New Staton axle mounted kits

Did a 50+ mile ride today. The gear box has gotten quieter. Really liking the set up. Still waiting for different gears. I want to go with a higher gear ratio.
 
Would you now say that it's worth the $379 (without engine)?

What are it's notable superiorities & deteriorities, if any, over the older Staton kit?

Does it deliver more effective power to the rear wheel than other methods?

Any vulnerability or extra risk of damage or twisting off of the engine and (more fragile?) mount, from the sharp bumps when traversing pot holes and kerbs?
 
Last edited:
A friction drive is $189, so is it worth the $190 more??

Here are the positives.
1. No slip, meaning don't have to worry about roller tension or going through puddles.
2. There is virtually no drag when you are coasting or just want to pedal with the engine
off.
3. The engine seems quieter because it is down and behind me.

Negatives:
1. Price....ouch
2. Installing and changing flat is a pain! (compared to a friction drive)

Effective power? Compared to a properly adjusted friction drive, no it is not more effective.

There is no extra risk of damage or twisting off. It is mounted solid!

As I have posted before, I wanted a setup for my teenage boys. My fear with a friction drive is that they wouldn't pay attention to the roller tension and rip up the rear tire. Also, that they wouldn't avoid puddles and again rip up the rear tire. I wanted a system that was basically maintence and adjustment free. I have achieved that goal with this system. So, to answer the first question, Yes, it is worth the extra $190 to me.
 
Today is my 15 year old son's first solo trip on the axle mount.....

After school tomorrow he has a ortho appointment. Knowing he was going to have to pedal there, he asked if he could take the "Blur" (our nick name for the axle mount). It is a 3 mile ride from school to Ortho.

So, last night I jumped on my MB, told him to get the Blur and said "I'm not here, show me how you would do it". I followed him to school and then to the Ortho office. Normally when we ride he is following me and I set the pace and decide when and where to ride. This was his first time "leading". He drove half throttle for the first mile not confident in being in the lead. By the time we got to the third mile he was WOT. Right then I was glad I went with the Subaru 35 and not the Honda 50 LOL. He made complete stops at every stop sign and light and used hand signals at every turn. I wonder how long that will continue?? He did really well, except for attempting to make a illegal u-turn. (there was a sign saying no u-turn)

So, now it is the next morning and I just watched him drive away..... he made a complete stop at the stop sign at the end of the street. Think he did that because I was watching......
 
A friction drive is $189, so is it worth the $190 more??

Here are the positives.
1. No slip, meaning don't have to worry about roller tension or going through puddles.
2. There is virtually no drag when you are coasting or just want to pedal with the engine
off.
3. The engine seems quieter because it is down and behind me.

Negatives:
1. Price....ouch
2. Installing and changing flat is a pain! (compared to a friction drive)

Effective power? Compared to a properly adjusted friction drive, no it is not more effective.

There is no extra risk of damage or twisting off. It is mounted solid!

As I have posted before, I wanted a setup for my teenage boys. My fear with a friction drive is that they wouldn't pay attention to the roller tension and rip up the rear tire. Also, that they wouldn't avoid puddles and again rip up the rear tire. I wanted a system that was basically maintence and adjustment free. I have achieved that goal with this system. So, to answer the first question, Yes, it is worth the extra $190 to me.

That kit with safe's electric motor would be the stuff ! :unsure:

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?p=273957#post273957

P.s. I don't get it about the puddles. You sure don't want to splash water into the intake on that motor and you should not splash water on a hot motor.
 
Last edited:
Regarding puddles. The slightest amount of water (driven through) causes the friction roller to slip which causes tire wear. The impatient driver tends to just throttle through until the tire drys.
 
Puddles are bad. My wife remembers holes in the road better than I do.

When it rains these holes in the road called potholes fill with water.

I have been riding since 1968. Bicycles and goldwings and lots in between.

I don't care what I am riding, I try not to hit the puddles.

I don't like to ride in the rain either. Had some close calls.

Matt bought one of those made in China friction drive kits.

His friction drive setup did not tend to slip when wet and it had a 50cc 2 stroke motor.

To be clear. Staton friction drive rollers tend to slip when wet.

That is because Staton has not taken the time to study rollers and design one that won't.

p.s. $10 bikes from the yard sale are the best choice for boys that like to ride through the puddles.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top