White wire lighting system

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by gone_fishin, Mar 30, 2007.

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  1. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    ok, it's time to define the white wire lighting.

    the value of the white wire output is listed as 6V/3W, in don't have a meter to check it.

    i've successfully run the engine with a single 6V/2.4W bulb, but it blows the bulb fairly quickly.

    i can't get the engine to spark at all with any 2 bulbs in place.

    i need somone who can discuss this in layman's terms:

    what value (V/W/A) bulb is really needed if i want to successfully run 1 bulb? 2 bulbs?

    i suspect the output surges at times...is the surge a matter of amps or watts? is there something i can cheaply wire inline to limit/regulate the surge?

    is it doable to use a 12V/3W bulb to resist blow-out?

    who's having consistent luck with white-wire lighting, and what are you using/doing?

  2. jeffspeeder

    jeffspeeder Guest

    i took the light from my genator and put it to my motor works better and its safer i threw that genator out
  3. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    what's the specific rating of the bulb you're using?
  4. thatsdax

    thatsdax Guest

    About lighting

    Use a 7.5v .5 A bulb. Put spark plug gap around 15 thousands. You should be ok..Turn on light after motor is warmed up. You can run one bulb. That is all. Since the Generator and the CDI share the same Mag, too much current draw will prevent spark. For the best and brightest lighting, Get a super bright LED light and place nicads into the light. Build a Zener Voltage regulator and use the white wire to keep you nicads charged up for night riding. If you do not want to use the white wire for charge, then get a generator that rides your wheel and connect that to your Zener VR and use that to keep your system charged . Enjoy... I may start building my own Zener VR for these and sell them if no one else will..That is..If I can find the time to build more..Thanks again..Enjoy the ride.. thatsdax !!!!
  5. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    it was the gap adjustment that did it...thanks, dax.

    right now, it's starting and running with a 6V/3W bulb, i'll be getting a 7.5V replacement later today, but i'll hold off and see how the long the 6V lasts.

    ok, i checked out the zener regulator technology...

    is anyone willing to post an exact and detailed diagram of how to home-build one for the chinese engine? for me, that would mean no formulas, just simple "use this part #, and connect it this way" instructions. i'm still looking and i'll post what i find, but i'm no electrical engineer by a long shot.

    anyone got the info we could all make use of? it'd be greatly appreciated 8)
  6. azvinnie

    azvinnie Guest

    dont bother with a 6v light, there not even bright enough to see anything.
    go get a 12v 5amp battery (which are about 15$) next get a 20watt halogen light bulb (6$) and also a charger (20$) you will be able to see everything at night. just my suggestion

    like l said,augidog you'll be able to see alot at night and cars will be able to see you, safety 1st right, plus it's not that expensive.
  7. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    ok, makes sense...but let's say even that system is still outta my budget...and being seen/safety first is the bare minimum i'm after here, i know the white wire can provide that.

    does that halogen bulb fit in the same socket? will that system support taillight as well? any way to use the white wire to recharge the battery?

    i also don't want to end this topic: will someone please help me to develop a white-wire system (or use white-wire for charging a halogen system) through use of the zener regulator?
  8. Hugemoth

    Hugemoth Guest

    The available current from the white wire is miniscule. IMO it was designed as a kill switch wire and only later did someone figure out that a small bulb could be powered without killing the engine. If there was more room under the cover plate on the engine, a lighting coil could be added.

    If you want a good bright dependible system, do something like azvinnie did, and perhaps use a wheel generator to charge the battery. A bridge rectifier could be used to change the AC output of the wheel generator to DC to charge the battery.

  9. uncle_punk13

    uncle_punk13 Guest

    Here's what my friend the electrical engineer had to say to me about this:

    "The LED solution should be pretty easy. Since the LED lights don't draw much current (amps), the easiest solution for charging the LED supply battery would be with a single chip voltage regulator IC. For instance, if your LED supply was from 3.5 to 5 volts, you could use a 7805. This IC would regulate the output to 5 volts. I believe the maximum output is 1 amp if mounted on a heat sink. Based on the first post, it looks like your generator can only supply about 0.5 amps without robbing from the engine spark system. A bright LED light draws way less tha 0.5 amps. Each LED probably draws aroung 1/10th that amount. You could have a 10-LED array and still draw less that the original 6V/3W lamp.

    LEDs can operate over a fairly wide input voltage without damage. If you only wanted them to light while the engine was on, you could possibly dump the extra battery and regulator. Just run them directly off the generator like the original incandecent bulb."

    Just thought i'd throw that out there as more food for thought...
  10. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    that's helpful...

    does your friend feel like maybe putting together a layman's diagram i can work from?
  11. npk1977

    npk1977 Guest

    All -

    Power (watts) = Voltage (volts) x Current (amps)

    So, if the magneto outputs 6W at 6V, the maximum output current you can draw is 1A.

    Why do I mention this? Because the power of a lamp is directly related to the brightness. It is more meaningful to quote Power (watts) rather than voltage or current.

    It is also important to remember that a magneto's output is time variable, it's AC rather than DC. An LED expects constant voltage. The 7805 Voltage regulator will not work with an AC voltage source, and in fact, a 7805 does not regulate 6V to 5V anyways :)

    It sounds to me as if someone (like me) could design a circuit that would take the magneto output, rectify it, clean it, and pump it to something like a 5W LED:
    The LED costs $20, imagine all the parts for the circuit would cost ~ $30, the hardware to mount the thing might cost another $20, so an LED system run off the magneto might cost ~$50. Would people be willing to pay that much?

    If only I could get my bike working! I'm more of an electronics guy rather than mechanical guy. (But you can help me by looking at my post in this forum ;)

    If you do plan to connect something to your magneto, remember that it must be able to handle AC. A regular light bulb, for example, can handle AC just fine.

  12. jeffspeeder

    jeffspeeder Guest

    sorry havent been on in a few days im in the hospital sucks!!! but my light is a 5v i think it works fine on mine.
  13. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    here's where i'm at:

    ngk b6hs gapped at .030 starts and runs great, but won't start with 6V light wired in.

    gapped at .015 will start and run with 6V bulb, but very difficult starting and low performance.

    i've been given some old junk switches & i'll wire one in sometime today...gonna try starting with .030 gap, then turning on light.

    my dream system: the 12V battery/halogen setup 'vinnie described, but taillight also, with a white-wire recharge.
  14. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    wired a switch in, had to reduce the gap to approx .020 & bump the idle a bit before it wouldn't stall, but i have a white-wire headlight that works!

    the reduction in performance is minimal.

    yes, it's a bit dim for night riding, but it does make me visible, even in the daylight 8)
  15. jeffspeeder

    jeffspeeder Guest

    ya the motor seems not to start as easy as it did before i hooked it up
  16. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    the switch is great...as dax suggested i wait til the engine's warmed up before i turn on the light.
  17. jeffspeeder

    jeffspeeder Guest

    so u got a switch that gose from ur motor to ur light?
  18. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    yup, just wait for the engine to warm up, then turn the light on, it works great.
  19. jeffspeeder

    jeffspeeder Guest

    ok what type of swith should i use and whare can i get it?
  20. Guest

    Guest Guest

    DC 6-12v switches can be had a Radio Shack for a couple dollars or less.