Jackshaft Better than Jackshafting?

I think you are overstating your position Fabian.
If you are heavy and there are significant street inclines where you live and you want full range of speed, then the shift kit is necessary.
That is if you are unable to do all the necessary mods. A fully modified 66cc can carry a big person up hills without having to use a big rear sprocket.
But maybe only 2% of the people on this forum have the capacity to do all that is needed.
 
I'm a big guy, about 220 pounds, and I have no trouble getting up a hill even with tall gearing. it's all in the ports and the pipe.
 
I like 4-stroke bicycle engines for a number of reasons, and i also like 2-stroke bicycle engines for a number of reasons, as well as electric motors for a number of reasons, many reasons actually.

Same here, but about the only time I consider 2-stroke these days is when weight is crucial.

Thankfully the SickBikeParts shift kit allows these engines to be a properly functional form of motive power.
Without the shift kit, the common (single speed) bicycle engine conversions are a waste of time.

Well, anything that runs isn't a waste, but one thing is for sure, once you ride a shifter you never want to go back to direct drive ;-}
 
Does the crank arm below bolt on to standard bottom bracket spindles? I'm guessing the crank arm with sprockets below does the following,

GT2redBuild3-1280.jpg



1) allows the pedals to remain stationary if the rider chooses even if the engine is delivering power to the rear wheel,

2) allows the engine to power the rear wheel,

3) allows the rider to power the rear wheel.

How much?

Thanks!

Also the spoke pattern above, looks like 4-cross, makes the wheel very strong when power is delivered to the wheel or when you are braking?
 
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Does the crank arm below bolt on to standard bottom bracket spindles? I'm guessing the crank arm with sprockets below does the following...

1) allows the pedals to remain stationary if the rider chooses even if the engine is delivering power to the rear wheel,
2) allows the engine to power the rear wheel,
3) allows the rider to power the rear wheel.
Correct.
And the big output pulley in my 10G long shaft is also a freewheel so there is minimal drag when pedaling without engine help.
The pedal shaft is special, it has a slot for the sprocket pair key.

I'll PM you about the rest.
 
Does the crank arm below bolt on to standard bottom bracket spindles? I'm guessing the crank arm with sprockets below does the following,

GT2redBuild3-1280.jpg



1) allows the pedals to remain stationary if the rider chooses even if the engine is delivering power to the rear wheel,

2) allows the engine to power the rear wheel,

3) allows the rider to power the rear wheel.

How much?

Thanks!

Also the spoke pattern above, looks like 4-cross, makes the wheel very strong when power is delivered to the wheel or when you are braking?
Well that spoke lacing is definitely 4 cross, funny enough I just laced a wheel for somebody with 4 cross. The pattern will give more instantaneous power transfer, and braking power (disk and coaster brakes only.) Don't expect huge differences, they'll be there, but not like the riding differences between direct drive vs shift kits, just a small difference.

If you're hitting trails, go 3 cross, 4 cross is less resistant to side loading (like leaning the bike hard into a turn, lots of bumps) and can get out of true easier, and 3 cross adds to the shock resistance from all angles better than 4.

(and 4 cross is a pain in the ass to lace properly, do 3 and save trouble, losing a spoke under 3 cross is also less bad for stability)

Don't poke yourself in the eye with spokes, it hurts.
 
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