Question on frame drop out

[Rusty_S85]

You wouldn't normally bolt both the sprocket and the rotor at the same time. You shouldn't need any spacer for the disk brake rotor unless you use a 135 hub in the 150, in which case look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/271445914757

It's a listing for spacers, they can be used to change where the rotor sits on the hub, as in how far away from it.

If you use a 150 hub it should already be manufactured to meet the standard spacings for a disk brake rotor and caliper.

Ah so the hub would have flanges to mount the sprocket and the rotor to and I would just simply leave the sprocket off and just mount the rotor to the flange mount for the rotor.

It is hard to tell in their photos as they are low res and they don't really show much. The diagram doesn't really show much either.

 

[Frankenstein]

From what I see here you'd be buying something you don't need, just get a standard 150mm hub with the disk brake holes and a cassette. This is an overcomplication if you are going with gears.

 

[Rusty_S85]

View attachment 77178

From what I see here you'd be buying something you don't need, just get a standard 150mm hub with the disk brake holes and a cassette. This is an overcomplication if you are going with gears.

So it shouldn't be a problem running a regular old 150mm wheels then? I was looking at this HD set up cause I had planned on getting a ported cylinder and high compression head kit for the 60cc 2 stroke and doing some hot rodding on this engine since this is a weekend toy and not a commuter for me. I was a little concerned regular bicycle hubs might not handle the power or the speeds they would be pushed to.

 

[Frankenstein]

So it shouldn't be a problem running a regular old 150mm wheels then? I was looking at this HD set up cause I had planned on getting a ported cylinder and high compression head kit for the 60cc 2 stroke and doing some hot rodding on this engine since this is a weekend toy and not a commuter for me. I was a little concerned regular bicycle hubs might not handle the power or the speeds they would be pushed to.

Not usually hubs that have a problem with power, it's chains, sprockets, and cheap freewheel mechanisms that do. Spokes only have problems when you hook a sprocket up with a rag joint, otherwise they stay pretty stable.

The hub they have is pretty nifty looking with a counter clockwise freewheel on the left side, would be fun to have a single speed that actually freewheels like that.

I would say a standard 150 will definitely work if going with a shift kit, no need to worry about the hub unless you get a cheap freehub or freewheel.

On that subject, I would recommend a freehub type hub rather than a freewheel type, noticed that freewheels tend to bend axles especially with aggressive riding. This is simply because a freewheel has the bearing farther in on the axle with the chain sitting outside the point where the bearing lies. With a freehub the bearing is near the end of the hub, and so less leverage is placed against the axle while riding from Bumps and strong engine pull. It's easier and cheaper to replace freehub cassettes than it is to replace a complete freewheel.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Thanks for the reply. I was doing some searching and have to say seems like what I am finding is priced higher than the HD wheel set I found.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

So it shouldn't be a problem running a regular old 150mm wheels then? I was looking at this HD set up cause I had planned on getting a ported cylinder and high compression head kit for the 60cc 2 stroke and doing some hot rodding on this engine since this is a weekend toy and not a commuter for me. I was a little concerned regular bicycle hubs might not handle the power or the speeds they would be pushed to.

These hubs, threaded for freewheel cluster are not a good option for a shift kit build (IMHO and I have not tried it and don't even have a running bike yet!), and here's why:
because they are freewheel hubs.

They are not freehubs. There is no cassette.
There is a freewheel cluster or single freewheel sprocket.
A multi-speed freewheel cluster overhangs the bearings that the hub runs on. It isn't supported by its own pair of bearings as a freehub is. That means if you run the multi-speed cluster there's all this weird freaky bending force on the freewheel itself, trying to break it to bits, and a horrible increased force on the main bearings and hub axle which causes bearing failures and bent axles.
It's a horrible system and it's why Shimano techs invented their version of the cassette freehub forty years ago for (puny earthling) human powered bicycles and it's still in use today.
These "HD" wheels are not for shift kit use (IMHO and all that)

Cassette hubs started with only two bearings, some still have only two bearings but the right hand bearing is out near the dropout, making for much better reliability, and now
they can have four or even five sealed bearings along the length of the axle. I would choose something with at least four bearings.

Why is this "HD" hub a huge step backwards in technology?
And what's with the narrow no-name rims anyway?


Oops seems Frankenstein got there first, while I was off doing other things and editing my post to make it more opinionated haha.

 

[Frankenstein]

These hubs, threaded for freewheel cluster are not a good option for a shift kit build (IMHO and I have not tried it and don't even have a running bike yet!), and here's why:
because they are freewheel hubs.

They are not freehubs. There is no cassette.
There is a freewheel cluster or single freewheel sprocket.
A multi-speed freewheel cluster overhangs the bearings that the hub runs on. It isn't supported by its own pair of bearings as a freehub is. That means if you run the multi-speed cluster there's all this weird freaky bending force on the freewheel itself, trying to break it to bits, and a horrible increased force on the main bearings and hub axle which causes bearing failures and bent axles.
It's a horrible system and it's why Shimano techs invented their version of the cassette freehub forty years ago for (puny earthling) human powered bicycles and it's still in use today.
These "HD" wheels are not for shift kit use (IMHO and all that)

Cassette hubs started with only two bearings, some still have only two bearings but the right hand bearing is out near the dropout, making for much better reliability, and now
they can have four or even five sealed bearings along the length of the axle. I would choose something with at least four bearings.

