Psycho Billy Cadillac

Hello All… new here. Wanted to post a build thread of my new bike. For now I’m just going to upload a few pictures. I thought I had already posted a few for a build contest but I can’t find them. I guess it was a different forum. I’ll start with the latest then when I have time I’ll post a few pics with an explanation of how I put it all together. Thank you for your time and allowing me to be here.

Please forgive the sequencing of these photos. I’m new at this and haven’t figured out quite how to put text next to each photo.

So I started out with a Micargi frame and a predator 212 hemi. I was going to install the motor vertically but I wanted the electric start and that somewhat prohibited me from doing so. I installed the wide crank set up from Affordable Go Karts. I just had to mill out the lower bracket for the sealed bearings. It worked out rather nicely. The lower tube on the Micargi frame is 1 3/8” inch. I cut the kickstand plate and the washer at the back end of the lower tube out and stuffed a 1 1/4” x 1/8” wall DOM tubing inside the lower tube about 16 inches long to add some structural integrity to the frame. Initially it was clear that the pipe wasn’t going to slide right in so I threw it in the freezer overnight…
it fit perfectly. My friend’s son welded two plates right below the seat and two plates at the tail end of the lower tube right in front of the rear wheel for more structural support. I ordered some 2” x 3” x 3/8“ 6061 aluminum angle and fabricated the lower rails for the motor mount. For aesthetics and a little weight savings I milled 1 inch holes along the aluminum rails with a step bit then bolted them to the lower frame tube using five 3/8” grade 8 bolts and nylon locknuts. I wanted to use a torque converter instead of a centrifugal clutch but using the whole assembly shifted the motor too far to the right to afford any sort of balance. I ended up making a pillow block out of 3” x 3” 6061 aluminum 3 1/2 inches long to house the bearings and jack shaft that carry the driven pulley and rear wheel drive sprocket. This enabled me to eliminate the plate that came with the torque converter, thereby shifting the motor to the left about an inch. It ended up exactly where it needed to be and all was right in Lugnut’s world. I used a 1/2” 6061 aluminum plate 5 3/8 inches wide by about 14 inches long to mount the motor and pillow block to. The belt drive required a specific distance between the crankshaft and the jack shaft. By using the documentation that came with the motor and a little trigonometry I was able to calculate the horizontal distance from the rear motor mount bolts to the center of the pillow block. It’s not adjustable; I didn’t see the need as there are four 3/8” grade 8 bolts with nylon lock nuts holding the motor to the plate and the same holding the pillow block to the plate creating an assembly that does not flex or slip. It worked out perfectly and again, all was right in Lugnut’s world. I milled pockets in the aluminum rails that I bolted to the frame to accommodate the nuts protruding through the half inch plate for the motor and pillow block. The whole assembly was then bolted to the aluminum rails using… you guessed it …four 3/8” grade 8 bolts. More to come…..
 

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Lugnut

New Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2021
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12
Here’s a view of the pillow block. Found a little chrome cap that just happened to fit, covering the bearings.
 

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Lugnut

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Jul 3, 2021
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Here’s a couple pics showing the aluminum rails for the motor mount. The 1st & 3rd pics show the pedal sprocket & rollers. I milled pockets in the underside of the 1/2” motor mount plate to accommodate the 3/8” grade 8 bolt heads that fasten the aluminum angle carrying the rollers to the aluminum angle rails. I had initially used a rubber roller before the sprocket which the chain cut though on my first test ride. I ended up milling out a little piece of the 1-1/4” DOM tubing that was used in the lower frame rail to accommodate two 1” x 3/8” bearings with a 3/8” ID. It’s secured with a … wait for it… 3/8” grade 8 bolt & nylon lock nut. I used a nylon washer for alignment purposes as the drive sprocket is situated a little bit to the right of where it should be. It works great but I believe it may lead to premature chain wear. The lower roller is a 1” rubber unit that experiences no stress. I cut a shallow groove in it to keep the chain running true when pedaling backwards, or pushing the bike backwards when the rear sprocket locks up. Works fine. I believe the rollers came from McMaster Car. In the 4th pic you can see where the bolts for the pillow block protrude through the rails.
 

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Lugnut

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Jul 3, 2021
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12
Finally I don’t have to plan so far ahead… ordered hydraulic brake setup from Go Power Sports… machined a caliper bracket from a chunk of 1/2” 6061 aluminum plate. Had to flip the banjo bolt & redirect the line to use it. It clamps on a 203mm Avid 6-bolt rotor. It’s a bit thin for this application but will lock the rear wheel up in a heartbeat.
Suggestions on a thicker rotor?
 

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DAMIEN1307

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Very nice job of hand making the caliper bracket.

Here is my hand made caliper bracket for my build...its made from 7075 T6 military aviation grade aluminum.

Out of curiosity, why is your bracket only held by just rear wheel nut and not by at least a secondary position to prevent it from eventually pivoting out of place which i can guarantee it will do ???.

I used the back end of the drop out part of the frame to brace against and used not only the rear wheel nut, but also bolted down at two more points to be sure it never moves...it is a safety issue as you dont want that to move one iota...DAMIEN
 

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Lugnut

New Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2021
Messages
12
Very nice job of hand making the caliper bracket.

Here is my hand made caliper bracket for my build...its made from 7075 T6 military aviation grade aluminum.

Out of curiosity, why is your bracket only held by just rear wheel nut and not by at least a secondary position to prevent it from eventually pivoting out of place which i can guarantee it will do ???.

I used the back end of the drop out part of the frame to brace against and used not only the rear wheel nut, but also bolted down at two more points to be sure it never moves...it is a safety issue as you dont want that to move one iota...DAMIEN
I machined a rail on the inside of the bracket that spans the full length of the frame’s 1/4” plate horizontal dropout, about 7/32” deep x 7/16” (axle diameter), 2-1/2” long. It ain’t twistin’ unless the axle’s loose, at which time I’ll have more pressing issues. The location for the axle does not and should not change, maintaining a specific relationship with the rotor. I appreciate your input though. Nice bracket, BTW.
 
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Lugnut

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Joined
Jul 3, 2021
Messages
12
Replaced the pedal chain roller with a sprocket from a chain tensioner I found on Amazon. No more slingin’ the chain. Works perfectly. Also fabricated much needed kickstand…. Folds up nicely.
 

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