Which type of bolt for sprocket?

[INTP_ty]

So I'm on my first week with my china girl & everything is going as planned. I snapped 4 bolts [so far]. Three on the rear sprocket & one on the muffler tip [Hodgetwins joke].

Is all stainless hardware grade 5?

What is the recommended hardware? I'm hoping to get something a little better than what was supplied ...whatever that was.

 

[crassius]

4,8 grade comes with kit - 8.8 is good replacement - 10.9 seems overkill

 

[Frankenstein]

I replace with quarter inch bolts, I think the Chinese pot metal they use to make cylinders is the same stuff they make the bolts from but with a few more handfuls of iron dust they scraped off the bottom of a rusty boat.

I've snapped more bolts on those rag mounts than I can count with stock hardware, even with a torque wrench half will strip on the same exact setting that the other 4 or 5 will tolerate.

I use stainless and just about anything I have in size 1/4 20 since I rarely buy that size in under grade 5 (which is apparently the metric equivalent of 8.8)

 

[Steve Best]

The stock bolts are metric 6mm which is slightly smaller than 1/4" (6.25mm).
The strength grades inch/metric are measured with different scales.
As stated above, Grade 5 / 8.8 is a very good automotive grade bolt.
Yes stainless is available in different grades but cost goes up with grade.
Stainless has a tendency to gall or stick. Always good to use some anti-seize on it.

I have had great luck with standard metric M6 8.8 bolts and nuts.

 

[Frankenstein]

The stock bolts are metric 6mm which is slightly smaller than 1/4" (6.25mm).
The strength grades inch/metric are measured with different scales.
As stated above, Grade 5 / 8.8 is a very good automotive grade bolt.
Yes stainless is available in different grades but cost goes up with grade.
Stainless has a tendency to gall or stick. Always good to use some anti-seize on it.

I have had great luck with standard metric M6 8.8 bolts and nuts.

I only replace at that size because I use it so often I've got tons of them laying around in many sizes including lock nuts by the boxes...

If I had a good supply of quality m6 laying around I'd use those, I happen to have more 7/16th wrenches laying around than 10mm so my preference usually sways onto whatever I can get a matching pair of wrenches for faster...

 

[Steve Best]

You Americans... So SAE...
Or should I say: so imperial...

 

[crassius]

I am dissatisfied with the flange nuts with tiny locking tabs inside that come with the kits - I went to 'mr metric' and ordered a 1000 nyloc style nuts for these really cheap.

 

[butre]

The stock bolts are metric 6mm which is slightly smaller than 1/4" (6.25mm).
The strength grades inch/metric are measured with different scales.
As stated above, Grade 5 / 8.8 is a very good automotive grade bolt.
Yes stainless is available in different grades but cost goes up with grade.
Stainless has a tendency to gall or stick. Always good to use some anti-seize on it.

I have had great luck with standard metric M6 8.8 bolts and nuts.

stainless doesn't gall, it friction welds. lubing the bolt before you install it solves that problem. you can use antiseize, vaseline, motor oil, anything that'll create a barrier between the two stainless surfaces.

of course if you want it to friction weld for the ultimate loctite, you can clean them off with acetone, just know that taking it off is gonna involve breaking the heads off the bolt.

 

[Frankenstein]

stainless doesn't gall, it friction welds. lubing the bolt before you install it solves that problem. you can use antiseize, vaseline, motor oil, anything that'll create a barrier between the two stainless surfaces.

of course if you want it to friction weld for the ultimate loctite, you can clean them off with acetone, just know that taking it off is gonna involve breaking the heads off the bolt.

That actually sounds somewhat useful for certain things, and explains a few things I may have brought on myself...

Locktite should prevent it right? Maybe not? I think I had a few that just went and snapped anyway while taking apart after a month or two.

 

[butre]

That actually sounds somewhat useful for certain things, and explains a few things I may have brought on myself...

Locktite should prevent it right? Maybe not? I think I had a few that just went and snapped anyway while taking apart after a month or two.

loctite prevents it too, yes, but you gotta really slop it on.

stainless parts friction welding together is a big problem in industry, especially if an apprentice assembles it not knowing that it's an issue. if you manage to break a stainless fastener off in a stainless part because it friction welded itself in, just bin the part. only way it's coming out is to drill and tap new holes, and a full day of downtime is the last thing you want on a production line.