how do you go about getting in the over 50 mph club.

[Deleted member 12676]

to reach the top speed possible (given the port timing) you have to have ideal carb jetting.
my top speed on my Suzuki 100 jumped from 80kph to 92kph by reducing the main jet hole diameter by 3%. (from .93mm to .9mm)

 

[Demo_Ricky-Bobby]

60kph is only 37mph, he wants to go 60mph, that is 97kph.

I sure hope you have really solid nice bike with dual disc brake and good tires as bicycle parts won't take that kind of speed.

"gutted out stock muffler but replaced the cap
i want to get a better head and muffler.
i still have a boost bottle and reed valves im trying to get working on it."

It really helps to understand how a stoke engine works if you want to improve performance.
It has no valves, it tries to do intake and exhaust at the same time.

First of all throw the 'sucker bottle' away, they don't do anything with a regular system but lighten your wallet, and with an intake reed nothing comes back to catch and 'boost back' anyway.

Next is understanding the exhaust.
You lost power by gutting your exhaust, you want a timed push back to shove the escaping unburnt fuel back into the cylinder.

Just follow the green intake fuel mix path.

An expansion chamber exhaust is like a reverse turbo charger, it shoves that wasted fuel back in for a bigger fuel mix.

Then take page from the rice rockets book, get aerodynamic!
After ~32mph you are just fighting the wind resistance.

Want to actually feel how much force?
Hold you hand out the window in a car at 60mph and turn it.

You can go for more power to compensate, or just make the force less with aerodynamics.

U r wrong on the part about the boost bottle
If u look and 2 stroke dirt bikes and atv's
They hav both the boost bottle and a reed valve
The fuel air mix that goes in the bottle has almost nuthing to do with the fuel and air mix that willget stoped by the reed valve
The boost bottle holds extra unused fuel that doesnt make it past the reed valve
And wen u give her the bean and open full carb, the fuel air mix that is stored in the bottle is then sucked out of the bottle and then pushed into the engine creating most power
Like noss in a rice rocket
Its the same conceped, just ur not chosing wen it happens
It just works itself
So mayb u should look into get both the reed valve kit and the boost bottle
And make the work on ur bike
U will notice a porformed increase

 

[Deleted member 12676]

boost bottles, when designed correctly for the engine, do work. but none of them in the MB market are correctly designed.
see http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/YEIS.html

 

[Demo_Ricky-Bobby]

boost bottles, when designed correctly for the engine, do work. but none of them in the MB market are correctly designed.
see http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/YEIS.html

Ok well that is wat u think
I hav used the boost bottle
And hav made a boost bottle and i also started off using the boost bottle for the first time after coming across one for a yamaha blaster 200 doesnt matter which one i used
It made a proformance diffrence
My idle was set lower my throtle response was faster
Didnt matter wat kinda boost bottle i used
Im tired i seeing the articals that say if u use since in the right way then it will work
Well thats f***in stupid
Same with an expasion chamber
It doesnt hav to b by the book
These engine r peaces of junk that work fairly well
But none of that crap means anything for these engine
I put a 2 inch straight pipeon my engine i guess about 2 1/2 feet long straight form the head
And that was one of the best exhausts i ever had
These arent a normal engine
They dont need the sience like dirt bikes or atvs or car they dont
Iv done so much s**t with these engine its not even funny
But thats just me one smart guy that took matters into his own hands and found easyer way that work grate

 

[butre]

I'm not taking performance advice from someone who can't spell it. your poorly spelled anecdote goes against my decades of experience.

 

[Deleted member 12676]

All because these engines are low quality doesn't mean they don't have to obey the laws of physics.

 

[Steve Best]

Ok well that is wat u think
<SNIPPED>
But thats just me one smart guy that took matters into his own hands and found easyer way that work grate

I love the irony!

 

[Demo_Ricky-Bobby]

u guys can say all u want
Insulting somone doesnt make u the better person
Somtimes u hav to look around the physics
Somtimes the simpler things r wat makes the diffrence
And where somone can spell or not doesnt hav to do with how well of work can b preformed and how well somone can figure out the easyer ways something is made and built

 

[Steve Best]

Supposedly some of these hi perf carbs ads say you can get a 'substantial speed increase' over a regular NT carb. Then you'd read a Dellorto review by somebody who say they only noticed a 1 mph speed increase. Go figure.

I have the NT, CNS and Dellorto clone, all $17-$30 carbs. All are 14mm and perform the same (acceptably) when jetted properly. I see no performance advantage of one over another. Like Jag says, the jetting is crucial. The NT was set pretty close (slightly rich), but the others were jetted quite rich and gave less performance as delivered. I like the CNS for simplicity and easy access, although it takes an oddball 6mm jets (most are 5mm). I had to order a new set of jets ($17-$25 for 10) to tune it.

"Substantial speed increase"? You will not find it in a carb on a stock motor.
Significant RPM gains will come from porting and exhaust changes.
Widen the top of the exhaust port slightly and port match the flange and gasket of your exhaust with a 3/4" drill.
I'd estimate you will see a 2-3mph increase.

The $20-$40 chrome exhausts give slight "improvements".
Short ones will give 1-3 mph speed increases, long ones will kill top speed back 3-5 mph but increase hill power.
I have not run a real tuned pipe on my bike yet but know from past experience you can easily expect 20% to 80% power increases with a well done pipe. This would not translate into much increase in speed unless you changed the gearing to take advantage of it.

 

[Demo_Ricky-Bobby]

I have the NT, CNS and Dellorto clone, all $17-$30 carbs. All are 14mm and perform the same (acceptably) when jetted properly. I see no performance advantage of one over another. Like Jag says, the jetting is crucial. The NT was set pretty close (slightly rich), but the others were jetted quite rich and gave less performance as delivered. I like the CNS for simplicity and easy access, although it takes an oddball 6mm jets (most are 5mm). I had to order a new set of jets ($17-$25 for 10) to tune it.

"Substantial speed increase"? You will not find it in a carb on a stock motor.
Significant RPM gains will come from porting and exhaust changes.
Widen the top of the exhaust port slightly and port match the flange and gasket of your exhaust with a 3/4" drill.
I'd estimate you will see a 2-3mph increase.

The $20-$40 chrome exhausts give slight "improvements".
Short ones will give 1-3 mph speed increases, long ones will kill top speed back 3-5 mph but increase hill power.
I have not run a real tuned pipe on my bike yet but know from past experience you can easily expect 20% to 80% power increases with a well done pipe. This would not translate into much increase in speed unless you changed the gearing to take advantage of it.

I will agree on both the carb and gearing
By changine the gearing. U will get either more top speed and less torque for taking off and climbing
But u can alos change it to the point where u hav a fast take off and less top speed so b aware of how u change the gearing
And for the carbs i dont personally like the stock carb, most people do.
But it seems to not last after so many mile
I hav had the air/fuel pin brake its teeth and just slide up and down. Its happened to me more the once
These r the carbs that i hav had great success with
It doesnt make a big proformance increase but it does last
And the jets can b change in it
I cant remember the name of this carb but it is the one that i hav found that works great