White wire lighting system



ok, it's time to define the white wire lighting.

the value of the white wire output is listed as 6V/3W, in don't have a meter to check it.

i've successfully run the engine with a single 6V/2.4W bulb, but it blows the bulb fairly quickly.

i can't get the engine to spark at all with any 2 bulbs in place.

i need somone who can discuss this in layman's terms:

what value (V/W/A) bulb is really needed if i want to successfully run 1 bulb? 2 bulbs?

i suspect the output surges at times...is the surge a matter of amps or watts? is there something i can cheaply wire inline to limit/regulate the surge?

is it doable to use a 12V/3W bulb to resist blow-out?

who's having consistent luck with white-wire lighting, and what are you using/doing?


i took the light from my genator and put it to my motor works better and its safer i threw that genator out


About lighting

Use a 7.5v .5 A bulb. Put spark plug gap around 15 thousands. You should be ok..Turn on light after motor is warmed up. You can run one bulb. That is all. Since the Generator and the CDI share the same Mag, too much current draw will prevent spark. For the best and brightest lighting, Get a super bright LED light and place nicads into the light. Build a Zener Voltage regulator and use the white wire to keep you nicads charged up for night riding. If you do not want to use the white wire for charge, then get a generator that rides your wheel and connect that to your Zener VR and use that to keep your system charged . Enjoy... I may start building my own Zener VR for these and sell them if no one else will..That is..If I can find the time to build more..Thanks again..Enjoy the ride.. thatsdax !!!!


it was the gap adjustment that did it...thanks, dax.

right now, it's starting and running with a 6V/3W bulb, i'll be getting a 7.5V replacement later today, but i'll hold off and see how the long the 6V lasts.

ok, i checked out the zener regulator technology...

is anyone willing to post an exact and detailed diagram of how to home-build one for the chinese engine? for me, that would mean no formulas, just simple "use this part #, and connect it this way" instructions. i'm still looking and i'll post what i find, but i'm no electrical engineer by a long shot.

anyone got the info we could all make use of? it'd be greatly appreciated 8)


dont bother with a 6v light, there not even bright enough to see anything.
go get a 12v 5amp battery (which are about 15$) next get a 20watt halogen light bulb (6$) and also a charger (20$) you will be able to see everything at night. just my suggestion


like l said,augidog you'll be able to see alot at night and cars will be able to see you, safety 1st right, plus it's not that expensive.


ok, makes sense...but let's say even that system is still outta my budget...and being seen/safety first is the bare minimum i'm after here, i know the white wire can provide that.

does that halogen bulb fit in the same socket? will that system support taillight as well? any way to use the white wire to recharge the battery?

i also don't want to end this topic: will someone please help me to develop a white-wire system (or use white-wire for charging a halogen system) through use of the zener regulator?


The available current from the white wire is miniscule. IMO it was designed as a kill switch wire and only later did someone figure out that a small bulb could be powered without killing the engine. If there was more room under the cover plate on the engine, a lighting coil could be added.

If you want a good bright dependible system, do something like azvinnie did, and perhaps use a wheel generator to charge the battery. A bridge rectifier could be used to change the AC output of the wheel generator to DC to charge the battery.



Here's what my friend the electrical engineer had to say to me about this:

"The LED solution should be pretty easy. Since the LED lights don't draw much current (amps), the easiest solution for charging the LED supply battery would be with a single chip voltage regulator IC. For instance, if your LED supply was from 3.5 to 5 volts, you could use a 7805. This IC would regulate the output to 5 volts. I believe the maximum output is 1 amp if mounted on a heat sink. Based on the first post, it looks like your generator can only supply about 0.5 amps without robbing from the engine spark system. A bright LED light draws way less tha 0.5 amps. Each LED probably draws aroung 1/10th that amount. You could have a 10-LED array and still draw less that the original 6V/3W lamp.

LEDs can operate over a fairly wide input voltage without damage. If you only wanted them to light while the engine was on, you could possibly dump the extra battery and regulator. Just run them directly off the generator like the original incandecent bulb."

Just thought i'd throw that out there as more food for thought...


that's helpful...

does your friend feel like maybe putting together a layman's diagram i can work from?