michael whiteman
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 3:04 AM
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2021
- Messages
- 632
Sorry I somehow missed your thread last month Christina. I have the exact same motor and transmission as yours.
Just finished reading all of the 6 pages here and see that you still have not made any real decisions. You must be overwhelmed. I know I was after doing countless hours of online research on this subject. I am building a second bike and for a short time considered torq converters also. You have probably come to see that this change involves a lot of parts and might become rather costly. That being said..........in post #21 Pete asked, what was wrong with the original clutch that made you deside to change? In post #31 Jerry points out the need to add a jackshft. All of us
4 stroke riders stick together and and have figured out how to reliably make a stock clutch work with no problems. The one and only drawback is that the clutch bell is not available. No problem getting the clutch mechanism itself and @Deleted Member 4613 has figured out how to make the bushing issue bullet proof. So, if you still have the orginal clutch bell the fastest and least expensive way to get back on the road would be fix what you've got.
I foolishly deleted all the info I had compiled regarding torq converters last month when deciding to just use a jackshaft. Your motor has a jackshaft. The large sprocket on your belt is connected to it. Converting to a torq converter will necessatate changing the sprocket on your wheel and most likely designing a new jackshaft assy. on your seat post. I apologize Christina if you already know all of this.
Now regarding the drive shaft on your motor. It is 15mm (0.595) straight shaft. This is 0.030 less than 5/8 of an inch. This motor also has a tappered shaft version and you do not want to get them confused because the clutches are not interchangable.
In the post above Nirve has presented the solution to your problem.
K&S Precision Metals, stock no. 9415 is a similar aluminum tube that will shim the shaft to an actual 5/8inch allowing the use of a standard go-kart 5/8 inch clutch. Also available on Amazon for about $16.
If you go forward with this I strongly recommend using a MAX TORQ clutch. Reason is, it's the only one that allows you to change the internal springs. They offer a package of different springs which in turn will allow you to change at what RPM the clutch engages. You really won't know what you need till you ride it and if you bought a generic clutch you're stuck with it. Last time I looked everyone is SOLD OUT. The prices only differ by a couple of dollars between sellers so grab one as soon as you see it.
In the event you give up on the torq converter idea, like I did , take a look at my thread hiding on page 3 in GENERAL DISCUSSION. This is the easiest and most cost effective jackshaft assembly that you could use. You buy all the pieces seperately which gives you an unlimited choice and I will be more than glad to help you choose them if need be. PM me if you have specific question anytime. Best wishes going forward. Don't get discouraged. We're all here to help. m
Just finished reading all of the 6 pages here and see that you still have not made any real decisions. You must be overwhelmed. I know I was after doing countless hours of online research on this subject. I am building a second bike and for a short time considered torq converters also. You have probably come to see that this change involves a lot of parts and might become rather costly. That being said..........in post #21 Pete asked, what was wrong with the original clutch that made you deside to change? In post #31 Jerry points out the need to add a jackshft. All of us
4 stroke riders stick together and and have figured out how to reliably make a stock clutch work with no problems. The one and only drawback is that the clutch bell is not available. No problem getting the clutch mechanism itself and @Deleted Member 4613 has figured out how to make the bushing issue bullet proof. So, if you still have the orginal clutch bell the fastest and least expensive way to get back on the road would be fix what you've got.
I foolishly deleted all the info I had compiled regarding torq converters last month when deciding to just use a jackshaft. Your motor has a jackshaft. The large sprocket on your belt is connected to it. Converting to a torq converter will necessatate changing the sprocket on your wheel and most likely designing a new jackshaft assy. on your seat post. I apologize Christina if you already know all of this.
Now regarding the drive shaft on your motor. It is 15mm (0.595) straight shaft. This is 0.030 less than 5/8 of an inch. This motor also has a tappered shaft version and you do not want to get them confused because the clutches are not interchangable.
In the post above Nirve has presented the solution to your problem.
K&S Precision Metals, stock no. 9415 is a similar aluminum tube that will shim the shaft to an actual 5/8inch allowing the use of a standard go-kart 5/8 inch clutch. Also available on Amazon for about $16.
If you go forward with this I strongly recommend using a MAX TORQ clutch. Reason is, it's the only one that allows you to change the internal springs. They offer a package of different springs which in turn will allow you to change at what RPM the clutch engages. You really won't know what you need till you ride it and if you bought a generic clutch you're stuck with it. Last time I looked everyone is SOLD OUT. The prices only differ by a couple of dollars between sellers so grab one as soon as you see it.
In the event you give up on the torq converter idea, like I did , take a look at my thread hiding on page 3 in GENERAL DISCUSSION. This is the easiest and most cost effective jackshaft assembly that you could use. You buy all the pieces seperately which gives you an unlimited choice and I will be more than glad to help you choose them if need be. PM me if you have specific question anytime. Best wishes going forward. Don't get discouraged. We're all here to help. m
