Well, she's about to blow at 2,238 miles

[ZnsaneRyder]

I could understand why someone would run cheap oil in an old car with an old worn engine that drinks oil often..........I've done it myself.

However, these little bike motors take such a small amount of oil, so why not get the better oil?

In my big 196cc 6.5HP engine, just over half a quart is an ENTIRE OIL CHANGE, good for a month, and only add a small amount of oil every so often, but I can use up much more oil than that in an old car every week just to keep the oil level proper.

I used 10W-40 Castrol GTX on my first two oil changes, then 10W-40 GTX high-mileage on the 3rd oil change, and have had great results. Costs about $3 a quart, which is super cheap for a month's worth of oil. And I run my motor hard and beat on it a lot and use full throttle every day very often, and have flipped the bike at over 30mph and got gas in the oil once, just changed the oil, and it still runs like new.

And it's a cheap Chinese Lifan engine.

 

[Simonator]

well, its up to 2,283 miles and still running. That is 45 miles since the problem started. Tonight I am going to pick up that 70cc kit for $75

 

[Simonator]

Hi Simonator,do you know:
a) the internal reduction of your engine?
b) the size of your front sprocket ?,then I'll tell you what your rpm is at around 21 mph.

The front sprocket is a standard 10 tooth. I don't understand what internal reduction is.

 

[duivendyk]

internal reduction

The overall reduction needed between the crankshaft and the rear wheel of a bike engine is in the range of 15-25 (less for larger engines,more for smaller ones).This cannot be done with a single stage reduction.For instance with your 4 to 1 reduction ( 40 t rear sprocket and your 10t front one) you need additional gear (or chain) reduction in the range of 4-6.So most engines have a built in gear reduction in that range.I don't know what you engine has.Let's guess at 5,then your overall reduction R is 20
(4*5).Assuming a 26' wheel your speed can be computed from:
S= 0.075*(rpm)/R, S is road speed in mph, rpm is engine speed, rev/min, R is overall reduction.Lets assume you run at 5000rpm and R=20 ,we get:
S= 0.075* 5000/20 or S=18.75 mph.If we assume R= 4.5 we get S= 0.075 5000/18 and S=20.8 mph.
So if you can find out what the reduction between the crankshaft and the engine output sprocket is, you can figure out the road speed for different engine revs.The example I gave is for a reduction of 5. I hope this is clear.

 

[dwsutton]

The overall reduction needed between the crankshaft and the rear wheel of a bike engine is in the range of 15-25 (less for larger engines,more for smaller ones).This cannot be done with a single stage reduction.For instance with your 4 to 1 reduction ( 40 t rear sprocket and your 10t front one) you need additional gear (or chain) reduction in the range of 4-6.So most engines have a built in gear reduction in that range.I don't know what you engine has.Let's guess at 5,then your overall reduction R is 20
(4*5).Assuming a 26' wheel your speed can be computed from:
S= 0.075*(rpm)/R, S is road speed in mph, rpm is engine speed, rev/min, R is overall reduction.Lets assume you run at 5000rpm and R=20 ,we get:
S= 0.075* 5000/20 or S=18.75 mph.If we assume R= 4.5 we get S= 0.075 5000/18 and S=20.8 mph.
So if you can find out what the reduction between the crankshaft and the engine output sprocket is, you can figure out the road speed for different engine revs.The example I gave is for a reduction of 5. I hope this is clear.

whew, that's a whole lotta math there pardner..... I like my speedometer - LOL

david

 

[duivendyk]

Hardly, just one simple straightforward formula to plug some numbers into.Any real math was in deriving it.You can spend your time playing around, trying different sprockets,a time consuming exercise, also known as "trial and error".Whatever turns you on.

 

[arceeguy]

Why not disassemble your current engine and find out what is wrong with it before it "blows up"? Seems to me that replacement parts are readily available online and on eBay.

Well, here is my problem. As soon as I pull the motor off, I am back to pedaling everywhere I go I can't have that! I have been limping it around town. I am not sure what I am going to do. I might try to rebuild my spare motor. I am going to run a better quality oil in my next motor. I been using cheap super tech oil from the Wal-Mart because I am broke.......

I can relate to that! I've driven cars with knocking rods, slapping pistons, and loose wrist pins to get to work. Hopefully, you'll get that new engine in service and fix whatever is wrong with your current engine and have a spare.

As far as oil goes, I recommend a good synthetic. Any power sports dealer will have a few choices. Personally, I do not recommend castor oil blends because of the carbon and varnish deposits. Castor oil shows its merits at conditions that a "Happy Time" engine should never see, but a competition dirt bike "may" see from time to time. Dirt bike racers tear down engines quite frequently, so the long term effects of castor oil aren't a concern.

Happy riding!

 

[Simonator]

Well, I met up with the guy and bought the engine kit. It was a 24 mile round trip. I made it!! I can't believe the motor held up! I took it real slow on the way there... about 13 mph the whoel way. I took it easy on the way home until I was about half way home. I was getting impatient, so I opened it up and went over 20 mph the rest of the way home. That was the ultimate torture test. The kit I bought looks great! I can't wait to install it! It even has the upgraded steel intake manifold.

 

[BlueCollarBikes]

Yep got one summer out of my board tracker with a happy time then saved my penniesfor a while and bought a Whizzer.

Don't get me Wrong
Whizzers May Be neat And nostalgic,
But Personally I think They are a bit Expensive For what you get.
For the Whizzers asking Price You could buy A Motorcycle.
May not be A American made motorcycle But from what i hear neither is the whizzer anymore.( but i could be wrong)

I have had Many conversations With some wonderful Whizzer Owners regarding the topic and price .
And most state they always wanted a whizzer When they where A kid but never had the funds to purchase one.
now that they are older and have extra time and extra money
they are able to feel a void they always had .

And i can definitely respect that.

I guess its Kinda like me Buying Older AMF harleys .

The AMF Harleys are not really American made but It sure doesn't matter when I'm in the wind

cheers

Bob

 

[Simonator]

Well, I am officially a retard.

The motor is fine. when I was getting ready to remove the motor i noticed the front mount was loose. I didn't know it was loose because i grabbed the motor and tested for side to side play. It was very little. However, there was alot of up and down play that I did not notice.. I should have put a wrench on it to make sure. Instead I jumped to the conclusion that the motor was bad. Oh well. At least I have a spare motor for when this one goes.