First build

This is my first build. I have posted for a while now but today was the first day I had where everything was in that allowed me to do my first step of painting the frame.

So far this build is going to be a retro/vintage looking Indian cruiser/board track racer.

The frame is a GT2A Skyhawk frame with 150mm drop out. The front forks are black powder coated 1 1/8" threadless Sunlite Deluxe double springer. Once my threadless stem arrives Monday I hope the paint to be cured enough to assemble the head set so I can cut my steer tube down to size then I will be using Eastwood Down to Metal paint and powdercoat stripper so I can paint the forks in the same color as the frame.

Anyways here are the photos I have taken from what I have done today.

Primered with Dupli-Color self etching primer

Base coat

Base Coat w/ Indian Script

First coat of clear

Second coat of clear

Third and final coat of clear

For me the shape of the frame resulted in some over spray with the clear so I am hoping when it comes to the buff stage after this clear had time to dry it will buff out. If not I still have some clear left over and I will simply put more clear where it needs it and just blend it in.

For those that are wondering the paint is 1949/1950 Dodge Red. This red as per PaintRef.com shows the mixing code is the same as Coke-Cola red. Which from my research a guy who had these bikes new said the closest match to Indian red was Coke-Cola red as that's what his guy did when there wasn't any Indian red for his bike he would use Coke-Cola red for a almost perfect match. The clear is automotive grade high gloss clear that I purchased from AutomotiveTouchup which is where the base coat came from as well. I have used their paint in the past for automotive and am very impressed with color matching even for 40+ year old vehicles that are sun bleached.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Ouch, Ive been thinking on how to route cabling for mine. I hope that the cable I get is of a small enough diameter that it will fit through the eyelets welded to the frame. I think they would work perfect for cable holders vs using zip ties. I figure use the one on the front fork for the caliper, use the coaster brake square to hold the speedometer cable. Then the single eyelets going down the down tube to the rear will hold my rear caliper cable. The two under the tank I plan on using for my clutch and throttle cable.

I want to first get the bike partially built so I can use string to route it and measure for length of cable I will need.

Also thanks for the compliment. I work on cars and trucks for a living and lots of what I do is hotrod stuff so I get to make things look real nice for others and I just cant go any further on my current five vehicle projects I have till after I move so I saw some of these on Jay Leno`s Garage on YouTube for a company in California and started looking into it as a DIY kind of thing for a cheaper price. So this is my little summer project that can be finished by Fall.

 

[gary55]

It's gona be a nice fall. I'm with ya on all the cables accept the clutch. This is a bit diff. and don't have the rear disc so it opened up the eylets on the down tube. I like the cable running parallel to the ground for the clutch. Just my taste I guess. Tried it both ways and didn't like it running straight down with the sudden curve into the cable stop. View media item 60782

 

[Crisco]

Starting to come together there Rusty.. That fork looks that bomb..!!

Curious about that rear axle though... (and more so where you bought it from..)
Do they tell you what material or grade of steel they are made from..?
Brand name or Chinese no name hub/bearings,,?
Because you're spacing it out, doesn't that mean that the bearings are further inboard from the dropouts than they should be..?
I'm building up my wheels at the moment and these are the things I've been looking at while in the process.

It looks like I'm going to have the same probs as you with the speedo. I've ordered an old school analogue that sounds like it's similar to yours and I have the same forks coming from the states... one day... on a boat.. hopefully this year... sometime... soonish... Anyway, I definitely would NOT go drilling holes in your front hub..!!
However, hopefully you figure it out before my parts get here so I know what to do..!

Cheers
Crisco

 

[Rusty_S85]

Crisco, I bought my hub from here.

https://grubee-inc.myshopify.com/products/copy-of-2-hd-axle-kit-p-n-2hda51

I talked with Don Grubee and he said that this will work on a 150mm drop out you would just have to space it out. Doesn't say who makes it or what materials are used but it is considerably heavier than the whole wheel assembly I received Friday. It also uses sealed bearings which all one has to do is remove and take to an automotive store and have it matched up if it goes bad. It looks like a regular old sealed bearing you can buy for modern idler and tensioner pulley. This one some times when spinning it feels a little funky but I don't think there is a problem because it isn't always there might just be the way its being held.

From what I have been looking at yes the bearings will be 17mm more inboard than the frame dropouts. Only way I could get the bearings up against the dropouts is if I invested in a multi speed hub. I have since changed my mind about doing a multispeed build as my build was going to be pushing $2,000 if I do a shift-kit and multi speed build. So I opted for a single speed build which I originally was going to do. Only reason I got this frame is Bicycle-Engines made it sound like in the description that if I wanted to run wider tires I have to have the 150mm drop out frame. I know better now and wont make this mistake again. My second build will be built on a 135mm drop out.

