Clutch issue?

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So I've got the bike running pretty good... gotta play around with tuning the carb I believe and she should be good to good, almost broken in. Next weekend, I will post a video so you guys can tell me if everything sounds okay or if you can foresee any issues...

The only problem I'm (still) having is when I go to slow down and disengage the clutch (hold down the clutch lever) , sometimes (not all the time - but maybe like half the time) it'll rev up really high like I'm going full throttle... I've actually had to hit the kill switch a couple times just because I didn't want to mess anything up with the break in process, as I'm currently trying to baby it through the first two tanks of gas, as I was recommended to do...

In a previous thread, I posted about this issue and someone said to hold down the clutch lever and give it gas and see if the back wheel spins and I've tried this and this is not occuring.

What is causing it to rev up like that when I press the clutch lever while trying to slow down? Even though it's revving up real high, I'm not gaining speed so it's not like the clutch is engaging while I'm holding down the lever... I don't think...

Any help would be greatly appreciated as always... I'm very grateful for all the help I've received so far here. Thank you in advance!

 

[DAMIEN1307]

The problem with the high rev is most likely an air leak either from the carburetor and/or the manifold connection as well as a leaking intake gasket, or also from the head gasket and/or bottom gasket on the cylinder jug itself.

Many people miss the fact that for at least the first two hundred miles, the four nuts on top of the head, after each heat up and cool down cycle, need to be retorqued, as the aluminum threads themselves on the studs and the drilled threads in the jug keep expanding and contracting which changes the hold down torque.

First thing I always do with a new kit is throw out those stupid acorn nuts they come with and replace them with regular nuts and lockwashers because they almost always top out on the top of the studs but never hit the top of the head to give a proper torque, thus allowing the gasket leakage which results in excess air induction through the head and base gaskets which results in the high rev conditions.

The torquing proceedure needs to be done every heat cycle, (and must be completely cold), for at least the first two hundred miles until it all settles in.

Torquing needs to be done in an "X" pattern and is best done with a 10 or 11 inch long, INCH pound torque wrench set at 144 INCH pounds, (can be found at Harbour Freight for 20 bucks), which corresponds to 12 ft pounds on a regular torque wrench, which can be a little unwieldly to get into tight spaces with...Let me know if this was any help to ya.

 

[Chainlube]

You most likely have an intake air leak. Get a spray bottle with some water in it, once the engine is warm and you pull in the clutch and the revs high, spray the connection between the carb and manifold and the manifold to cylinder. If the engine stalls out, then you have found your leak.

 

[Search]

I have a confession...
...when I was braking, I was accidently twisting the throttle...

 

[DAMIEN1307]

I have a confession...
...when I was braking, I was accidently twisting the throttle...

"Father" Damien will now open the confessional just for you, you sinner...lol.

So tell me my son, what or who keeps making you turn that throttle twist grip everytime your braking???...Possibly, maybe, Could it be, Satan...lol...lol.

 

[Whitewill1412]

I have a confession...
...when I was braking, I was accidently twisting the throttle...

We have found the problem!