They kinda can be, this is a list of everything that's either made the bike not run or I've simply had to fix over the last 2-3 months (most of it in the first month)
Petcock broke off (dumping all my fuel onto my right leg)
Fuel tank mounting lug ripped (dumping all my fuel onto my left leg)
Blown headgasket
Fried CDI (two in a week)
Chain tensioner shifting (like 5 goddamn times)
Chain stretching
Rubber mounts getting cut by spokes causing the sprocket to wobble and throw the chain
Carb leaking where it mounts (mix leaned and it wouldn't run)
Main jet housing unscrewing and falling into the bowl (on 2 f***ing carbs in one day)
Engine mounting bolts rattling loose and falling off despite locktite
Engine mounting bolts snapping mid ride (cheap ebay motor)
Engine seizing because of too little oil in the mix (Thought I could make the .6 mile ride from the gas station to my oil bottle, in hind sight running it balls out was stupid. This was on the garbage ebay motor) After cooling off for 5 mins it cycled freely, has some deep scoring on the exhaust side of the piston now.
Intake rattling loose (mix leaned out, it wouldn't run)
Sparkplug rattled loose and fell out (NEVER grab a plug that just popped out of the motor, smoke came off of my finger tips when I touched it)
Exhaust rattling loose (killed the motor to pedal home as the studs were to hot to touch and I didn't want to have the pipe fall off)
Head vibrating loose and losing compression despite red locktite
Had to adjust the flower nut on the clutch plate since it wouldn't release.
Petcock handle broke off
Had to adjust the flower nut tighter by literally 1/6th of a turn to keep the clutch from slipping on acceleration.
Had to retighten the locktite'd motor mounts, again.
Clear fuel line turned rock hard, cracked, and started leaking like a sieve.
Clutch flower nut adjustment, AGAIN.
Had to replace the rear brake pads, the stock ones burnt up in just 2 months (I've NEVER in my life had to replace bike brake pads)
It's truly hard to say how much money I've spent on this project, off of the top of my head I know I've purchased the following:
Ebay motor kit - $90
Zeda Motorsports "poor boy" kit - $240
Bike berry 3.75l gas tank, 36t sprocket, misc hardware - $70ish
zeda 88 expansion chamber pipe (huuuuuge ripoff) - $70ish
Lightly used MZ65 pipe (a must have) - $75
Dual brake lever - $13
Chain breaker - $16
Replacement head and aluminum gasket - $15ish
Gasket kit with aluminum head gasket - $8ish
2x CDIs (always keep spares, they are easy to blow) $14
Engine mounted spring chain tensioner - $16
ebike brake pads (must have) - $19
10ft roll of fuel line - $6
CNC sprocket hub adapter 1in- $36
32t sprocket, 3 hole for adapter - $13
Tach - $15
Double leg middle mount kick stand - $13
22mm muffler - $20
Mirrors - $20
So far that is $769 on just parts, that's not including buying misc hardware, gas, oil, random needed tools, and most importantly, my time.
In exchange for that near $800 I have a bike that now runs well enough to do a 20 mile trip without a single hiccup, starts easy, isn't too loud (still loud), accelerates quickly, and it can go 36 mph on a 44t sprocket. I'll be swapping to the 32t and CNC adapter later today. Hopefully with the inherent adjustability the CNC adapter has, I can eliminate some chain alignment issues I have. If you try to run the bike in gear on the kickstand, with no load the chain catches the edge of the teeth of the rear sprocket making the bike jump along with making a nasty noise. While under load the chain has no problems smoothly meshing. Rag joints are complete garbage IMO.
If I could go back, I'd take that $800 and either go with a 1kw rear hub + 52v battery, or I'd add another $2-300 and get either a BBS02 + battery kit or spend a bit more for a BBSHD + battery kit. Either way, I'd go electric to save the hassle.