Mossy
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Broken circlip equals Walk Of Shame!
- Thread starter Urban Fatbiker
- Start date
D
Deleted member 33472
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i would make sure to put a cross hatch on the cylinder wall before you assemble it. the cross hatch will make sure that the cylinder wall retains oil. it will give some added protection against seizure next time. ive put over 1,000 miles on my 49cc, im about ready to put on a 3rd set of tires, and have yet to have a single problem.
I have a pair of tires that I have saved as spares that have used only 25% of their tread and have 3000 miles on them.
The set of tires i put on my Zeda 80 Hyper Beach Cruiser have exactly 1123 miles on them as of this moment.
What kind of tires are you using that requires a third set of tires after only 1000 miles???
I'm using Kevlar reinforced tires with super thick self sealing tubes on my bikes.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bell-Spo...Bike-Tire-with-Kevlar-26-x-1-75-Black/5750639
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Slime-Su...r-Tube-Schrader-26-x1-75-2-125-30081/49455299
Street Ryderz
Well-Known Member
I cannot not condone trying to put a cross hatch in most of these 2t's with chrome plated lining or any of the good ceramic jugs it's done all ready and mostly will just do damage to the all ready way to thin coatings.
Also I agree that three sets of tires in 1k miles is not good, my back tire will last 3-4k miles on average and the front is still fine so i put it out back and a new one on the front so more like 6-8k miles on one that has seen double duty.
When you say 49cc do you mean the four stroke? There is no 49cc 2t bicycle engine, there are 48cc ones and I have a few and my favorite is actually a 50cc from 2006 with well over 10k on it and all that was done was clean up and chamfer the ports an you can still see the cross hatch from factory to this day.
Urban Fatbiker
Well-Known Member
Pictured are:
G-clip 10mm internal 1.0 wire
(SawAgain)
C-clip 10mm internal 0.8mm wire
(SawAgain)
C-clip 10mm internal, appears to be 0.9-1 0mm wire. I'll measure later today, my eyeball calibration error is in excess of 1mm.
(RacingPlanetUSA)
I haven't fit the third clip, I'll use them to replace oem g-clips in my second 48cc I'm setting up for fatbike if they fit well.
That said, not going backward on first one. Cutting g-clip carefully, its a c-clip, and at least on that piston, fit well.
What's the exact spec on piston groove depth anyways? Does every mfgr meet that spec?
G-clip 10mm internal 1.0 wire
(SawAgain)
C-clip 10mm internal 0.8mm wire
(SawAgain)
C-clip 10mm internal, appears to be 0.9-1 0mm wire. I'll measure later today, my eyeball calibration error is in excess of 1mm.
(RacingPlanetUSA)
I haven't fit the third clip, I'll use them to replace oem g-clips in my second 48cc I'm setting up for fatbike if they fit well.
That said, not going backward on first one. Cutting g-clip carefully, its a c-clip, and at least on that piston, fit well.
What's the exact spec on piston groove depth anyways? Does every mfgr meet that spec?
Urban Fatbiker
Well-Known Member
Got it all back together with upgrades.
Shift kit bracket with welded clamshell clamps and studs on hard flex PVC split-wrap. Thats solid.
Front mount redid with clamshells gripping thick polyeutherane tube.
I redid my coupler, couldn't find anything reasonable to buy and fit. Same elbow cut from a z-adaptor. I sleeved heater hose with two wraps of shim, greased on one side so it'd slide and compress hose tight against butted tubes. No wiggle now its solid.
Jackshaft with PGN bearings, drilled dimples for sprocket set screw, replaced loose washer shims. Biggest change is collars inside and outside sprockets. The L side collar is split, the rest seat key groove. If I have to take out shaft, everything on L side can be removed. The rest is trapped assuming set screws of collar bite keyway. Hope they do, more grip.
Bofeng (not a Dellorto what got into my head?) carb, and mine came with the o ring.
Dumped fuel, have my dino 16:1 mix ready.
No trainer stand low throttle crap this time.
Riding tomorrow.
Stop.
Ride again.
Stop.
So on and so forth.
Shift kit bracket with welded clamshell clamps and studs on hard flex PVC split-wrap. Thats solid.
Front mount redid with clamshells gripping thick polyeutherane tube.
I redid my coupler, couldn't find anything reasonable to buy and fit. Same elbow cut from a z-adaptor. I sleeved heater hose with two wraps of shim, greased on one side so it'd slide and compress hose tight against butted tubes. No wiggle now its solid.
