Tell me why I shouldn't buy Staton friction drive

T

TWalker

Guest
Before I order I want any bad points brought out. Obviously friction drive is less desirable but it fits my budget and needs for now. This kit may be switched onto 2-3 different bikes as a demo for others and a friction drive is easily switched. Never owned friction drive but I already know it beats the heck out of HT chain alignment problems,adjustments, noise, drag and dirty frame...how could it not be better?

The only drawback seems to slippage and tire wear...but how big an issue before I drop the 500? How many approximate miles before tire replacment?

The more I look at Staton friction I wonder why I was so against it:

Pros:

  • Non-inavasive to wheel eliminating pressure on spokes & lateral stress
  • Eliminates chains & sprockets and the dirty oily frame

  • Its simple- less moving parts
  • Installs/uninstalls much quicker

Cons:
  • It slips in wet weather.... period (or are there any workarounds)
  • It wears out your tire more quickly


This is the one:

http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=3193



FDR-430-1.50 Mitsubishi 43 cc 2.2 hp Very Quiet two cycle engine, mix at 40 to 1 ratio. This kit comes with the Dual Supports at no extra charge. This engine is VERY Quiet and has 37.5% MORE power then the Honda GX35 or the Robin EHO35. This engine is CARB Phase II Approved for use in California. The 1.50 inch OD Drive roller, Great Power and a fast top speed. Up to 40+ mph.
 
S

SirJakesus

Guest
I would agree that friction drive is better than a happytime. It freewheels and has a quality engine. Gearing changes should be easier than most systems as well. The only reason I wouldn't personally get a friction drive for my own use is because the hills are killers around here and it rains pretty often. I've heard people had good success with their friction kits even ridden hard. I'd say go for it but remember, if you hold out for just a while longer you may be able to afford a better chain driven system and you won't have to double purchase to upgrade later.

The TLE43 is an excellent engine BTW.
 

Esteban

Active Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2006
Messages
1,028
I see that you live in N.M. If you are not in a hilly area, the Staton kit will serve you well, just operate it as directed & you will see little slippage, tire wear, etc.
 
T

TWalker

Guest
Sierra Blanca - IE WHITE MOUNTAIN.

I live at the foot of a 12,000 foot peak in the southern point of the Rocky mountains. I can get the chain drive 33 Robin but I'm not sure it has enough torque to get up the hills. I would like to give the friction drive a try.

We've been using happytimes and they work ok for all but the steepest grades.

Maybe I should just bite the bullet and pay for a bigger engine and direct drive.
 

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J

JemmaUK

Guest
I live at the foot of a 12,000 foot peak in the southern point of the Rocky mountains. I can get the chain drive 33 Robin but I'm not sure it has enough torque to get up the hills. I would like to give the friction drive a try.

We've been using happytimes and they work ok for all but the steepest grades.

Maybe I should just bite the bullet and pay for a bigger engine and direct drive.

Friction drives are not the way to go in that situation ...

The thing would be slipping more that it'd be driving and would have your tire to bits

GEBE belt with the hill climb gears would do it on the 32cc & 40cc tanaka engines.

Staton chain drive would also do the trick - but best with a two stroke again

4 strokes just would wheeze out unless you spent alot of money on the nuvinci transmission and even then...

Jemma xx
 
L

Large Filipino

Guest
If I only ride for pleasure and only when it's beautiful out and not too many hills then I would go for a friction drive in a second. I mean how much are tires anyway?
But I log on some SERIOUS miles on my bikes,rain or shine or snow or even hail.
Now a friction drive for a second or third bike may be fun.
 
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