Jackshaft SBP Shift Kit



Pablo

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Nov 9, 2007
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1,834
We will have stock this weekend. You can place your order now. Thanks!
 

MikeJ

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May 5, 2009
Messages
353
I am down to the last few actions for finishing installation of my shifter kit from SBP. I backed off of eating out and cut back on some vices and saved my money. Pay someone else to do the engineering work, make expensive mistakes and iron out the bugs before you get the kit, proven to be complete. If you have mechanical engineering ability and some fairly hefty machine shop equipment and lots of time, go for it. But if you want to ride some proven hardware, buy a kit. In the long run, I think you will save money and the hard work has been done. Read the on-line instructions completely; don't worry if you don't understand everything. Put in a couple of full weekend days and you could be done, riding with the best of the crowd.
 

Fabian

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Sep 8, 2009
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4,521
Hi MotheMan

I have only one thing to say - Just get yourself a SickBikeParts Shifter Kit - you will thank yourself for doing so.

I have one of their kits installed on my bike and it is sensational!

Fabian
 

MikeJ

Member
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
353
Get their kit.. You will never regret it.

Here is a tip... Use light touch of Locktite on the mounting bolts. I went for a ride today, intending to rack up another 125 miles or so. After getting started, I noted the bicycle frame and engine were vibrating, shaking much more than normal. I finally stopped before a catastrophic failure occurred. I found one of the bolts mating the shifter kit frame (vertical piece) to the engine mount casting had almost completely vibrated loose and unscrewed itself about eight full turns. That is a lot.

My bike is now at home, where it will receive a full mount bolt check, each one of them. If I can clean out the threads with brake cleaner, I am going to Blue locktite those bolts. I think Green Locktite would be better, it holds the bolt from twisting out, but will not make it nearly impossible to back out the bolt when I want it to back out (Blue Locktite has that characteristic).

Understand that you may have to get to them someday yourself to tighten them down.

My bike has over 500 miles on it. If I can tighten those bolts, maybe tomorrow it will return with over 625 on the odometer.

MikeJ
 

MikeJ

Member
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
353
Just for future reference on this shift kit...

I had to remove the jackshaft assembly to get to the engine-mount bolts (5 mm hex wrench required). Both bolts had gradually worked loose during the previous 500 miles of riding; the engine shook really badly during riding because they both were so loose.

The small tooth sprocket (1/8 inch hex wrench required) refused to budge when i first tried to remove it; blue locktite locked it into place. Rather than me beat on it, I used a 3-arm gear puller; I use the puller to remove timing gears off Chevy engines. It worked great and did not abuse the other shaft components.

After removing the clutch arm side of the frame, push the jackshaft backward toward the tire, and it comes right out. I did not have to loosen the big sprocket nor the locking collar. With the shaft out of the way, getting to the 5 mm hex wrench bolts was really easy. It also made cleaning to factory-new condition and inspection of the shaft equally easy. This time, I made sure the small sprocket was not locktite'd like it was during the first build.

MikeJ
 
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Fabian

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Sep 8, 2009
Messages
4,521
ONE WORD OF ADVISE TO USERS OF LOCTITE or THREADLOCK

On small screws and even medium sized screws, use a low strength threadlock, like Loctite 222.
I have found this has plently of holding power and it is used everywhere on my SickBikeParts Jackshaft Shift (shifter) Kit.
If you need to remove parts, the fastening nuts and bolts can be removed without heat being applied.

At the worst case scenario where nuts and bolts are coming loose with Loctite 222, you can always increase the holding power by using medium strength Loctite 243.
Use caution though with Loctite 243 as i've found it's holding power to be far stronger that the word "medium" would suggest, and on small screws/nuts you may need to use "heat" to soften the Loctite for parts removal.
 

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MikeJ

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May 5, 2009
Messages
353
Fabian is right.... I was a little confused, then I did a search on Loctite. At least 9 different products with different characteristics appeared. Some are high temperature tolerant. Some are for cylinder fittings. Purple and green are for low-strength needs. Red is for permanent fasteners. I have a bottle of 246, but it does not list. So don't get hung up on one number. Read the Loctite site and get smart about their products, then choose between green, purple, and blue. Personally, I am staying away from red Loctite.

MikeJ
 
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