WC1 Questions

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by PunkassGearhead88, Jun 15, 2009.

  1. Hey all,
    New here and I already did an intro.
    I already did a search and could not find any threads that specifically answered my questions,
    First of all I got a 1999 26" WC1 and im well aware about the NE5 conversion. But what I wanted to know is if I can mill the head on my WC1, and if it would benefit me in any ways besides power. Also I was trying to advance the timing on my bike and I couldnt get the cover off. I tried many different allen keys and torque bits and anything that came close seemed like would want to round the bolts.
    Thanks in advance!

  2. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Welcome and congratulations on the purchase of a Whizzer. The help you can get here will go a long way towards keeping it running strong for you.
    First the cover screws on my 2000 WC-1 are phillips head screws. I know some of the newer ones are metric allen screws.
    You can get more power out of a WC-1 engine but it comes at a price. The WC-1 cylinders don't like heat. Heat will kill it. The valve seats have a bad habit of separating from the cylinder if the engine is exposed to high heat. Unfortunately the mods that increase the power on these engines also increase heat. If you want the engine to last, keep it stock and don't idle it for long periods of time. I'm not even sure you can mill a WC-1 head. I'm sure Rif or Quenton or Bill Green will be able to give you that info. I know you can take .070 off an NE5 head but I don't know about the WC-1. Best of luck with your Whizzer.
    Enjoy the ride.
  3. Hey thanks, for the info Kryton,
    Maybe I need to get my eyes checked, as I swore they were allen bolts on the side cover, what about advancing the timing on my WC1, can I do that without causing excessive heat? If so how can it be done, thanks.
  4. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Yes go ahead and advance the cam timing 1 tooth CCW. That will only help and hot cause a heat problem.
  5. Ok, to advance the timing, I got to take that cover off the motor (on the crank sprocket or right side of the bike, however you want to say it) that was the one I was reffering to earlier, not the cover for the belt. I cant find the right size allen key for it, I just went and double checked that and it is in fact an allen bolt. So if you, or anyone can help me by telling me what size allen key it would take and how to advance the timing on that WC1 motor, the help would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Oh BTW when I say advance the timing I mean moving the cam gear, not electronically.
  7. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Yes I did know what you mean. The allen screws are metric. Unfortunately I am in a hotel room on the road again so I can not check the screws I have to determine the correct size. If you also wanted to advance the ignition timing here is a how to.
    That will advance the timing from 14 to 23 degrees before top dead center.

  8. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi 88,

    Some of the early production WC-1s used allen screws to hold the sidecover on. It is next to impossible to remove them without damage. The metal is soft and the allen wrench will just round out the head of the screw. Place masking tape aorund the screw and use a punch to remove the screw. Another way is to drill out the head center, but don't forget to use the masking tape to avoid scratches on the side cover. Once the screws are removed, either convert to phillip head or order quality replacement allen screws.

    Advancing the camshaft will not shorten the life of your WC-1 motor, whereas advancing the ignition timing can raise the operating temp. and possibly shorten the life of the cylinder.

    My advice is to upgrade to the NE cylinder status as soon as possible to avoid price increases or hard to find parts.

    Have fun,
  9. Hey Quenton,
    Thanks a whole lot for your info! You definately know your Whizzers! When you say drill out the centers, do you mean using a like a bolt extractor?
    Also I have another question for you, when I take off from a stop and I use my clutch it makes a lot of noise, sounds like the belt is slipping, but could it be anything else?
    Thanks again in advance!
  10. Im bringing this thread up again because im having more problems, first of all my taillight is not working, my brake light works fine and so does my headlight. Its not the bulb I already checked that, could there be a fuse or a ground I need to check? Also everytime I take off from a stop I hear a loud squealing noise that sounds like it could from the belt, I tried dressing and the belt looks tight, any ideas as to what that can be?
    Hopefully some one could chime in on this thread..
  11. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    I have a Whizzer wiring schematic I can send you if you PM me with your e-mail address. It's in the form of a .pdf file. Also, that squealing you hear is from the belt, and usually from the primary (or so I have found). Careful adjusting will keep the squealing from being too obnoxious, and while you're at it you might want to invest in a higher quality belt if it has the original equipment belt on it. I use a Gates AX-27 belt on mine, and even so it's singing like Beverly Sills when I start out due to the fact it's slightly out of adjustment.
  12. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi 88,

    Sorry I haven't responded sooner, but I have been in my shop approx. 18 hours a day trying to make all the parts needed to take to the big event in Portland, IN next week.

    Some of the late model Whizzers use a different wire harness, but the most common problem is located at the plug in for the rear tail light assembly. I have seen a couple with the wires reversed at the plug. You should be able to locate the correct wire from the schematic drawing to find the 12 volts [with the key switch on and a charged battery] to power the tail light. All the wires at the rear include the orange & blue for the turn signals, the black wires are the grounds, the yellow wire is the tail light power, and the green wire is for the brake light.

    If the bike has the manual clutch suspect the smaller front belt, however the pulley can also slip on the larger belt if not adjusted correctly. If the clutch is an automatic the noise can be comming from the bearings in the clutch [not a good thing], and should be rebuilt right away to prevent more damage & cost.

    Have fun,
  13. Thanks for the info Kilroy and Quenton, Kilroy im gonna send you a PM as I would appreciate the wiring schematic. Update I loosen the motor mounts and moved the motor as far forward as possible. Well, now the noise is gone but, whats even worse now when I come to a stop and pull the clutch lever the bike just dies it feels like it just doesnt want to grip.. I dont know how I made it worse???? Im confused here..