Then you go ahead and d.a.m.n well design a better solution that works as an accessory installation on the SickBikeParts shift kit.
Before giving me your solution, please design a better system that's reliable and simple to install, then you can legitimately make claims about my tensioners being overly complicated which in part they were designed to be.
As things stand, i have a system that works; a system that's been working in unchanged format and reliable for the last two years.
Another point of note - the tensioners were not only designed to be functional but to convey a look of complication; adding to the aesthetics of an exposed drive train, hence the reason why the right hand side chain tensioner has two idler wheels and the left hand side tensioner has a large red idler wheel.
Sometimes functional is not enough - it's got to look a bit unique as well.
Be that as it may, please design a set of (reliable) chain tensioners for the SickBikeParts shift kit.
I'm happy to take your criticism after you've made it happen, but until it happens you're just blowing a lot of hot air around the tent.
I know the shift kit makes a difference especially uphill. It is better on the motor and you don't have to pedal to help it as much but usually take off to get the bike going and help the motor. You also gain better speed and it doesn't matter the amount of spokes. I made a few upgrades to mine but mainly needed to create my own tensioner for the right side drive chain which I used the 2 stroke one from SBP and had to get a stronger spring (from a cheap used kickstand) and drill two holes on the side of the motor plate one for the bolt and nut for the front tensioner to fit and not move and one for the spring to connect to the back tensioner to put tension on the chain. But never had any problems with it also looks good and put 100's of miles on it before having to tighten it again. Which it does matter on what you need for where you mount the motor and where the chain lines up.
Fabian is right.... I was a little confused, then I did a search on Loctite. At least 9 different products with different characteristics appeared. Some are high temperature tolerant. Some are for cylinder fittings. Purple and green are for low-strength needs. Red is for permanent fasteners. I have a bottle of 246, but it does not list. So don't get hung up on one number. Read the Loctite site and get smart about their products, then choose between green, purple, and blue. Personally, I am staying away from red Loctite.
By using a mini grinder. Make a cut down through the protruding end of the bolt. And accurately drive a chisel inside of the cut. Precisely bending the protruding end of the bolt outward. And the nut shouldn't be able to work loose.