I also just noticed that you seem to have plenty of travel distance left in your drop outs to just simply loosen the wheel and move it back a little more to take up some extra slack.Would it work to run the chain under the tensioner pully?
I also just noticed that you seem to have plenty of travel distance left in your drop outs to just simply loosen the wheel and move it back a little more to take up some extra slack.Would it work to run the chain under the tensioner pully?
Thanks, I'll check it outyou seem to have plenty of travel distance left in your drop outs
For those interested, as I am someone with actual hands on experience with this product..it works well, with minimal tension on the top wheel.Just to put my 2 cents in. The function of a chain tensioner is to add a pre-set amount of tension to the slack side of a chain (non-driven, or bottom in a bikes case). That pre-set amount of tension is there to control the chain movement to help prevent it from whipping off the sprockets as well as reduce excessive lash to reduce wear.
The driven (top) is automatically tensioned when under load. Adding a tensioner here isn't necessarily harmful to the chain, but the tensioner wheel is going to be under a ton of load and will likely fail sooner. What it can do is add extra strain on the links and roller shafts at the link joints. By lifting the chain off the rear you are also reducing engagement, which increases load over the remaining rollers.
One thing a tensioner does not do is ensure alignment. If you are relying on a tensioner to keep a chain aligned, you are going to wear out sprockets and chains much faster.
I'm sorry but that's the sketchiest crap I've seen in awhile! That is completely unnecessary, and I can clearly see the upper chain line is cutting into the seat stay, no tensioner would be a better setup for this frame type as I've done it many times.Since I started riding motorbikes, I've had to experiment with different chain tensioners. I wont go into much detail, but my bike has an abnormally large frame for a 26" bike, and the rear frame holding the rear wheel, flairs out wider than usual.
Because of this, the drive chain cant be cut to a perfect size to work proper without a tensioner, and the standard tensioner wont work on this frame. Even the aftermarket tensioner with the spring didn't work well. I needed an alternative tensioner method.
I finally found a nice alternative on Amazon (see pic 1). This tensioner (around $30) is a bracket that is supported at the bottom and rear of the frame. The kit came with a single wheel which can be moved higher or lower as needed, and the whole bracket can be bent a little to find the perfect angle. I really like this style tensioner and had been riding this for a while.
The only thing I didnt like was the top of the chain (being fed into the engine) would angle pretty low and close to the bottom of the chain, potentially rubbing together with the top of the wheel, if the chain isn't held tight enough by the tensioner.
To fix this I found another 2-wheel tensioner method, which I now use and works great (pic2).
This method is using two wheels on the bracket...the top wheel feeds the chain into the engine at the perfect angle, and the bottom wheel holds the chain tight.
I also found they have kits with this 2-wheel method for sale, around the same price. Just thought I would post this for any with tensioner problems
Veterans feel free to comment with any suggestions.
Ya, I wasn't too keen on it, but I haven't had any problems. Too much slack without taking out a link, but not enough slack to take out a full link. I really like the crescent tensioner. I would like to find a neoprene roller that would fit.I know people hate them
I'm sorry but that's the sketchiest crap I've seen in awhile!