If it is the 6 hole sprocket/rotor bolt on mags you have, you will first need to order the basic setup like this.
You will also need to order separate 203mm rotor for the rear in order to clear the brake caliper attachment from the 36 tooth sprocket you will also need to order, that will work with this setup...You will not be able to use a larger sprocket than a 36 tooth or else the caliper will not fit over the disk rotor due to space constraints with the sprocket hitting it.
You will also need this spacer/adapter that goes between the rear sprocket and disk rotor...I have no idea what they call it or how to find it online...This is what comes with the mags I ordered three years ago, and it is the only one that will give you just enough clearance on a normal store bought bicycle that was not originally built for motorized bike use without having to adapt and weld your rear frame to fit this in...Here is a pic of my spacer/adapter before it was installed on my bike.
Add to this the freewheel rear pedal sprocket you will also need for this to work...it is a 22 tooth so you will probably need to add links to the pedal chain.
www.bikeberry.com
It is also advised to order a dual pull brake lever as the clutch lever will already be taking the place of the normal single pull brake lever on the left side of the handlebars.
After all this, If you haven't read what it took me to install all this, here is to how I did it to get everything to fit.
I don't recommend this method on an aluminum frame because it would probably crack and break, but this is what i did on my Steel Frame Hyper Beach Cruiser to accomodate the rear sprocket and disk to fit within the dropouts and frame.
On my bike, (steel frame ONLY), i had to "stretch" the rear forks apart by hand, about 1/2 an inch to put the rear wheel with sprocket/rotor attached, and then use a spare 15MM axle nut on the sprocket/rotor inside of the drop down, threaded to the axle with blue locktite, to maintain that amount of "stretch" to accommodate the amount of of clearance space the rotor needs so as not to be pressed against the frame.
It helps to have a buddy with a strong pair of hands to help in this proceedure like I did...lol.
As you now may see, it is quite a bit more expensive to do it the way you want to go, versus the way I went about doing this.
You will also need to order separate 203mm rotor for the rear in order to clear the brake caliper attachment from the 36 tooth sprocket you will also need to order, that will work with this setup...You will not be able to use a larger sprocket than a 36 tooth or else the caliper will not fit over the disk rotor due to space constraints with the sprocket hitting it.
You will also need this spacer/adapter that goes between the rear sprocket and disk rotor...I have no idea what they call it or how to find it online...This is what comes with the mags I ordered three years ago, and it is the only one that will give you just enough clearance on a normal store bought bicycle that was not originally built for motorized bike use without having to adapt and weld your rear frame to fit this in...Here is a pic of my spacer/adapter before it was installed on my bike.
Add to this the freewheel rear pedal sprocket you will also need for this to work...it is a 22 tooth so you will probably need to add links to the pedal chain.
Sunlite Single Speed 22 Tooth Sprocket
The Sunlite Single Speed 22 Tooth Sprocket is what you need to eliminate any mods you need to make to a wheel, giving you a more secure rear wheel sprocket assembly.
www.bikeberry.com
It is also advised to order a dual pull brake lever as the clutch lever will already be taking the place of the normal single pull brake lever on the left side of the handlebars.
Amazon.com: Sunlite Alloy Dual Brake Lever: Automotive
Buy Sunlite Alloy Dual Brake Lever: Brake Levers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
After all this, If you haven't read what it took me to install all this, here is to how I did it to get everything to fit.
I don't recommend this method on an aluminum frame because it would probably crack and break, but this is what i did on my Steel Frame Hyper Beach Cruiser to accomodate the rear sprocket and disk to fit within the dropouts and frame.
On my bike, (steel frame ONLY), i had to "stretch" the rear forks apart by hand, about 1/2 an inch to put the rear wheel with sprocket/rotor attached, and then use a spare 15MM axle nut on the sprocket/rotor inside of the drop down, threaded to the axle with blue locktite, to maintain that amount of "stretch" to accommodate the amount of of clearance space the rotor needs so as not to be pressed against the frame.
It helps to have a buddy with a strong pair of hands to help in this proceedure like I did...lol.
As you now may see, it is quite a bit more expensive to do it the way you want to go, versus the way I went about doing this.
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