So Who else hates working on the rear wheel of a 1 speed coaster brake cruiser?

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by bikejock, Apr 28, 2015.

  1. bikejock

    bikejock Member

    I was checking some stuff on my cruiser and getting it ready for motorization while I wait for my first 4 stroke kit. But I noticed its pretty frustrating trying to get the chain tension just right on these 1 speed coaster brake cruisers. It's not something I'm generally used to because my last bike had gears and V bakes. Pushing the rear wheel back enough and re bolting the rear axle on while trying to maintain the right amount of chain tension when putting the rear wheel back on is the most frustrating part. Anyone else think so to?

    At first glance a 1 speed cruiser looks very easy to work on and maintain the chain and other stuff but so far the front wheel is the easiest part of my cruiser to work with. Getting everything just right while putting the rear wheel back on is the hard part on a 1 speed cruiser. This Isn't a help question really, I'm just trying to make conversation.

  2. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    Yes, I know what you mean.

    But I do find single-speeds to be more easy than multi-speeds. If nothing else, with a coaster brake you can avoid a brake on the rim. This makes the entire wheel, and installation, a lot less complex.

    Here's something that might make it easier.
    Axle adjuster 01.jpg
    Axle adjuster 02.jpg

    You're seeing it here when it was in development. I'm using that very unit on my bike right now.

    Axle/chain adjustment is simple and easy now.
  3. bikejock

    bikejock Member

    That's a cool idea. I might put something like that together for my bike someday. I think it's the way the nuts are made because of the direction I turn my wrench that loosened the chain. The axle seems to move forward a little when I tighten the nuts. I'll leave my rear wheel off until I get my kit so I can install the sprocket.

    Also the nut on my coaster brake is a locknut which makes it more of a pain to work on. I minght replace that lock nut with a normal nut to make removing the coaster brake arm from the frame easier.

    As far as how easy it is compared to working on multi speed bikes & bikes with V brakes I found it much easier to drop in a rear wheel with an 8 speed gear cog & V brakes like the one on my back up mountain bike which doesn't have a motor.
  4. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    Again, I know what you mean.

    Don't you just hate it when you put your axle just where you want it, you tighten that lug and you actually feel that axle move to some spot where you don't want it?


    One other trick I've used is to carry a small strip of steel in my tool kit. I use this steel strip as a wedge to hold the axle where I want it while tightening. But this only works on some frames. If the frame doesn't have just the right spot to wedge it against, then it doesn't really do anything for you.

    But one heads up, too. You're likely to find that a multi-speed is more of a hassle when there's also an engine sprocket and chain to deal with. That plus the derrailleur, etc,. Don't get me wrong, though. I'm not saying that it can't be done.

    But it can be a headache.
  5. bikejock

    bikejock Member

    I managed to get the rear wheel back on ok. I'm taking my bike to the shop to get the 3 piece wide crank installed next week.

    My engine kit just came today and it was exactily what I ordered. A 4G kit. It's a real shame I can't use the origonal bearings and cups with the 3 piece included in the kit. Basically delayed the build because I have no tools to remove the origonal bearing cups. On the upside my chain ring in the kit is the same size and number of teeth as my crusiers stock chain ring sprocket.

    Also the engine fits in my frame like a glove. It's almost as if my cruiser was meant to have this motor. Can't wait to start driving it when it's done.
  6. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    Use an angled door stopper to put tension between the frame and tire, when tension is good tighten her up. Don't tighten one side tight then the other side. Tighten one side snug then other side snug, next round tighten them.
  7. sawdust

    sawdust Member

    How about some pictures of your build?
  8. msamigo

    msamigo Member

    Bike Bug Rear Axle Wheel Tensions - Keeps rear axle and chain aligned and straight. Easy to install and adjust. High strength steel and lock nut for easy adjustment and super hold in place.
  9. mrbg

    mrbg Member

    They sell wide set one piece cranks, pistonbikes sells them. I got mine off of eBay
  10. 2 things help in tensiong a chain(s) on my coaster brake motored bikes

    chain tensioner.jpg 1) these things. circle-y part goes over your axle, the bolt part lays in the axle slot of the frame dropout, the folded piece grabs the end of the dropout, and the nut draws the axle/wheel back. then tighten the axle nut. (i make my own- weld a washer to a threaded rod, bend a fender washer to be the grabber)

    2) try disengaging the clutch (mine has a button to hold it) or take out your spark plug while tensioning. This will let you more easily rotate the rear wheel (and the chain) so you can work the slack out. "Free wheels" do not give me the same trouble