First bike build. Clutch very stiff?

I suppose a poor cabling job might require that little springs assist to the clutch lever...

I size every cable except a 2 stoke throttle cable (both ends have fittings) to a size that looks and functions nice, I have ~65 2-stroke builds so far, and I have never used that little spring for it's purpose, but they do work OK for a 4-stroke throttle return spring so some get reused ;-}

There is art to pull cable cutting but it's easy to learn, the thing is you need the right tool and they are like ~$45 so not worth it if you only plan to build a bike or two, for me it's an essential tool and why my builds look so 'clean'.
I also will size cables but I dont have a specail tool for it all I do is cut the casing the length required with the cable removed of course! Then put the cable back in and wick solder in the area to be cut no fraying and can be re threaded in the case again if needed!
 
A blind dog with a note in his mouth could see what the spring is for. Just seein, I mean just sayin.
I can't believe I've never set the internal clutch spring pressure before.

I still stand behind my statement, especially if the OP wants a softer clutch pull action, just set the internal spring softer, however if you set it soft that return spring can become more important. Just the facts after break-in it gets too loose to operate correctly.
 
Look people, the extra spring is a piece of sh*t.

Adjust the clutch right and that thing can and should be left in the spare parts bin.
That is true for someone who is able to set up their clutch properly and i agree. BUT for a newb who doesnt understand how it works and what it requires to set it up the spring helps to insure the little gap needed between the cam and bucking bar!If you think about it the ball bearing and bucking bar are turning with the clutch shaft and if there is constant slight pressure there it's wearing prematurely if the little gap is there no pressure far less wear!As I said before I have seen from customers improper setup the wear that occures and why they say they have to adjust it all the time! set up right it should not really need adjusting for quite some time!
 
That is true for someone who is able to set up their clutch properly and i agree. BUT for a newb who doesnt understand how it works and what it requires to set it up the spring helps to insure the little gap needed between the cam and bucking bar!If you think about it the ball bearing and bucking bar are turning with the clutch shaft and if there is constant slight pressure there it's wearing prematurely if the little gap is there no pressure far less wear!As I said before I have seen from customers improper setup the wear that occures and why they say they have to adjust it all the time! set up right it should not really need adjusting for quite some time!

I just stretched my spring while I was there, all the tension squeezed it into a tube.
 
That is true for someone who is able to set up their clutch properly and i agree. BUT for a newb who doesnt understand how it works and what it requires to set it up the spring helps to insure the little gap needed between the cam and bucking bar!If you think about it the ball bearing and bucking bar are turning with the clutch shaft and if there is constant slight pressure there it's wearing prematurely if the little gap is there no pressure far less wear!As I said before I have seen from customers improper setup the wear that occures and why they say they have to adjust it all the time! set up right it should not really need adjusting for quite some time!
No, the spring is still s**t regardless of the incompetence of the installer.

It's simple, do it freakin right and move on.
 
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