GEBE axle mount- modifications and additions

Frame Mounting a GEBE/Kit (One Approach)

(A leetle more detail than the post on my thread. I'm... pretty sure this is how I did it.)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 1)

First I mounted the GEBE main bracket in its “normal” position, attached to the rear axle.

I measured the distance between the top of the tire and the “inside” of the bracket. On my bike this was 20 millimeters, but your measurement could vary.



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 2)

I took a scrap of 3/16” steel and made a simple bracket. The bracket attaches to the existing 5mm holes in the rear fork. These holes are where you would normally attach a bike rack or fenders.

Using guesstimation, I drew a reference line across my bracket. After I cut down the GEBE main bracket, this was where the new end of the GEBE main bracket was going to rest.

Exactly where you draw the reference line isn’t that important. I drew it where I thought there would be good support for the brackets after I drilled all the holes, and after I had it all attached to the bike. What’s important is that, after you draw this line - DON’T MOVE IT.



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 3)

I c-clamped the unmodified GEBE bracket to my bracket so that the end of the GEBE bracket touched my reference line.

Then I bolted my bracket to the bike. The GEBE bracket was now in a “raised” position.

After taking another measurement, I could see that when the GEBE bracket was attached to my bracket, it was 70 mm above the tire. That meant my bracket raised the GEBE bracket by 50mm.

I unclamped the two brackets and cut the last 50mm from the end of the GEBE bracket on both sides.



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 4)

I c-clamped the cut down GEBE bracket to my bracket, and put the new end of the GEBE bracket against my reference line.

That’s why the reference line is so important. After you cut the GEBE bracket down, the new end of the GEBE bracket has to rest in exactly the same spot as it did before.

With the two brackets clamped together, I put everything into a vise and drilled a 3/8” hole through both brackets. I repeated this on the other side of the bracket.

I chose a 3/8” hole because both brackets are big enough to take a hole this size and still have a good amount of metal left. Also, 3/8” is very close to 9mm, which is a common axle thickness. I figured if a 9mm axle was strong enough for the normal GEBE bracket, a 3/8” carriage bolt should be strong enough for my modified version.



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 5)

Next I put it all together:

1. My bracket attaches to the frame
2. The GEBE bracket attaches to my bracket.

Because the end of the GEBE bracket touches the same reference line before and after it is cut, the GEBE bracket ends up 20mm above the tire, just like before.

My modified bracket is less than 1/2 of a millimeter from its original position, so the GEBE belt fits perfectly.

Another good thing about this design is that, although my bracket has 2 bolts and therefore cannot pivot, the GEBE bracket is attached to my bracket with 1 bolt. That means that even though the GEBE is mounted to my frame, I can still pivot the motor back and forth a bit, and decide how close or far away I want it to be from the saddle.
 

Attachments

  • s1_unmoded_main_bracket_in_normal_position.jpg
    s1_unmoded_main_bracket_in_normal_position.jpg
    53 KB · Views: 402
  • s2_my_brack_in_place.jpg
    s2_my_brack_in_place.jpg
    45.4 KB · Views: 396
  • s4_gebe_bracket_in_raised_position.jpg
    s4_gebe_bracket_in_raised_position.jpg
    36.2 KB · Views: 394
  • s4_new_end_against_my_ref_line.jpg
    s4_new_end_against_my_ref_line.jpg
    21.1 KB · Views: 373
  • s7_gebe_bracket_mounted_to_frame.jpg
    s7_gebe_bracket_mounted_to_frame.jpg
    55.5 KB · Views: 387
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks Sam....:D

(A leetle more detail than the post on my thread. I'm... pretty sure this is how I did it.)

(Step 1)

First I mounted the GEBE main bracket in its “normal” position, attached to the rear axle.

I measured the distance between the top of the tire and the “inside” of the bracket. On my bike this was 20 millimeters, but your measurement could vary........

My modified bracket is less than 1/2 of a millimeter from its original position, so the GEBE belt fits perfectly.

I was thinking about that initial measuring and marking, in the thread about "spreading a frame" theres a picture of my wingednut "axle substitute", to hold the rear forks together, which possibly could be used in this application.

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=5708

Two other possible ways to hold that mount steady would be
a). using the two carriage bolts (3/8" or 9mm) that are going to eventually connect the pieces, (I might buy different lengths for my testing)
or
b). even tie-ing a foot-long dowel in the axle slot, to slip the GEBE mount off and on really simply.....

