Chain Tensioner frame engine drive chain tensioner

It's my fault for I was rigging different rims turns out my NoMoreFlats tube is warped hopping as I'm churning along no worries I'll get another one at Wal Mart and get another cheap bike for the back rim but with all the kaos with switching sprockets and installing my wheel,I find my rear derailler is shot so I shortened my chain and I like it better and my spoke job is straight and true but it's OFFSET to the right what gives? Anyway I didn't pay any attention to my idler sprocket and it was angled wrong not in line with the chain and I went for it and it went "plunk" and I stopped and had to replace it from my tool pouch but this time I straightened it out and I'm rolling again. So it's important that this sprocket is aligned straight or this too may happen to you!!!!!!! :D
that sucks, i broke my humerus (the bone up to the soulder) by falling off my bike, granted i'd had to much alcohol so i was not in controll,so what the ****, regards bill
 
By the looks of things LF, too much spin on a small diamater and it shattered.

Mine is still Ok but keeping a close eye on it cos I feel it's about to snap to.
I hope it does as a matter of fact to find out how long it can last.
Have spare though, 10 minutes to replace.

BoltsM
 
i dont run a tensioner but i think a good idea is to modify a rear derailler and use the spring tension to keep tight but not too tight
 
What I mean by alignment is like if your car is on rails and you have the wheel turned.
That angle put too much sideways tension on the sprocket. I think that if it shattered,the hole or bearing area would be affected. It was off this much for when I installed my laced wheel it was offset by quite a bit and I had also flipped the sprocket. So it was offset by a bit.
 
Just waiting on another kit from my supplier and it's going to have one of those bearing roller.
But you are right in saying the chain goes on a angle between the drive and driven sprockets.
So we have a small project here,
1. Bearing Roller Wheel
2. Angle between the 2 sprockets
3. Spring loading the tensioner.
The trick is to find a do-able solution.
1 is already sorted.
2. twist the plate that holds the white plastic roller.
3 however, seems there are a few solutions with an old derailer as one of them.

I have another idea, why not find a way to have a do-able all 3 in 1 ?
A, spring-loaded-variable-twist-alignment-bearing-roller-chain-tensioner.

It has to be do-able, means no use of a lathe or special tools that cost heaps.

If heat is required, then do-able is one of those torches ya buy with gas bottle re-fills at Bunnings ( Aussie hardware place), I use this to bend exhaust pipes and can be used for many other small uses when metal needs to be heated to red for bending or small welding jobs.
Use with care, watch the fuel tank, don't underestimate the invisible heat these torches produce.
Cost about $70-$80 with new bottle, re-fill costs about $20.
 
on my other bike i run the tensioner and one of the first things i did with the roller removed was to get a shifter or (crescent) and gift it a twist on the frame to be in line with the chain so it runs true i didnt have any heat to apply
 
Ok
Firstly, somewhere I know I misplet LF's name, I used a P instead of the F.
My apologies.

Having said that, on test I used a larger Shimano derailer gear, it's red in color and about twice the diameter of the smaller black ones.
It works fine to and does not seem to be over-spinning.
Once I get a camear I'll post some pics.
The bolt I used is one that I found, it's a chrome plated allen key bolt, fits perfectly and tightens up well.
Just got back from a ride and very smooth and silent.

All credit to LF-L, very cool inovative solution.

The big red one is from a shimano alivio deraileur, my friend works at a mtb shop.Anybody check out the all aluminum ball bearing gear? There on ebay somewhere anodized any color!
 
Cool! But I wonder what size that hole is. If it's small like in the way derailiers are,then...maybe with the right sized bolt it may still work but if it's too small it may be too weak....or not.
 
Ok my 60 mile ride today back wheel is in a tube now instead of my NoMoreFlats so no more bump bump bump all smooth and nice out so naturally I'm cruising faster than usual and my other sprocket shattered exactly the same way as my first one.
So I put on Duane's tensioner from my tool pouch that has everything I can think of I need including a spare magneto and coil I simply won't mess around I'm talking I have EVERYTHING in this little tool pouch including a spare tube and a mini pump.
I need to scrap up a derailier with metal sprockets. I'm starting to wonder if it shattered for I had a nut as a spacer. Maybe that was too big of a gap between the sprocket and the tensioner frame.
Duane's roller tensioner does the job rather nicely. It should last a long time but I still want to perfect this sprocket.
 
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