want and not use enough heat to loose the side art. I have a source of fill necks and caps that I have used (assuming I can find it again) and these braze on as well. Braze "T" nuts for strap bolts to hold onto the frame and use filler lead to solder up the side holes. I have been experimenting with tanks, and brazing is the way to go.
PocketBiker
Member
Tank, inside a tank.....
IMHO..... if you want to simplify your life, build a tank (and probably a much better one) between the fake painted sides..... So much easier...... And, the only way I know of doing it, and a very easy way, is to find some foam, this kind at Lowes,
Expanded Polystyrene Foam Board Insulation (Common: 1-in x 4-ft x 8-ft; Actual: .937-in x 3.875-ft x 7.875-ft) for $12
make a solid foam rectangle (in my case it would be 3 1/2" X 4" X 10" = 140 cubic inches (1/2 gallon tank is only 115 cubic inches) So, this tank size would be slightly larger than than the China tank.
Fiberglass a few layers around the block of foam ..... drill a hole..... pour in acetone which melts out the foam. After cutting out the filler cap from the black tank, cut a 2 inch hole where you want it on the fiberglass tank and fiberglass the metal filler assembly onto the outside of the rectangular tank. After mounting the fiberglass tank on a piece of 1/4" or 3/8" plywood (screwed to the frame bar) lay the Columbia sides up to the sides of the fiberglass tank. And walla solid & custom
You can make the tank longer than my 10" size as the space is actually 20" long, but I thought 140 CI was enough and it would be nice to use the front and rear 5" to store oil and tools, etc. My tank size also makes it necessary to pull out the painted metal sides about an inch. That's fine.... still very narrow. I believe I will again make it easy by building the filler cap on the interior tank and just put a "dummy cap" on the outside? This way, you would drop one painted side down and fill the interior tank and ...... have access to your mixing oil at the same time...........
I gave the dimensions as a square tank... because you are forming around foam, I will actually by tapering my foam sides back in the exact shape of the tank that I want......
In the 1980s I built and flew an airplane built from foam and fiberglass... It's a very comfortable process.
This is a tutorial of a man who shows how to build a more complicated tank... his is finished (lot of work) ours doesn't need to be finished as no one sees it! Easy!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--uLkHGKsgg
IMHO..... if you want to simplify your life, build a tank (and probably a much better one) between the fake painted sides..... So much easier...... And, the only way I know of doing it, and a very easy way, is to find some foam, this kind at Lowes,
Expanded Polystyrene Foam Board Insulation (Common: 1-in x 4-ft x 8-ft; Actual: .937-in x 3.875-ft x 7.875-ft) for $12
make a solid foam rectangle (in my case it would be 3 1/2" X 4" X 10" = 140 cubic inches (1/2 gallon tank is only 115 cubic inches) So, this tank size would be slightly larger than than the China tank.
Fiberglass a few layers around the block of foam ..... drill a hole..... pour in acetone which melts out the foam. After cutting out the filler cap from the black tank, cut a 2 inch hole where you want it on the fiberglass tank and fiberglass the metal filler assembly onto the outside of the rectangular tank. After mounting the fiberglass tank on a piece of 1/4" or 3/8" plywood (screwed to the frame bar) lay the Columbia sides up to the sides of the fiberglass tank. And walla solid & custom
You can make the tank longer than my 10" size as the space is actually 20" long, but I thought 140 CI was enough and it would be nice to use the front and rear 5" to store oil and tools, etc. My tank size also makes it necessary to pull out the painted metal sides about an inch. That's fine.... still very narrow. I believe I will again make it easy by building the filler cap on the interior tank and just put a "dummy cap" on the outside? This way, you would drop one painted side down and fill the interior tank and ...... have access to your mixing oil at the same time...........
I gave the dimensions as a square tank... because you are forming around foam, I will actually by tapering my foam sides back in the exact shape of the tank that I want......
In the 1980s I built and flew an airplane built from foam and fiberglass... It's a very comfortable process.
This is a tutorial of a man who shows how to build a more complicated tank... his is finished (lot of work) ours doesn't need to be finished as no one sees it! Easy!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--uLkHGKsgg
Sgt. Howard
Active Member
Just notice on the WM blurb- alloy wheels, ie ALUMINUM! You MIGHT want something stronger holding your tires...
PocketBiker
Member
Steel vs Alum. rims
I just checked out some other forums on the subject. This was the consensus.....
Quote 1) Steel has been the standard for cheap bikes for a very long time. Weight is a prime factor. In addition, steel rusts.... If you go to someplace where lots of bikes are parked outside for any length of time, like the university where I work, you can pick out the cheap bikes instantly by the nasty rust that starts forming with great speed.
Really cheap bikes have as much steel as possible; even the wheel hubs and such will be made of that material.
Quote 2) Alum. will be lighter, and I think I read somewhere that steel rims get really slick when wet (this is assuming that you are using rim brakes).
Quote 3) The weight of wheels makes a big difference. I notice a huge difference in stopping in the rain on aluminum vs steel.
Quote 4) Alum. wheels are a major, major improvement you can make to an old bike for not much cost. Better braking, especially in rain, and much lighter and faster. Used to be, steel wheels were much cheaper to make than alum. ones. Nowadays, all wheels (basically) are alum, so even cheap alum. ones will be a lot better than steel.
I just checked out some other forums on the subject. This was the consensus.....
Quote 1) Steel has been the standard for cheap bikes for a very long time. Weight is a prime factor. In addition, steel rusts.... If you go to someplace where lots of bikes are parked outside for any length of time, like the university where I work, you can pick out the cheap bikes instantly by the nasty rust that starts forming with great speed.
Really cheap bikes have as much steel as possible; even the wheel hubs and such will be made of that material.
Quote 2) Alum. will be lighter, and I think I read somewhere that steel rims get really slick when wet (this is assuming that you are using rim brakes).
Quote 3) The weight of wheels makes a big difference. I notice a huge difference in stopping in the rain on aluminum vs steel.
Quote 4) Alum. wheels are a major, major improvement you can make to an old bike for not much cost. Better braking, especially in rain, and much lighter and faster. Used to be, steel wheels were much cheaper to make than alum. ones. Nowadays, all wheels (basically) are alum, so even cheap alum. ones will be a lot better than steel.
Wolfshoes
Member
My 10 year old Landrider converted to a motorbike 2 years ago has aluminum rims. I weigh about 181 lbs. The motorbike overall weighs less than 60 lbs. The rims are holding up just fine. No to the question about buying boost bottles. If teenagers on their petal driven Stingrays try to pass, you have to take them on fair & square.
PocketBiker
Member
Boost Bottle ?
But, I'm 61 years old..... in 10 years, I'll be an old man... I need every advantage. Is the boost bottle worth the money? If you buy the manifold and bottle from BikeBerry, it costs $45. I heard of a guy using a Tabasco bottle attached to the upgraded air filter.
But, I'm 61 years old..... in 10 years, I'll be an old man... I need every advantage. Is the boost bottle worth the money? If you buy the manifold and bottle from BikeBerry, it costs $45. I heard of a guy using a Tabasco bottle attached to the upgraded air filter.
