Trek 4500/ GP460 now Staton 18.75 Drive

well it IS a GEBE, i was going to take the pic before i put it back on but was impatient to try it.

i had pulled the clutch drum out of the drive yesterday so i had room to mount the engine to it,and that's what i did. then i looked at the pipe from all angles and started pinging it.

i have the pipe back off now in preparation of thread locking the bolts over night, so i'll get another better pic, but not of the gear box, i don't want to pull the whole thing back apart.

forgot to mention before that the dents changed the sound of the pipe and nearly cancelled out that rattley / pinging 2 stroke sound and gave it a very purposeful REALLY HUGE HORNET kind of deep humming drone.

time will tell if it seems to be much dif. actually driving the gear box, but i fit does i can always go with the x-port and possibly hang onto some of my mid-top gains. they really are much larger than the lowend loss.

i'll get a pic of the engine and pipe mounted to the gear box after i get my clutch drum, gear and chain from UPS, should have them by Sat. i'm really going to have to move to get my engine rack done now.

more later,
steve
 

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yes, the dent in the throat clears the corner of the gaer box and the dent in the lower rear chamber clears the rear, now "upper" mounting lug. i'll also be using that lug and hole as the anchor for my new pipe mount bracket that will attach to the web between the chamber and the silencer.

steve
 
Nuts, got my delivery notice from UPS this morning, their going to mess around till Monday.

by the way, i rode to work this morning and found i must have been timid with it yesterday, there is NO lower 1/3 loss and the upper 2/3 is just amazing. 30-55mph is nuts and it's not just how fast it accel's through that range. it's torquey strong too. on the few hills on my ride where i was giving up rpms and 1-2 mph i was actually able to gain speed today.

i'll really be happy when someone buys my GEBE setup, i posted a new price by the way.

steve
 
I may sell mine as well. I was thinking about keeping it around for my wife's bike, but I will probably want to put together a chain setup for her as well. She has just been dying for a chain setup of her own! :devilish:

I really hope I can do something with this dom pipe when I get it. We shall see. I still haven't been able to get ahold of Staton to ask them about the cone in the center of the clutch drum. That phone is busy all the time.
 
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appye,

maintaining the lengths and relationships of the segments on the Dom. while modifying it is the most important. you MUST end up with the same overall length from the flange to the begining of the expansion chamber.

i've gone thru the mod for your application.

carefully grind the welds loose at the 1-2, 2-3 segment joints to preserve the pipe lengths and configurations.

turn the #1 ( flange ) segment upside down so it points up and to the right, fasten to engine. replace the #2 "u" shaped segment with a 90* segment the same total outside radius length, fasten that to #1 at 90* ( parallel to flange). put the expansion chamber on the end of #2, rotate the chamber down and to the right so that it curves toward the back and the silencer is under the chamber. weld it up.

this is the way i was going till i decided to risk denting mine. you however will see that route won't work for you.

good luck,
steve
 
The main thing I am worried about with welding is that I am wondering if the pipe material is too thin to get a reliable weld. I will show things to my friend and he will tell me if he can do it. At this point it seems that I don't have a whole lot to lose...
 
woo hoo!!

got my staton drive today.

OH SNAP!! my clutch bottoms against the inside of the clutch bell before the cases mate up.

the attache dpic will show the problem, the staton bell has a raised lug in the center, the unit on the right is the stock GP460 bell, the GEBE clutch bell is totally flat and clear in the center.

i've found another clutch bell on the staton site with a welded shaft that i hope will deal with this issue but it doesn't have a pic of the interior so i can't be sure yet. someone know if this welded bell is what i need ?

the other problem is that the inside gear AND the clutch bell seem to be threaded onto the shaft from both sides and i don't seem to be able to break either one loose !! any suggestions on how to attack this ?

as a side note, the Staton 18.75 gear drive doesn't allow enough room for my dominator pipe. i've looked this over pretty good and indentified the way to alter the Dom. to narrow and raise it out of the way.

ANY pointers and comments apprec'd,thanks.

steve

EDIT- ps, anyone have a 16T output sprocket they want to sell ? this one came with a 11T and according to my calc's it's going to be about a 30mph topend and CRAZY bottomend acceleration.

it has come to my attention that my comments here about the odd clutch drum in my SECOND HAND Staton gear box has been read by some people to suggest that the clutch drums in drive boxes they are expecting from Staton may be of the same type and cause the same problems leading them to call David and quiz him over it, mkaing it very difficult for him to get his work out.

NOW HEAR THIS, THE CLUTCH DRUM IN MY UNIT WAS A CUSTOM DESIGN ARRANGEMENT FOR A PREVIOUS APPLICATION.

THE GEAR BOX YOU ORDERED FROM DAVID WILL ARRIVE WITH THE PROPER PARTS FOR YOUR STATED APPLICATION THE FIRST TIME.

PLEASE STOP /OR DON'T CALL DAVID ABOUT THIS, IT IS NOT A VALID CONCERN .

please PM ME if you feel you need more information about this drum or other features of my mounting intentions.

David and especialy I thank you. sorry to seem to be yelling but the point is real important and the number of calls being generated by this IS negatively affecting David's productivity.

thanks,
steve
 
LOL! ... and DOUBLE LOL!

Now not so many people will be scared by that abrupt Oklahoma bluntness!

...oops. I didn't just say that publicly... Sorry Mr. Staton, sir.
 
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