Hi N8ygn,
You might want to "checK" your sidecover, as it may also use the ball bearing in place of the needle bearing unit.
As you know the "vintage" motors in fact used a "thrust" type spacer to keep the crankshaft centered. The spacers looked like a "Q", and were placed in the groove cast into the side cover. The spacers were as follows: #2034- A=.078", B=.087", C=.096", D=.105", E=.114", #2088- C=.096", D=.105", E=.114", F=.123" and G=.132".
On all my personal new edition motors I made spacers to keep the crankshaft centered.
It is important to note that my understanding of bearings isn't shared with everyone, however my motors never break, so I will continue to apply the theories that I know will work. I also think that the "Low sensitivity to misalignment" feature of the KXM2012 needle bearing is important to reduce the massive stress on the opposite side of the crankshaft. Another reason I prefer the needle bearing is the large amount of surface contact with the end of the crankshaft for additional support.
I guess I am just a victim of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", and rely on American technology. I just can't believe the "vintage" Whizzer company would have used the expensive "Torrington" bearing if in fact the "plain ball bearing" would have worked correctly.
These comments aren't intended to "bash" any person, company, or vendor, just stating what I know to be true.
Have fun,
You might want to "checK" your sidecover, as it may also use the ball bearing in place of the needle bearing unit.
As you know the "vintage" motors in fact used a "thrust" type spacer to keep the crankshaft centered. The spacers looked like a "Q", and were placed in the groove cast into the side cover. The spacers were as follows: #2034- A=.078", B=.087", C=.096", D=.105", E=.114", #2088- C=.096", D=.105", E=.114", F=.123" and G=.132".
On all my personal new edition motors I made spacers to keep the crankshaft centered.
It is important to note that my understanding of bearings isn't shared with everyone, however my motors never break, so I will continue to apply the theories that I know will work. I also think that the "Low sensitivity to misalignment" feature of the KXM2012 needle bearing is important to reduce the massive stress on the opposite side of the crankshaft. Another reason I prefer the needle bearing is the large amount of surface contact with the end of the crankshaft for additional support.
I guess I am just a victim of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", and rely on American technology. I just can't believe the "vintage" Whizzer company would have used the expensive "Torrington" bearing if in fact the "plain ball bearing" would have worked correctly.
These comments aren't intended to "bash" any person, company, or vendor, just stating what I know to be true.
Have fun,
