Will i be able to motorize this bike?

Recommend a frame for a 6’ 4” guy that weighs 250lbs.
I like the Micargi Pantera 7S for a beach cruiser. Nice steel frame and dual V brakes.
~$300

2_pantera2Sdd19R-1280.jpg


Rear sprocket is a breeze, the hole matches the hub perfect.
I sold ~30 of these priced at $620 as they do a pretty good job commuting in the Phoenix area year round.
 
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Surly make mountain bikes (and other sorts of bikes) in a wide range of sizes, and 4130 cromoly. :)
Surly are like $1500 bikes. I can buy a used Honda Ruckus and 3 years of insurance for that price. The 2 stroke vibration would probably destroy the frame anyway.

I want to build a MB for cheap transport, 6 miles round trip a week.
 
Surly are like $1500 bikes. I can buy a used Honda Ruckus and 3 years of insurance for that price. The 2 stroke vibration would probably destroy the frame anyway.

I want to build a MB for cheap transport, 6 miles round trip a week.
You said recommend a frame for a 6'4" guy who weighs 250lb. Surly bikes have been used for RTW ('round the world) fully loaded touring and for bikepacking too. The range of frame sizes offered is decent because the fit matters.
ICE engined helicopters' chassis are made out of 4130 cromoly, it can take a few vibrations.
You might find a frame that's used?

If you are only looking for transport, why the ultra-compact mountain bike you first linked? Do you want a mountain bike, a road bike or a beach cruiser? Frame or whole bike?
Maybe look for alloy bikes from the Giant factory (Giant, Trek, Specialized) that's what I got, cheap and used, but I only kept the frame. I don't think the little two-stroke engine vibrates much if you do a decent job of building it.

(I don't find it especially cheap to build a unique experimental custom motor-bicycle that's safe and reliable either. I'm not surprised it costs more than a used mass produced scooter)
 
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You said recommend a frame for a 6'4" guy who weighs 250lb. Surly bikes have been used for RTW ('round the world) fully loaded touring and for bikepacking too. The range of frame sizes offered is decent because the fit matters.
ICE engined helicopters' chassis are made out of 4130 cromoly, it can take a few vibrations.
You might find a frame that's used?

If you are only looking for transport, why the ultra-compact mountain bike you first linked? Do you want a mountain bike, a road bike or a beach cruiser? Frame or whole bike?
Maybe look for alloy bikes from the Giant factory (Giant, Trek, Specialized) that's what I got, cheap and used, but I only kept the frame. I don't think the little two-stroke engine vibrates much if you do a decent job of building it.

(I don't find it especially cheap to build a unique experimental custom motor-bicycle that's safe and reliable either. I'm not surprised it costs more than a used mass produced scooter)
This isn’t my thread, but KCvale said don’t use a cheap toy to build a motored bicycle. I was asking him to recommend a bicycle frame.

Everyone builds a motor bicycle for different reasons. Mine is cheap transport and to have fun tinkering with a 2 stroke motor. I basically use my pocket change for this hobby.

$1500 is too much for me to invest in something I ride 6 miles a week. I already own a Harley and two cars. My Harley is a 1972 Sportster 1000 that I paid $1300 for.

If I was driving back and forth to work, 200+ miles a week, I’d buy a Surly.
 
I will defend the cheap Walmart bikes a little here... I have used and seen reviews of Walmart or Wally World bikes for a while. I have a 4-stroke on a $60 Wally bike and a 500W electric bike on a $100 Wally bike (though really worth $75 tbh). I am impressed with the $100 bike; I have in the last 2 months road it close to 1,500 miles with a 130 mile longest ride. The only critical failure is the front derailleur because it is not secured on a boss like on better bikes, but I just keep it on the 2nd gear permanently on the pedal crank gear. This is actually a true figure as I am trying to get back into shape and have gone from 2-3 mile pedaling (fatigue) to 30-40 mile pedaling (little effort) with the training help of the electric motor (help with hills, wind, lactate training) and am also using it develop a new type of ebike.

From what I have seen if you consider the following to make it a reliable bike.

- You might need a bigger bike consider the 27.5-29" bikes which are $150-250
- As mentioned, unless that front derailleur is on a boss don't even shift the front. Just keep it on 2nd
- There are many different grades of rear derailleurs; you can research them before buying
- Get at least a front disc brake for your size; clean the brake contact surfaces regularly due to your size; keep up brake maintenance since we have increased speeds on motorbikes
- The rear wheel on these bikes are not as strong as custom bikes. Either replace it with a good wheel or get a hub adapter ($40) to save the hub
- If it said a "mountain" bike this means a light trail bike. Do not ride a Walmart mountain bike on an actual mountains or do jumps. I mean it doesn't seem like you are planning to do this

Once I finish developing the ebike, due to the performance and quality so far from the Walmart bike, I feel confident on going on a multi day cross state ride as a proof of concept. This will be a ~500 mile ride.
 
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Show us a pic of what kind of bike looks like what you want.

I had a customer that wanted me to motorize his Surley Mountain Bike and make it a mountain goat.

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I did not want to modify the rear 8" disc brake.
He did not want gears, just one fixed sprocket.
I jackshafted it with just a single speed sprocket sprocket anyway.

SurelyFinalDrive[1].jpg


He can drop in an internal shifter hub on if he get bored with a single speed.

You can fit an engine in a small V bike frame, it's just challenging, especially the carb.

Surley2SmuleCarb[1].jpg


Lots of http://SickBikeParts.com parts on that build and they worked great ;-}
 
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