Staton 3.11 on a GEBE

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by appye, Jul 10, 2008.

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  1. appye

    appye Guest

    Sorry if this question has been answered ... I DID search!

    I am probably going to be using the Staton compact 3.11:1 ratio gearbox on my existing GEBE system. That is, I plan on removing the current GEBE drive and mounting the gearbox right on the mount straps. Anyone know of any caveats? The thing comes with a bracket that seems like it will work once I drill the holes to mate it up to the lower mount strap. Also, what about chain types? What advantages/disadvantages would there be to using #35 versus #40 or #41 chains? ... They do have a 72 tooth chain in #35 which might provide me more flexibility allowing me to attach different drive sprockets for my use, but is there a difference in quality with these two types of chains? What are the differences at all?

    I am able to obtain ratios similar to my current GEBE system using readily available sprockets, so I am pretty sure I should be able to get this to work. I don't want to keep shredding GEBE belts with this beastly GP460 engine.

  2. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    Question Regarding Plastic And Gas

    Am using my water bottle as a back up gas tank -- seems to be breaking down -- small black pieces in tank -- most of our gas tanks are plastic -- do some plastics decompose in gas ?? Happy Riding from - Mountainman
  3. appye

    appye Guest

    Yes, some plastics decompose. Why did yo ask this in my thread?
  4. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    The differences between #35 & #40/#41 is the pitch and width. #35 has a pitch of 3/8th in. and a roller width of 3/16th in. #40 has a pitch of 1/2 in. and a roller width of 5/16th in. #41 is again 1/2 in pitch but has a roller width of 1/4 in. The load that each type of chain can carry varies as well. if you type in roller chain into the product search box at McMaster Carr they have a nice explanation on the various types of chain and the basic specs of each.

    Have you worked out a chain tensioner?

    Last edited: Jul 10, 2008
  5. astring

    astring Member

    look here
  6. appye

    appye Guest

    So the 41 means bigger sprockets than the 35 to achieve the same ratios, right? I am guessing the bigger rollers would mean sturdier and able to take more "punishment" ? I have looket at the mcmaster-carr site and I am still a bit confused here.

    As far as a chain tensioner goes, i was thinking about mounting a bracket right to the mount strap about midway down and putting a gear onto a bearing and shaft or something. I have not worked anything out yet really as this is all just conjecture at the moment.
  7. lennyharp

    lennyharp Member

    a 69 to 72 tooth gear should work. Dave uses #25 or 35 chain for this one and either should work. I am interested in this setup also.
  8. appye

    appye Guest

    Yeah, the more I think about it, I like the idea of using bigger driven sprockets because then I have real flexibility with the drive.

    Dave? Sorry I did not get that reference. Davesmotors? Dave Stanton? David Banner? Cheese?
  9. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    The ratio will be controlled buy the OD's of the driver and sprocket you choose. As an example lets say that a 60t sprocket for #41 chain has a OD of 9 in. the same Dia Sprocket for #35 chain would have 72t The same would apply to the driver. At the link you orginally provided for the sprockets if you compare what they offer for #41 chain 48t, 54t, & 60t, too what they offer for # 35 chain 60t, 66t, 72t I bet the OD's are very close to the same from one to the other.

    Anyway I hope this helps. I went thru alot of the same questions figureing out the Metric Timming Belt Drive train for my project.

  10. appye

    appye Guest

    Heh, I get that it is the actual diameters that really determines the gear ratio, but if you have a 10 tooth driving a 60 tooth, the ratio is still 6:1, regardless of the size of the two sprockets. A 41 setup would just be using two bigger sprockets to achieve the same ratio as a 35 using the same amount of teeth.

    I would still do the ratio calculation based on the number of teeth.

    I am guessing strength is kind of a moot point, since I am talking about a chain versus a belt, but would a 41 setup at 6:1 be considerably stronger than the 35 at the same ratio, simply because it is made of larger pieces?

    You have a timing belt drive that is not a GEBE? You got pictures? Does it use a beefier belt than GEBE? How do you achieve need ratios?

