how do you start/ stop the engine on a rack mount system?

5

5-7HEAVEN

Guest
:cool:Doug, with no gear reduction, be prepared for 10tooth-150-tooth sprockets.

that'd be about the size of the GEBE sheave pulley.

Myron
 


J

JemmaUK

Guest
Hey,

To stop I always use the choke and then kick the throttle to full momentarily. That happily kills the engine but be sure to set it back to normal running or the engine is the devil to start sometimes.

As far as the starter procedure is concerned its a pull start and I was also wondering about running some starter off the rear wheel to spin up the clutch and start the motor.. if that would be possible...

if not I will probably get a longer recoil starter cable and then route it so it would be fitted - via a roller to a location on the down bar - so I can start without putting my back out when on the bike..

Is the motor compatible with a underbar fuel tank (such as that sold by dax) ?

I have currently removed the plastic cover on the motor and it looks alot better - I may replace it with a black but otherwise leave it 'virgin' for a more classic appearance.

I think I am gonna need a new rear wheel *sigh* my one is not running true.

As to the chain/belt debate I would personally go for belt. I know of several 100+hp motorbikes that can be converted by kit, and their owners were universally impressed by the result..

Only provisos are - check alignments and keep an eye on the state of the belt...

Jemma xx

Jemma xx
 
5

5-7HEAVEN

Guest
:cool:I also pull the choke to stop. maybe i'll reposition the cover, so i can easily pullstart from the bike seat.

when the bike sat for awhile, one night i yanked on that pull cord a hundred times. the darn bike wouldn't start, so i slept on it. as soon as i awakened, i realized i hadn't released the choke. did that, and the engine roared to life in one pull.:rolleyes:

I won a 4.2hp Polini engine on ebay. seems to be the same size/weight of SUBARU/MITSUBISHI engines, but 2.625 times more powerful than the ROBIN. (after that is the 14.4hp monster, which is NINE times more powerful and 56% larger in displacement.)

the STATON should easily handle the extra hp. this is equivalent to replacing a 200hp 350 cubic-inch Chevy V-8 engine with a 525hp 438 cubic-inch or a 1440hp 531 cubic inch mill...with NO modifications NECESSARY to the vehicle's drivetrain.:eek:

GEBE lovers, keep the "200hp"; i'm shooting for the "525hp", and later for the "1440 hp" monster engine.

Myron
 
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S

sabrewalt

Guest
More Power.

Ladies and Gentleman, Please give a big tool time welcome to TIM the TOOOOLMAN!!!! Taylor!!
 
A

Alaskavan

Guest
I pull the starter rope to start and flip the kill switch (I replaced the one that came with my kit) to stop.
 
5

5-7HEAVEN

Guest
:cool:Nah, Sabre, Tim would replace the 1.6hp ROBIN with the 14.4 hp Polini...

on the GEBE drivetrain.:eek:

i can relate to Paul Teutul, Sr., head honcho on the "AMERICAN CHOPPER" show.

Myron
 
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B

BTB Wild

Guest
Changed my Mind

I was going to place an order through Stanton but at the 11th hour, changed my mind to GEBE. This is my first motorized bike and after evaluating many posts here, looking at system photos, running comparison pros and cons etc.
I believe I made the right decision. A GEBE system remains very much a bicycle experience. Free pedaling, a drive belt that easily pops on and off, no grease, considerably less weight, quick gear change options etc.
If I wanted more power I would have bought a scooter or motorcycle. Grey areas of illegality are a concern too. The GEBE is a great "hybrid" system IMO and it's still very much a bicycle.
 
D

dbigkahunna

Guest
Everyone talks about belt vs chain. How about friction drives. They are the simplest. They do have their drawbacks. I have two Demension Edge with 49 cc Tecumch engines. One is a direct drive where I pedal and it starts. I have to be careful when stopping to be sure I have it in low gear or it is a bear to turn over. THe other DE kit has a lever as per the original intention where the engine is lifted off the tire with a kill switch to stop the engine. My third fit is a centifugal clutch. Let off the throttle and it quits driving the tire. All of these drives are a compromise. You give up one thing to gain another. The Staton is tough and robust, where the GEBE is slick and smooth. The friction scrubber drives are basic puttin for fun, but not worth much in wet weather.
 
5

5-7HEAVEN

Guest
:cool:I have STATON friction drive and gear chain drive. friction was my first, and a good system to break into the motorized world. gear drive was a logical 2nd choice for me.

NuVinci is next.

Myron
 
D

DougC

Guest
:cool:Doug, with no gear reduction, be prepared for 10tooth-150-tooth sprockets.

that'd be about the size of the GEBE sheave pulley.

Myron
McMaster-Carr has 96-tooth sprockets that are about 15.5" diameter for $70, and 112-tooth that are a bit over 18" for $100. These are for #40 and #41 chains. I'd probably cut the centers of these out, and attach them to the spokes Whizzer-style, or even attach mounting bands to the rim itself.

It might not take anything that big however. I'd probably go find out what size rear sprocket the Lifan engines normally used on cycles (for whatever engine size I picked) and then figure out the sprocket:wheel diameter ratio, and then I'd need a sprocket that matched a bicycle wheel to that ratio.

And RnR sells some big sprockets there w/chains, for only $50.

-----

That all is a ways off though.
That 100cc looks pretty nice for $300--4 speed automatic, electric start, 12-volt electrics, and only 3 lbs heavier than the 50cc... :D
~
 
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