Suzuki K10 forks and handlebar risers

You have to move the goal posts to be inline with your: budget, skills, time and tools. If you have unrealistic goals, you could get stuck in a forever project that's a frustrating money pit. Move the goal posts to be inline with reality and you get a good project, which is still a money pit but at least it's fun.
These forks are kinda rare. I only found one set on eBay that was in good shape and complete. There are probably more, but they either came with 3/4 handlebar clamps or 7/8. I think most of the NOS ones were set up for 3/4 handlebars. It’s not impossible to get 7/8 bars to fit. Others have also had this issue, so I’m going to do a search and see what their solutions were.
 
It appears there's enough material on the clamps to hog 'em out 1/16". If your former ones cracked, just don't tighten these as much. If you're worried about the handlebars slipping simply drill a small hole through everything and insert a pin. My friend and I are presently dealing with this same issue on his motorcycle.
 
It appears there's enough material on the clamps to hog 'em out 1/16". If your former ones cracked, just don't tighten these as much. If you're worried about the handlebars slipping simply drill a small hole through everything and insert a pin. My friend and I are presently dealing with this same issue on his motorcycle.
Id assume you can get new clamps too if you need.
 
It appears there's enough material on the clamps to hog 'em out 1/16". If your former ones cracked, just don't tighten these as much. If you're worried about the handlebars slipping simply drill a small hole through everything and insert a pin. My friend and I are presently dealing with this same issue on his motorcycle.
I've used small self tapping screws through clamps in a few locations on devices on my handlebars.
 
Heat where it clamps then press it in a bench vice to get the width correct. Use longer fasteners to account for the extra height. Unless the bars are heat treated or aluminum (aluminum is heat treated almost always) it will be fine.
 
Heat where it clamps then press it in a bench vice to get the width correct. Use longer fasteners to account for the extra height. Unless the bars are heat treated or aluminum (aluminum is heat treated almost always) it will be fine.
The top tree is aluminum and the top handlebar clamp is aluminum. If I could find a direct replacement made of steel, I would do that, but I don’t know if the geometry would match up and since most bikes don’t even list fork geometry, even if I measured mine I have no idea how to search for a replacement that would match.
 
The top tree is aluminum and the top handlebar clamp is aluminum. If I could find a direct replacement made of steel, I would do that, but I don’t know if the geometry would match up and since most bikes don’t even list fork geometry, even if I measured mine I have no idea how to search for a replacement that would match.
You're probably not going to want to hear this. I'd take thick 1" ID steel tubing cut it in half and and squeeze it down to fit 7/8" OD tubing. Then I'd weld that to a couple pieces of 1/4" flat plate. After that the flat plate could be cut out to match the original aluminum plate. It'll be a simple matter of putting matching bolt holes in the part you just made. Finally all you'd have to do is clean and polish the part.

Many times we don't have and/or can't get what we need so we have to make it. On my Sidewinder the gas tank mount is a result of welding flat plate to unistrut. Welding flat bar to the rear drop outs is how I was able to mount the rear rack for the engine/gear box. This also allowed me to keep the rear disc brake.

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Since you don't have time to learn how to weld; find a friend who can. This'll make your DIY builds so much easier.
 
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