Alternative Tensioner Methods

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Since I started riding motorbikes, I've had to experiment with different chain tensioners. I wont go into much detail, but my bike has an abnormally large frame for a 26" bike, and the rear frame holding the rear wheel, flairs out wider than usual.

Because of this, the drive chain cant be cut to a perfect size to work proper without a tensioner, and the standard tensioner wont work on this frame. Even the aftermarket tensioner with the spring didn't work well. I needed an alternative tensioner method.

I finally found a nice alternative on Amazon (see pic 1). This tensioner (around $30) is a bracket that is supported at the bottom and rear of the frame. The kit came with a single wheel which can be moved higher or lower as needed, and the whole bracket can be bent a little to find the perfect angle. I really like this style tensioner and had been riding this for a while.

The only thing I didnt like was the top of the chain (being fed into the engine) would angle pretty low and close to the bottom of the chain, potentially rubbing together with the top of the wheel, if the chain isn't held tight enough by the tensioner.

To fix this I found another 2-wheel tensioner method, which I now use and works great (pic2).

This method is using two wheels on the bracket...the top wheel feeds the chain into the engine at the perfect angle, and the bottom wheel holds the chain tight.

I also found they have kits with this 2-wheel method for sale, around the same price. Just thought I would post this for any with tensioner problems 👍
Veterans feel free to comment with any suggestions.
 

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FrizzleFried

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Not a wise choice. You NEVER want to have a tensioner on the "drive" (top) side of the chain. You will destroy that tensioner quickly...

You need to pull a link out of your chain and use a single tensioner. Or at least move the current arch backwards a little to get the chain top/bottom away from each other (using one tensioner at the bottom). I would HIGHLY recommend removing a link though...
 

FrizzleFried

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...also, take a look at what you're doing to your seat stay (see photo 2). You are exacerbating the situation by pulling the chain north...
 
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Not a wise choice. You NEVER want to have a tensioner on the "drive" (top) side of the chain. You will destroy that tensioner quickly...

You need to pull a link out of your chain and use a single tensioner. Or at least move the current arch backwards a little to get the chain top/bottom away from each other (using one tensioner at the bottom). I would HIGHLY recommend removing a link though...
Yes if it was possible to remove a link, I most certainly would.

I don't think the top tensioner wheel is a problem, in my case. The chain sort of rolls over the top of the wheel, which spins and acts as a guide, more than anything. This is by far the smoothest running setup I've had and I've tried most. But I'm open to suggestions 👍

Edit: it may not be the best setup, but they are selling these kits online, so others must have a need for this method as well. sometimes it's not possible to remove additional links. just wanted to show people another option available which seems to work well so far👍

Upgrade Arch Idler Pulley Chain Tensioner https://a.co/d/cRMzn5T
 

FrizzleFried

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Again... you are putting stress on that tensioner when you hit the gas. It's very advisable you do NOT do that. Now, you do as you please... but you asked for opinions from the "veterans". I am hardly one... however... Vets... feel free to chime in.
 

FrizzleFried

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RE: the "upgrade" tensioner... while I do like the rounded bottom part for the chainstay... I am not as much of a fan of the top. Part of what I liked about the original was that it was IMPOSSIBLE for the thing to "fall in to" the wheel. This "upgraded" version takes that away... completely...
 
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Again... you are putting stress on that tensioner when you hit the gas. It's very advisable you do NOT do that. Now, you do as you please... but you asked for opinions from the "veterans". I am hardly one... however... Vets... feel free to chime in.
Well a tensioner is designed for the purpose of holding the chain in place, and is going to be stressed to some degree regardless. That is its purpose. Hence the word TENSION

In this case, the bottom wheel is taking most of the stress, holding the chain in place as it should, and the top wheel acts mostly as a guide.

I haven't heard any complaints about this method yet, and if I find it does not continue to work well in the future, I will update. 👍
 

FrizzleFried

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...you can lead a horse to water.

That said... it sure chaps my butt when someone asks "HEY! Those in the know... what do you think about THIS?" ... only to completely ignore the advice given when the advice doesn't align with what he may want. Why bother asking then?
 

FrizzleFried

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Damn you're quick on the draw with your "manual" curse filter! I prefer "arce" for the future... will that work by chance? ;)
 
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Now, you do as you please... but you asked for opinions from the "veterans". I am hardly one... however... Vets... feel free to chime in.
...I was asking veterans...and I agree, you are hardly so 😆

If this method doesn't hold up, no big deal
 
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