The speedo is a problem for now. I keep visiting the idea of drilling holes side by side in the flange of the front hub to insert the arm of the speedometer drive. But I think I will try using my vice to flatten out the arm and bend it further up. I believe there are places online selling just the drive for these and I can replace it if I screw it up.

I did how ever find some vintage used Schwinn speedometer drives that look like they have the arms space farther apart. Only down side is I am unsure if the threads and drive style will match the cable included with my cheap knock off speedometer. If it will then I can clean it up and shoot it with some black or silver paint to freshen it up.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Well no word from the bike shop today yet. Guess tomorrow or Friday when my wheel will be ready.

Aside from that I ordered from amazon a pack of 5 mm and a pack of 2mm 3/8"/10mm spacers for my axle, will have to use them to align my chain tensioner pulley as well. Still not sure if I want to go with the pulley or the cog. The cog would require more spacers to true it to the chain where the pulley looks to be considerably wide so I might be able to get away with less spacers to get the chain to fit in the lip.

 

[Crisco]

Only way I could get the bearings up against the dropouts is if I invested in a multi speed hub.

Yeah that is what I have gone with to make sure the bearings are taking the load out near the dropouts. It won't be multi speed though... Just running a single sprocket instead of a cassette.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Yeah that is what I have gone with to make sure the bearings are taking the load out near the dropouts. It won't be multi speed though... Just running a single sprocket instead of a cassette.

Yep but I am just going to use 17mm worth of spacers on each side. Thing with bearings is long as you have the axle fully supported by spacers it doesn't matter where the bearing is situated at it will still be supported. Only way it would possibly pose a problem is if I just used a jam nut to space it out and left the threaded shaft bare to the jam nut for the bearing itself. But using the spacers it would be no different than having the frame against the jam nut.

Only thing is I have to wait till I get to the point of having the engine and chains installed so I can see if I can possibly get the toothed cog tensioner to work with a smallish spacer. Otherwise I will just have to use the nylon pulley.

I did how ever get from Amazon my order for my Mr Tuffy brown tube liner for use with my wheels today. The wheels came with rim liners so hopefully those are good enough to use. Only thing left is find a tube for it preferably with a Schrader valve, I keep looking at the michellin brand tubes as lots of people claim how soft of a ride they provide. I also still need to order my drop down kick stand but I really cant assemble my bike further till I at least get one disc brake rotor and the single speed freewheel cog then I can mount my wheel in the back at least.

Also trying to make a decision as I had originally planned on chrome crank and ring gear but then changed it to black now with the chrome drive sprocket for my engine I am revisiting if I should run a chrome ring gear with black one piece crank or go all chrome or just stick with plan of all black.

 

[Crisco]

Yeah that makes sense actually. As long as the axle is in compression with the spacers it shouldn't matter where the bearings are located. You could even buy some high carbon quality 3/8" ID tubing and cut to fit as one piece units on either side if you can't find correct spacers...

 

[Rusty_S85]

I thought of buying some spacers from Lowes I found the right size just 1" long vs 17mm long. I would have to cut them but I also don't like the thought of using steel spacers that has to be painted. For something that might have to be removed for tire or tube replacement I rather have something coated. Anything I found that is coated would not be coated on the end I cut to fit.

So I ordered some silver spacers from Amazon which is sadly being fulfilled by Niagara Bicycle who I swore off doing business with again after they refunded my money but never refunded my $30.30 store credit. I got a ten pack of 5mm and a ten pack of 2mm spacers. Ill need six 5mm spacers to make 15mm on each side and two 2mm spacer to make 17mm on each side.

I went a head and ordered my disc brake rotors from amazon as it was cheaper than buying from MBRebel. They aren't the same brand either. I ended up with a pair of Aztec brand 160mm brake rotors vs the unknown brand they were selling. I did order a black drop down stand from MBRebel so once I get my wheel which I am still waiting on a phone call from them that its finished. Once I get that, I will get some recommendations on tubes from them buy the tubes and see if they have a 16 or 17t freewheel sprocket for my hub. There are two different thread sizes and I rather get it fitted locally vs ordering the wrong thread. Once tires are in I can assemble the wheel to the bike and put the front fork on. Only thing left then is bottom bracket pieces, engine, seat post and seat and the correct chains.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Well I called up ICycle down here they have my wheel scheduled to be built today so it should be ready today. I guess they were just real busy. In any case thankfully they are open till 7pm as I get off work at 6pm. Not to mention I will be out of town all day tomorrow.

I just need to make a little list as I want to pick up some stuff while I am at the local bike shop as well.