Jackshaft with PGN bearings, drilled dimples for sprocket set screw, replaced loose washer shims. Biggest change is collars inside and outside sprockets. The L side collar is split, the rest seat key groove. If I have to take out shaft, everything on L side can be removed. The rest is trapped assuming set screws of collar bite keyway. Hope they do, more grip.
Bofeng (not a Dellorto what got into my head?) carb, and mine came with the o ring.
Dumped fuel, have my dino 16:1 mix ready.
No trainer stand low throttle crap this time.
Riding tomorrow.
Stop.
Ride again.
Stop.
So on and so forth.
Urban Fatbiker
Well-Known Member
Replaced that crappy elbow in pic above. It was cut from a crappy z-pipe extender. I cut another one from a different Z-pipe that was welded properly (not cut bent over and tacked).
First run aborted, found a head leak! The squish band was not flat, had dip in front and back. Sanded flat on plane surface, refit new gasket.
That fixed, ran again. Seems to be 4-stroking a lot I thought. I put NT carb back on, w/ a 67 jet, and clip in middle. Ran like crap. Bogged, and bad top end.
Maybe not 4-stroking. Crap this pic comes to mind.
Who was it said it got too hot? I was listening.
Put the Bofeng back on, w/ needle clip at top. Ran a bit, this time great accel but still sputtering at top.
Came on here to find out what jets fit the JRL Bofeng (Predator 212). Ordered, be here tomorrow.
Pic of Bofeng jet.
Putting in a 75 and see how it sounds.
Break in can wait till I'm sure its rich. I did a paper towel test around head, intake, exhaust, no trace oil. Maybe overheat popped that clip out? Maybe head was leaking but I didn't catch it?
Anyways, trying not to smoke this jug.
One last concern...that torquer-up pipe. Is it worse from a overheat perspective than running stock pipe? I took a curve out, that shortened header by 5 inches, yeah it moves the powerband, is it just a performance issue with this thing or a concern?
On plus side, drivetrain is rock solid now, very pleased, I can feel rigidity, ease of pedal-start even with my tall jackshaft gearing. I'll modify fatbike mounts at least as rigid as that, maybe more, I have a keyed shaft with threaded end I can locknut one side. No hurry on that one, still trying to get this one right.
First run aborted, found a head leak! The squish band was not flat, had dip in front and back. Sanded flat on plane surface, refit new gasket.
That fixed, ran again. Seems to be 4-stroking a lot I thought. I put NT carb back on, w/ a 67 jet, and clip in middle. Ran like crap. Bogged, and bad top end.
Maybe not 4-stroking. Crap this pic comes to mind.
Who was it said it got too hot? I was listening.
Put the Bofeng back on, w/ needle clip at top. Ran a bit, this time great accel but still sputtering at top.
Came on here to find out what jets fit the JRL Bofeng (Predator 212). Ordered, be here tomorrow.
Pic of Bofeng jet.
Putting in a 75 and see how it sounds.
Break in can wait till I'm sure its rich. I did a paper towel test around head, intake, exhaust, no trace oil. Maybe overheat popped that clip out? Maybe head was leaking but I didn't catch it?
Anyways, trying not to smoke this jug.
One last concern...that torquer-up pipe. Is it worse from a overheat perspective than running stock pipe? I took a curve out, that shortened header by 5 inches, yeah it moves the powerband, is it just a performance issue with this thing or a concern?
On plus side, drivetrain is rock solid now, very pleased, I can feel rigidity, ease of pedal-start even with my tall jackshaft gearing. I'll modify fatbike mounts at least as rigid as that, maybe more, I have a keyed shaft with threaded end I can locknut one side. No hurry on that one, still trying to get this one right.
Chainlube
Well-Known Member
Why do you need the extra length on your intake?
Urban Fatbiker
Well-Known Member
Presuming this torquer-up pipe has a resonance, and acts as a tuned pipe, and someone did maff for dimensions, taking out 5 inches of header moves the RPM sweet spot higher.
How much I dunno.
Maff is hard.
How much should I care depends primarily on how much overheat it might cause. Secondary is where RPM sweet spot should be, hoping its not at WOT.
Did removing 5 inches move that higher?
And how much?
Chainlube
Well-Known Member
The extra length on the intake isn't going to affect any of that. Mount your carb directly to the black intake and eliminate the hose and clamps. All that stuff just makes it easier the get an air leak.
