Thoughts on using coaster brakes with a disc brake up front?

[eclectic cowboy]

I've been running shoes on the front and coaster in the rear for 10k mikes. I wouldn't recommend it to most people, but I am a little strange. I'm a total creature of habit and changing now would probably kill me. I only use the coaster in emergency. Don't try it with anything but a quality coaster. I went Shimano. The huffy coaster was such soft metal it needed repacked and cleaned every couple days. Be sure to maintain it or you will find there's so many tiny metal particles in the grease that the coaster will lock right up. Weirdest thing because when you dismantle it, the grease still feels like grease.

 

[eclectic cowboy]

Biggest thing on these bikes with skinny tires is don't overrun your braking ability. Don't know if I really phrased that right but there's just not enough contact patch on mine to comfortably do a quick stop from 35 +. Always be looking ahead. Plan on that dang light turning red or yellow. Bring your speed down when approaching any situation that can possibly make you need to stop . You have to think for yourself and everyone else on the road.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

I've been running shoes on the front and coaster in the rear for 10k mikes. I wouldn't recommend it to most people, but I am a little strange. I'm a total creature of habit and changing now would probably kill me. I only use the coaster in emergency. Don't try it with anything but a quality coaster. I went Shimano. The huffy coaster was such soft metal it needed repacked and cleaned every couple days. Be sure to maintain it or you will find there's so many tiny metal particles in the grease that the coaster will lock right up. Weirdest thing because when you dismantle it, the grease still feels like grease.

Faster speeds, more weight all means 2 brakes are needed for the shortest stopping distance. Only primarily using a front disc brake means your stopping distance is probably at least 33% further than compared to front and rear disc brakes.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Biggest thing on these bikes with skinny tires is don't overrun your braking ability. Don't know if I really phrased that right but there's just not enough contact patch on mine to comfortably do a quick stop from 35 +. Always be looking ahead. Plan on that dang light turning red or yellow. Bring your speed down when approaching any situation that can possibly make you need to stop . You have to think for yourself and everyone else on the road.

Defensive driving is always a plus for us, so is having good performing equipment. The one element defensive driving doesn't prepare you for is the totally unexpected. This is where good performing equipment can make a big difference.

 

[Gordy]

I've been running shoes on the front and coaster in the rear for 10k mikes. I wouldn't recommend it to most people, but I am a little strange. I'm a total creature of habit and changing now would probably kill me. I only use the coaster in emergency. Don't try it with anything but a quality coaster. I went Shimano. The huffy coaster was such soft metal it needed repacked and cleaned every couple days. Be sure to maintain it or you will find there's so many tiny metal particles in the grease that the coaster will lock right up. Weirdest thing because when you dismantle it, the grease still feels like grease.

You could run a dual pull b4ake levr for front and rear. It would work great because you would still be pulling the same lever, but applying front and rear brakes.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

You could run a dual pull b4ake levr for front and rear. It would work great because you would still be pulling the same lever, but applying front and rear brakes.

With independent braking the rear brake is primarily used for slowing down at the slowest rate.

 

[Deleted member 33057]

Defensive driving is always a plus for us, so is having good performing equipment. The one element defensive driving doesn't prepare you for is the totally unexpected. This is where good performing equipment can make a big difference.

….good performing equipment…

A lot of the eBay disc stuff is not good. It takes quality gear and proper set up.
Even with this.. the disc brakes are engineered to stop a bicycle that weighs less and goes much slower than a motorized bicycle.

I went through a few calipers and set ups before I hit on a set up that was somewhat adequate. You have to be looking way ahead and anticipate developing obstacles.

Many of the guys with fast motorized bikes run pit bike hydraulics.

 

[eclectic cowboy]

Faster speeds, more weight all means 2 brakes are needed for the shortest stopping distance. Only primarily using a front disc brake means your stopping distance is probably at least 33% further than compared to front and rear disc brakes.

Absolutely

 

[eclectic cowboy]

Nothing says pucker like two skinny tires almost locked up, trying to stop. Makes me wish I was on my sidecar rig, although it takes a lot more braking power to stop a half ton hack.

 

[eclectic cowboy]

You could run a dual pull b4ake levr for front and rear. It would work great because you would still be pulling the same lever, but applying front and rear brakes.

Good advice for most, undoubtedly. I'm kinda a nut, and I ride/drive rather odd vehicles. I prefer the brakes seperate but I feel, at least for me, getting the decent brakes working well and keeping everything the same is key. I have a neighbor that restores old bikes, some with the rear brake on left, some on the right. I asked him how he handled that and he said he just goes over the difference with his feet right before leaving the driveway and that sets his mind to the configuration. That would
never work for me, in a pinch I would react like I was riding the one I ride the most. No time to think in an emergency, one can only react.