Alternative Tensioner Methods

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FrizzleFried

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You be you ... just be sure to come in and let us know how things are going a few hundred down the road...
 

Cisco

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I would HIGHLY recommend removing a link though...
I ended up using a half link to solve the chain slack issue. I kind of like the idea of an upper roller, but only if it acts like a guide. Sometimes my chain slaps the tire when freewheeling downhill.
 

FrizzleFried

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I ended up using a half link to solve the chain slack issue. I kind of like the idea of an upper roller, but only if it acts like a guide. Sometimes my chain slaps the tire when freewheeling downhill.
This could be accomplished by situating the top tensioner right at the upper chain when it's under tension then I would drop it by about 1/16" from that spot or so.....

EDIT: For clarity... basically you want to make sure this top "guide" isn't under tension when under power. Ideally you want the tensioned chain to ride right above the "guide" only to drop down in to the "guide" when you let off power....
 
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I ended up using a half link to solve the chain slack issue. I kind of like the idea of an upper roller, but only if it acts like a guide. Sometimes my chain slaps the tire when freewheeling downhill.
I wouldnt mind looking into trying a half link. Honestly never heard of that til now 👍

And yes the top wheel is mostly just a guide, but really helps the overall smoothness of operation
 

DAMIEN1307

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You be you ... just be sure to come in and let us know how things are going a few hundred down the road...
but only if it acts like a guide.
This could be accomplished by situating the top tensioner right at the upper chain when it's under tension then I would drop it by about 1/16" from that spot or so.....
They way it is at the moment, with tension on both ends, it will probably fail sooner rather than later...When it does, do not be surprised about just how much is going to fail along with the tensioner, things like spokes and wheel, rear sprocket, chain bind on the front drive sprocket, possible motor damage due to abrupt seizeing of the front drive sprocket, etc. etc.
 
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They way it is at the moment, with tension on both ends, it will probably fail sooner rather than later...When it does, do not be surprised about just how much is going to fail along with the tensioner, things like spokes and wheel, rear sprocket, chain bind on the front drive sprocket, possible motor damage due to abrupt seizeing of the front drive sprocket, etc. etc.

Not saying I have a ton experience with these bikes, but as someone familiar with issues that could arise with these bikes, and actual hands on experience with this device...I can say as of right now, I like it 👍

The 4 points are all holding the chain in place, but I made sure there is enough slack in the chain to where it is guided thru all points smoothly, and really not too much tension at all...just enough to keep it from jumping the wheels.

As someone with hands on experience with this particular device, and not just talking out my butt lol, I would recommend giving it a try 👍
 

Cisco

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Even with a half link there is still a lot of slack. look how close the upper and lower sections of chain run 👀

ChainTensioner_RatBike.JPG

Would it work to run the chain under the tensioner pully?
 

DAMIEN1307

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Even with a half link there is still a lot of slack. look how close the upper and lower sections of chain run 👀

View attachment 181173

Would it work to run the chain under the tensioner pully?
You could probably just take the tension off the tensioner and then remove that half link by undoing the cotter pin and then just readjust the tensioner to have it fit better.

It looks like you have enough slack to do this.
 
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Even with a half link there is still a lot of slack. look how close the upper and lower sections of chain run 👀

View attachment 181173

Would it work to run the chain under the tensioner pully?
No.

All you need is another tensioner wheel, and do it the same as mine. The second wheel will guide the chain, but also either wheel can give extra tension, top or bottom, as needed. Works good for me so far...better than what u got now, which is how I had mine before for a while.
 
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