Why is this "HD" hub a huge step backwards in technology?
And what's with the narrow no-name rims anyway?


Oops seems Frankenstein got there first, while I was off doing other things and editing my post to make it more opinionated haha.

Yeah but you filled in the lazy part where I didn't take the time to clearly describe why a freewheel sucks and a freehub doesn't.

Let's just say that there are reasons why freehubs are the new standard for professional and durable bicycles, while the cheesy Walmart box brand bikes get the equally cheesy and cheap technology of yesteryear.

Upgrading now just saves you any number of weeks wasted in misery over picking s**tty parts in the first place and then going through hell just to end up upgrading in the end. Then again you could go through too much and be put off from these bikes forever.

Happy time not for faint of heart.

 

[Rusty_S85]

These hubs, threaded for freewheel cluster are not a good option for a shift kit build (IMHO and I have not tried it and don't even have a running bike yet!), and here's why:
because they are freewheel hubs.

They are not freehubs. There is no cassette.
There is a freewheel cluster or single freewheel sprocket.
A multi-speed freewheel cluster overhangs the bearings that the hub runs on. It isn't supported by its own pair of bearings as a freehub is. That means if you run the multi-speed cluster there's all this weird freaky bending force on the freewheel itself, trying to break it to bits, and a horrible increased force on the main bearings and hub axle which causes bearing failures and bent axles.
It's a horrible system and it's why Shimano techs invented their version of the cassette freehub forty years ago for (puny earthling) human powered bicycles and it's still in use today.
These "HD" wheels are not for shift kit use (IMHO and all that)

Cassette hubs started with only two bearings, some still have only two bearings but the right hand bearing is out near the dropout, making for much better reliability, and now
they can have four or even five sealed bearings along the length of the axle. I would choose something with at least four bearings.

Why is this "HD" hub a huge step backwards in technology?
And what's with the narrow no-name rims anyway?


Oops seems Frankenstein got there first, while I was off doing other things and editing my post to make it more opinionated haha.

Well my problem seems to be finding a spoke wheel then. Every bicycle place I go to online while looking I just find freewheel clusters. I cant find anything built as a freehub. The ones I did find are just the hub by itself which I don't want to attempt to try to assemble my own wheel. The rest I cant even find a 150mm drop out. I found flip flop disc brake wheels but they are 100 and 110 mm nut to nut so I don't even know what those are for but they are listed as for motorized bicycles.

I am trying to buy most of my stuff from Niagara since they seem to have a lot of the parts that I have already picked out such as forks, saddle, handle bars, headset, etc. But their site is useless in my book for trying to narrow down items by specifications. Half of the wheels I found that are 26" doesn't even say what dropout they are ment for.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Yeah but you filled in the lazy part where I didn't take the time to clearly describe why a freewheel sucks and a freehub doesn't.

Let's just say that there are reasons why freehubs are the new standard for professional and durable bicycles, while the cheesy Walmart box brand bikes get the equally cheesy and cheap technology of yesteryear.

Upgrading now just saves you any number of weeks wasted in misery over picking s**tty parts in the first place and then going through hell just to end up upgrading in the end. Then again you could go through too much and be put off from these bikes forever.

Happy time not for faint of heart.

That's why I made this post is to ensure that I get the right parts the first time. I already had to deal with being scammed by a company on this frame and had to put my build off for 2 weeks waiting for my bank to refund my money. So I don't want any more issues to come up. I just cant find what is being talked about that is ready to go that will work for my set up. Only freehubs I found are just plain hubs. I don't mind spending a bit more money but I don't want to attempt to try and build a spoke wheel from pieces.

As of now Ive been on Niagara for about an hour now looking at their wheels trying to find something that will work.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

That's why I made this post is to ensure that I get the right parts the first time. I already had to deal with being scammed by a company on this frame and had to put my build off for 2 weeks waiting for my bank to refund my money. So I don't want any more issues to come up. I just cant find what is being talked about that is ready to go that will work for my set up. Only freehubs I found are just plain hubs. I don't mind spending a bit more money but I don't want to attempt to try and build a spoke wheel from pieces.

As of now Ive been on Niagara for about an hour now looking at their wheels trying to find something that will work.

I am not well versed on the 150mm OLD stuff, I was doing most of my new bike buying back in the days of 135mm OLD, and 26" rims and 1&1/8" head tubes so that's pretty much where my bike parts knowledge begins and ends. However I have a good reason for sticking to those standards. The best deals on used but working parts are in those now-unfashionable standards. There's a lot of cool kids "upgrading" to 29er, 1.5" head tubes and 150mm or 142mm OLD so there's tons of good, heavy, unfashionable stuff available, as long as you're not bothered by someone having ridden on it before you.
150mm will be more expensive and less choice available.

I would buy a hub and rim and take it to a local bike shop (LBS) to have them build it if you're not experienced in wheel building. I'd say it's for an e-bike though, not mention anything about ICE.