Schwinn Occ with 70's briggs flathead?

[Cannonball3]

By removing the back of the cam when the valve clearances are reset down cam, the lift is increased on the lobe.
The back side that was removed is now riding in clearance, a non wear area.

 

[Wrench]

By removing the back of the cam when the valve clearances are reset down cam, the lift is increased on the lobe.
The back side that was removed is now riding in clearance, a non wear area.

Yes we all understand
By grinding off material from the back of the cam lobe, the tappets have to be adjusted longer to get the correct valve lash,
Increasing valve lift


You can grind on your cams if you want, But I don't recommend it
If the hardened thin metal surface of the cam lobe has been affected (made softer) by the heat caused by grinding,
Your cam lobes aren't gonna last long.

This is probably why people have their cams professionally reground

 

[GW's Motorized]

Here are some photos of my bike, it is just a project I recently started up, I will have a better way for mointing the engine later, not just angle iron

Sorry about the quality, it is 7:00 over here in Oregon, so it's dark out

 

[DieselTech]

View attachment 166832View attachment 166834View attachment 166835View attachment 166836
Here are some photos of my bike, it is just a project I recently started up, I will have a better way for mointing the engine later, not just angle iron

Sorry about the quality, it is 7:00 over here in Oregon, so it's dark out

If it was me I would trim some of the triangle part of frame out, that's above your cylinder head, the you could slide engine forward & tilt it more towards the back of the bike. Then weld some plate back in where you trimmed the triangle, that way its boxed back in. Plus it will open up your carb & exhaust options.

 

[Chainlube]

By removing the back of the cam when the valve clearances are reset down cam, the lift is increased on the lobe.
The back side that was removed is now riding in clearance, a non wear area.

On a flat head you adjust the valve lash by grinding a little bit off the end of each valve, there are no push rods.

 

[Chainlube]

View attachment 166832View attachment 166834View attachment 166835View attachment 166836
Here are some photos of my bike, it is just a project I recently started up, I will have a better way for mointing the engine later, not just angle iron

Sorry about the quality, it is 7:00 over here in Oregon, so it's dark out

Take the angle iron off and see if it will sit on the bottom tube. From a couple photos it looks like it will, but from others it looks too high.

 

[Wrench]

On a flat head you adjust the valve lash by grinding a little bit off the end of each valve, there are no push rods.

Alot of Flat head small engine valve Lifters don't have adjusting tappets to adjust the valve lash, It's just the lifter
To set the valve lash ya grind off some of the valve stem end

 

[DieselTech]

Or you can set valve lash by grinding the valve tappets/cam followers.

 

[Chainlube]

If it was me I would trim some of the triangle part of frame out, that's above your cylinder head, the you could slide engine forward & tilt it more towards the back of the bike. Then weld some plate back in where you trimmed the triangle, that way its boxed back in. Plus it will open up your carb & exhaust options.

Okay, I just checked the height on my 3hp flathead, clears the plug easily at 12". My OCC has 11 1/2" from bottom tube to cross bar.

 

[DieselTech]

Okay, I just checked the height on my 3hp flathead, clears the plug easily at 12". My OCC has 11 1/2" from bottom tube to cross bar.

I think he has a 5hp flathead by his pics