In fact, just thinking out loud here, IF you put longer carriage bolts on that connection, the "dead end" threads sticking "out", could be used in a secondary way, hold something else, like one end of a bar or bracket, when capped with a wingnut. hmmmmmmmm.
 
Last edited:
One final thought about the beauty of "framemounting" the GEBE.

By freeing up some space on the axle, a heavy-duty "training wheel" could be added to one side, to give stability to an uncertain senior citizen who keeps thinking about tri-cycles......

Sam's tips don't mention the threading of the belt around the mount, just a heads up on getting that part correct.

Afterwards, if the wheel is detached, the belt just dangles out of the way, no need to rethread it....
 
Nice job !!

Great job Sam !! Excellent description and pics too. I just whacked mine off after the measurements , and drilled a new hole right through the frame and mount....I was in a hurry to get ridin'...your mount doesn't require drilling the frame which is probably better. Some of us dont have access to a lot of tools and such. I had to take mine to the gas station and have the guys there whack it off for me...so it was a simple fix...after the whack..just drill a couple holes and drive off into the sunset. Here is the link to my frame mount.

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=6357&page=3
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks Sam....:D

In fact, just thinking out loud here, IF you put longer carriage bolts on that connection, the "dead end" threads sticking "out", could be used in a secondary way, hold something else, like one end of a bar or bracket, when capped with a wingnut. hmmmmmmmm...

You're right, Bam. It's hard to see from the pictures, but right now the GEBE bracket is connected to my bracket with a 3/8" x 1" carriage bolt. That is actually plenty of room for a couple of other support brackets and a 3/8" nylox.

In fact, the next experiment will be to mount an auxiliary tank in exactly that way (once I figure out how to connect the aux tank to the stock tank. Details to come...)

-Sam
 
So, Lars, because you didn't remove TOO MUCH of the axlemount, you could adapt your set up to one like Sam's, when he (or any other experimenter) figures out how to carry a 32 oz bottle/tank using those extra millimeters of thread.

It looks very do-able.

The mount itself is able to hold a bottle carrier anyway, it's just getting the tubing in there securely.
 
EUREKA- why not a metal Army surplus canteen?

It has the heavy duty snap on carrier pouch, which when utilized, would also hold the canister better on the bumpy parts.

Unsnap, gas up, resnap and insert the tube/filter.
 
That's a nice setup smap... would you mind if I borrowed your idea for my own bike? It would make changing a tire a lot friendlier and save some serious aggravation. Really well thought out.
 
I just bolted the mount on....

Very impressive Sam!!
That looks like the way to go, but for now I needed to get rolling!!
Riding time in Ohio is slipping away!!

SO....what I did on the left side of the axle that I thought was "crossthreaded"....was simply bolt the mount on.
Plenty of room on the axle using this method.
& I really TORQUED it down tight!!

In the past (& on the right side of my bike it worked this time...but not enough room on the left for whatever reason.....) I always "sandwiched" the mount between the "nut" which tightens the axle to the frame & put another nut to hold the mount on the axle.

Basically, the mount "SITS" on the axle but between two nuts.

Well, like I said earlier, I just put the mount on the left side on the axle (that I was having problems with because there was not enough "axle" thread to tighten properly) & just used the "one" nut to tighten both axle & engine mount together.

I have had not one problem & the bike runs smooth etc.
IS this a NO NO???
I have no idea why I "sandwiched" the mount in the first place.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Starrman15
 
Canteen as fuel tank

Bama...you read my mind. In my "desperatley seeking a fuel container" quest many evil thoughts have entered my mind....First off...I aint gonna pay 5 bucks for a bottle holder for the fuel container...so I salvaged one off an old junk bike...secondly off....I aint gonna pay 12bucks for a msr bottle... cause its just a bottle. which got me thinkin' , hey....when you stick a bottle in that salvaged holder it aint gonna stay put long...all the holes, in the roads in Fargo Dakotey. Whence my eyeballs fell upon a canteen in wallyworld...now I read Bama's post...a visionary..like myself. :cool: Yes...I could do a mount like Sam's. I will journey now in search of a canteen with holder and keep you guys posted.
 
Back
Top