Tips I've learned from many builds-great newbie read.

[Mossy]

15mm id x 20mm od x metric in an index of thickness .5 ,.025 1.025 are the common to china motor.. super rat is 17mm x 24 or something... I got an assortment from a company in France that specialized in shims for electric motors... So the crank isn't loose in the case and centered in the bore

 

[Street Ryderz]

To put a thicker base gasket... Smolik ballenced crank 40mm

Ok so you want to sand the bottom of jug to use a thicker base gasket ? Sorry but that makes no sense to me!
You are not making sense, I've been building these engines up since 02 for people and myself and the castings have not changed on the case half edges/sides, If your bevel gear is not lined up to your liking when the crank is centered you have to cut the cranks tapper in a bit to get full tooth engagement, Soft bevel gears were the problem with chewed up ones or the crank bearing went bad it's not that common I've ony had two bad ones in twenty years and one just broke so again I don't get what your saying!

 

[Street Ryderz]

15mm id x 20mm od x metric in an index of thickness .5 ,.025 1.025 are the common to china motor.. super rat is 17mm x 24 or something... I got an assortment from a company in France that specialized in shims for electric motors... So the crank isn't loose in the case and centered in the bore

Dude these are crank shims they are not .5 or even close, and if you are sanding the case half's you are reducing the space and would have to remove shims not add them, also most clutch shaft's barely fit between the bearings to begin with unless you compress the spring some by turning in the adjuster/retainer to make it fit properly.

 

[Mossy]

.0005 or 05 lol I see my mistake lol... But really the crank shims make the motor I like to slide the case around also mostly so the gasket don't leak I don't like pulling out the crank it's just so fragile and I swap out for the ballenced ones arrow smolik the factory ones drilled 15mm holes

I want to get into trueing and Ballance on the heavy worksman 11ga wheels... Without having stick on wheel weights fly off like bullets

 

[Ken]

It gives the lock washer something to bite down on and not the part itself...

I disagree and think you are wrong.

 

[Wrench]

There are two types of Lock Washers
Split (spring) lock washers
Toothed (internal or external) lock washers.

Toothed lock washers Bite the bolt head and the surface and are used without a flat washer
Toothed lock washers keep their bite in high heat applications


Split Lock washers exert a spring tension that keeps the fastener from vibrating loose. It's not the bite.
Since it's not the bite and it's the spring tension, a flat washer is used to distribute the clamping force of the bolt across the surface
Not so much as to prevent the surface from being gouged, all though using a flat washer prevents the surface from being gouged
Split lock washers loose their spring strength if used in high heat applications


However there has always been a great debate on this subject, To use a flat washer with a split lock washer or not
Because they work with or without a flat washer.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

There are two types of Lock Washers

You forget the third type of lock washer...The wavy or wave lock washers that are "springy" which i use on occasion...lol...DAMIEN

 

[Wrench]

You forget the third type of lock washer...The wavy or wave lock washers that are "springy" which i use on occasion...lol...DAMIEN

split or wavy lock washers = spring

 

[Zingzing29]

Make sure your brake cables are tight on the caliper. I use disks and I've never used loctite on them. But one of the last things you want to fail. Also put the sprocket on a flat surface to check to see how true it is or bent. Had a bent on that cause the chain to hop and snap bending my frame.

 

[Risk Man]

There are two types of Lock Washers
Split (spring) lock washers
Toothed (internal or external) lock washers.

Toothed lock washers Bite the bolt head and the surface and are used without a flat washer
Toothed lock washers keep their bite in high heat applications


Split Lock washers exert a spring tension that keeps the fastener from vibrating loose. It's not the bite.
Since it's not the bite and it's the spring tension, a flat washer is used to distribute the clamping force of the bolt across the surface
Not so much as to prevent the surface from being gouged, all though using a flat washer prevents the surface from being gouged
Split lock washers loose their spring strength if used in high heat applications


However there has always been a great debate on this subject, To use a flat washer with a split lock washer or not
Because they work with or without a flat washer.

What about the "cone" shaped "spring" washers? Not easy to find but I hear they are good for the head bolts.