Break In First start attempts. Not even a pop or the crack of a spark

I like the approach on the head-steady, but wonder if old oil will block the muffler extension if no hole is drilled at low point.
Thanks I'm glad you like! That's only a temporary version, I got the aluminium today for the intended full span version that will be much better. I'm just hoping that it relieves some of the stresses on the lower mounts and prolongs the life of the aluminium frame. :)

We will see about the extension, but it's inexpensive to replace, can be reversed I suppose, and Fabian the originator of this idea didn't have a drain hole AFAIK. :)
 
I like the approach on the head-steady, but wonder if old oil will block the muffler extension if no hole is drilled at low point.
I wondered that too, but do you think it's possible for just burnt oil to be able to stop all that pressure and heat? Maybe if it managed to cake up and go solid?

Where did you get the idea to place dampeners between the fins from?
 
I like the approach on the head-steady, but wonder if old oil will block the muffler extension if no hole is drilled at low point.
I wondered that too, but do you think it's possible for just burnt oil to be able to stop all that pressure and heat? Maybe if it managed to cake up and go solid, at least we have a guinea pig for this, I'm interested in the sound change, I have a few ideas myself for my muffler.
 
I wondered that too, but do you think it's possible for just burnt oil to be able to stop all that pressure and heat? Maybe if it managed to cake up and go solid?

Where did you get the idea to place dampeners between the fins from?
I wondered that too, but do you think it's possible for just burnt oil to be able to stop all that pressure and heat? Maybe if it managed to cake up and go solid, at least we have a guinea pig for this, I'm interested in the sound change, I have a few ideas myself for my muffler.
The member named Fabian was the originator of the silicone hose stealth exhaust extension, and he never mentioned anything about a drain hole or blockages. The hose won't last forever but it's cheap enough to replace. If you make it in two sections then you can just replace the first section. I will try to gauge the stealth pipe's effectiveness by disconnecting it or swapping it with the leftover 5" piece sometime in the future when I'm well away from people.

The fin damping blocks IIRC were the idea of one of the guys from SBP I think who was using them on the cylinder before there were all these aftermarket heads. They make sense though as I could tell the MZ "R" head fins ring even more than the cylinder fins do.
 
The info I read, and copied to my little file, about trying to find out the ideal sparkplug gap for an individual engine, was as follows:

" try 0.025" first then 0.028", 0.030", 0.032" "

Is this correct for the NGK iridium plugs?

I have to admit I don't have a gauge but I used a small selection of bits of metal to estimate the gap to be around 0.030" and I decided to not change it at the time, despite the info I had read and bothered to copy, as it came this way and "who am I to assume it's wrong". :oops:
I could try to close the gap to 0.025" if it might be causing an open circuit, or if the smaller figure is regarded as a better starting point for these plugs too.
 
The info I read, and copied to my little file, about trying to find out the ideal sparkplug gap for an individual engine, was as follows:

" try 0.025" first then 0.028", 0.030", 0.032" "

Is this correct for the NGK iridium plugs?

I have to admit I don't have a gauge but I used a small selection of bits of metal to estimate the gap to be around 0.030" and I decided to not change it at the time, despite the info I had read and bothered to copy, as it came this way and "who am I to assume it's wrong". :oops:
I could try to close the gap to 0.025" if it might be causing an open circuit, or if the smaller figure is regarded as a better starting point for these plugs too.
From my understanding an iridium plug shouldn't need gaping, actually that's according to the product packaging, or the site, one of the 2 state the gap is preset and changing it isn't required/recommended.
 
From my understanding an iridium plug shouldn't need gaping, actually that's according to the product packaging, or the site, one of the 2 state the gap is preset and changing it isn't required/recommended.
Okay cool, thanks. I just wondered. :)
I'll get on with trying out the other magneto this weekend. :)
 
Okay cool, thanks. I just wondered. :)
I'll get on with trying out the other magneto this weekend. :)
I remember on my plug it was basically parallel to the flat top of the electrode, I dropped it of all things and it landed on the tip and closed the gap...

I remembered the detail and just bent it to about the same level and it worked fine. Probably the recommended normal happy time gap is fine here too. These motors have bigger problems holding them back..
 
I remember on my plug it was basically parallel to the flat top of the electrode, I dropped it of all things and it landed on the tip and closed the gap...

I remembered the detail and just bent it to about the same level and it worked fine. Probably the recommended normal happy time gap is fine here too. These motors have bigger problems holding them back..
Such as my ham fisted soldering, haha! :rolleyes:
 
Ham fisted isn't precise... Inept is a better one. I know how to solder so believe me beginner mistakes are NOTHING compared to a few of my ham-fist solder jobs. I'm talking about the late night fixing wiring on a vehicle and you're tired and pissed and you just wrap the wire tips with a twisty tie from a bread bag and torch the s**t out of them while applying eighth inch solder till its pouring off and then wrap it in about 20 layers of cheap electrical tape to cover up all the jagged edges type of ham-fistedness.

Yeah it will only get worse, enjoy it while you can.
 
Back
Top