    GP460+GEBE=SHREDDDDD unless you are VERY careful with the way you drive. As it is now, there is NO WAY I would let anyone else get on my bike.
  11. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    Timming Belt Drivetrain

    Yes I'm putting together drivetrain using Metric Timing Belts. photos can be seen at this link The system begins with a clutch from Max-Torque that has a 23t 5mm HTD driver attached to the clutch bell instead of a chain driver. this drives an 86t pulley on a jackshaft that also has a 20t driver that then drive the final 96t rear pulley on the rear hub. The belts are 25mm wide. The larger pulleys are from an outfit called Pfeifer Industries. Based on the HP generated by your engine I'd think that if you wanted to go with a toothed belt drive you would be better served using 8mm HTD rather than 5mm has a full range of pulleys, drivers, and belts that would make such a drivetrain possible. They are a big supplier to the go-kart racing industry.

  12. hello appye thank god i found your post what else do you know about the 3 to 1 staton gb?

    especially where are the output sprockets on the staton website??
  13. ps feel free to post at mine or your post there basically the same :)
  14. appye

    appye Guest

    Yeah, I basically created a new post because I am wanting to mount it on a GEBE. As far as the sprockets, I would get them elsewhere from staton, just because staton does not seem to have much for the driven sprocket as the ratios would be too low. The largest they have is like 40 teeth or something.

    ocsully, that is definately an interesting build. A lot more complicated than what I would want to venture into though at this moment. I like rack mount solutions a lot more because I like that they are more universal in the sense that you can move them from one bike to another pretty easily without too much modification to the bike. Yours will be one serious machine though.
  15. ocsully: agree with appye.. but serious pionts for CUSTOM.

    appye: no probs but what about the output sprocket for the staton gb. any ideas?
  16. appye

    appye Guest

  17. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    I wasn't trying to say that the system I 'm working on was the answer to what you are trying to accomplish. I was trying to point out that there a parts available to keep a belt drivtrain rather than having to switch to chains, if you so desired. 8mm HTD X 20mmwide belt would handle the HP from the 460 motor and putting an 8mm HTD driver on the 3.11 gear box would be simple then all you would need is the approiate size pully for the rear wheel. I'm really partial to the Metric Timing Belt type of drivetrain as they are so much quiter, cleaner and I feel transfer power better than chains. I think that what GEBE offers is a great system but is right at the edge of what a 5mm HTD 9mm wide belt can handle with the motors they offer. When you double the HP the belt becomes a very short lived item.

  18. appye

    appye Guest

    Amen to the teensy belt for a gp460...

    Anyway, I was not saying that your build was a solution to my project, so much as I was complimenting you for your work. I am still considering the idea of a bigger belt and a hub mounted pulley of some kind. I definitely recognize the advantage of belt systems. I will admit that I was not able to get too far with though, as the whole website seems to be a bit incomplete.

    There is one big disadvantage to a belt system that may or may not be such a big deal though. I would think that belts are much more sensitive to misalignment than a chain would be. Flexible chains are designed to be able to work fine when the drive and driven sprockets do not line up perfectly, whereas belts are not. I am thinking that is a big reason my first belt shredded so quickly, because it was not aligned so perfectly, and that put a lot of lateral tension that the belt did not like. Keeping things lined up correctly may not be such a problem with a smaller pulley that is so much closer to the hub though.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2008
  19. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    The Pfeifer web site is not the easiest to navagiate your way aroundr, but there is alot on information there, and if you contact them by either e-mail or phone they are great to deal with and have alot of experience doing custom one off drive systems. The contact people at Pfeifer are eithe Jim Donavan Jr. or Brian. Contact them with a brief discription of what you want to do and they will be more than willing to help. Be sure and mention the HP of the engine you are using. The bulk of the information about what Pfeifer has is located in their Technical section. Here is there listing of what pulleys they have in 8mm HTD The two large pulleys for my project were purchased from Pfeifer and they cost approx $45.00 each. The smaller steel drivers are about $20.00 more. But you can get less expensive drivers from McMaaster Carr
  20. appye

    appye Guest

    hmmm. only 8mm? That does not seem like much of an improvement in strength over the GEBE belt. I am wanting something that is like a solid inch wide or something. I guess I would be getting in the way of the stays with that though...