Water cooled motobike

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That drift maniac dnp freewheel is 34-24-21-18-15-13-11. Not riveted gears they are connected to the center of the hub. It has locking rings in the front and back of the freewheel, and spacers in-between the gears. Can I take the lock ring off and swap individual gears out? I wanna do 34-30-24-18-13-11
 

Sidewinder Jerry

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That drift maniac dnp freewheel is 34-24-21-18-15-13-11. Not riveted gears they are connected to the center of the hub. It has locking rings in the front and back of the freewheel, and spacers in-between the gears. Can I take the lock ring off and swap individual gears out? I wanna do 34-30-24-18-13-11
My 7-speed freewheel is (34,28,24,21,18,15,13). However, my shift kit has a triple chain ring so I'm not doing any significant cross-chaining. This is my shifting pattern:

1(1-3), 2(3-5), 3(5-7).
 

Sidewinder Jerry

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If I remember correctly the 13 and the 11 probably won't be very useful for you. I've used DNP freewheels before and bent the 34 cog.

Here are pictures of the 4-speed 34-16 I built (34,28,22,16). You'd have decent jumps between the gears and less cross-chaining. You might be able to build something similar using a DNP 7-speed 28-13 with your 7-speed 34-11. (34,28,21,15)
16613113256942251027685994357261.jpg

16613110948509137805819679608721.jpg
 

Sidewinder Jerry

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So I went with what I knew and grabbed a new Shimano tourney rear derailleur, that drift maniac 11-34t freewheel and a Shimano altus rapid shifter. Redid all the cabling and now it's shifting perfect and smooth. Changed the 36t chainring to a 30t. So gears are: 8t engine sprocket>47t sprocket>jackshaft>10t sprocket>44t chainring>30t chainring>34-11t freewheel.

Got the right side chain tensioner from sick bike parts and rigged up a left side engine chain tensioner, all good. Even got a Killswitch now. I've been running Amsoil blue synthetic at 30:1, just grabbed some conventional oil to swap out I've read it's better for breaking in the engine.

Took it for another ride today went a couple miles down the hill to the store and back!! No major issues. I was running it wot I know it's not good for break in but the gearing is still a little high, struggled up a couple hills needed a little pedal assist. No flexing on anything very good stress test.

The pump and radiator were doing great dispersing heat. Wrapped the exhaust with fiberglass exhaust wrap and added a shield. Got to push it on a flat had to be around 25-30 mph in 3rd before I was bouncing around had to let back in the throttle, need to swap front fork I have another quill stem Schwinn sidewinder bike with front suspension, that was my first bike.

Waiting a couple days on the tach and speedometer, grabbed a sigma 14.16 bike computer it was a little pricey but it gives mph, avg and max speed, it even gives altitude and gradient, so should be great for tuning 👍.

More stats to come want to take it to the highway and let it fly. Gonna eventually upgrade the battery to a ebike 24v battery they are form fit for a bike frame and I can use a 24-12v converter. Then I can get rid of the rear rack and battery and put the seat down all the way down.

Moderators Note:
I edited this to make paragraphs to make this post more readable rather then having "The Great Wall of China", wall of text, most people on forums tend to ignore walls of unbroken text and could be passing up on a good read only because of this...lol.
The suspension seat post works well on the Sidewinder.
 
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If I remember correctly the 13 and the 11 probably won't be very useful for you. I've used DNP freewheels before and bent the 34 cog.

Here are pictures of the 4-speed 34-16 I built (34,28,22,16). You'd have decent jumps between the gears and less cross-chaining. You might be able to build something similar using a DNP 7-speed 28-13 with your 7-speed 34-11. (34,28,21,15)
View attachment 179183
View attachment 179182

Ok I like the range are there 4 speed shifters available anywhere? I am happy with the shifting system I have other than the range between 1st and 2nd it's just too big of a jump between 34t and 28 and I'm not hitting the top rpm power band I get on flats it's bogged on hills even in first barely made it up a couple of hills. I feel I really just need lower my overall final drive ratio for more torque
 

Sidewinder Jerry

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Ok I like the range are there 4 speed shifters available anywhere? I am happy with the shifting system I have other than the range between 1st and 2nd it's just too big of a jump between 34t and 28 and I'm not hitting the top rpm power band I get on flats it's bogged on hills even in first barely made it up a couple of hills. I feel I really just need lower my overall final drive ratio for more torque
You simply adjust the high screw on the rear derailleur to where it can't shift higher than 4th gear.
 
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My 7-speed freewheel is (34,28,24,21,18,15,13). However, my shift kit has a triple chain ring so I'm not doing any significant cross-chaining. This is my shifting pattern:

1(1-3), 2(3-5), 3(5-7).
I am still a bit confused so if you have a triple ring chain ring plus the chainring connected to the jackshaft so a total of 4 chainrings on the front pedal setup?
 
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