Board Track/Street Build

Hey there... So we're going to do this one properly..!

Originally, I was going to go with a dedicated board track racer, but this idea became a little too cost prohibitive. With the frames at around $350 USD, that would be almost $500 by the time it got to Oz. And that's not even with the tank. In reality I was probably looking at around $1k AUD just in the frame..!So what I've decided on now is a hybrid street/board track. GT-5 frame with double springer front end, board track style bars and seat set up. Best of both worlds..!

The idea is to have quality parts and running gear throughout, sourced from both bike and motorcycle brands. This thing will be fast so it has to be safe as well - plus it's not exactly legal to be riding these things on the street where I come from. It will be built around a Fred's Superhammer that I got customised with a 6cc decomp head, 17mm Delorto style PHBG carb, and RM80 exhaust. I live in a flat coastal area at sea level, so it will be turning a 30 or 32T sprocket - see how we go. Thinking of a dark frame colour (gunmetal grey??) that will be offset with anodised gold running gear and parts.

Anyway, here's a list of parts and specs with some photos of goodies I've been sourcing for a few months now. The frame is still around 2 weeks away but the hold up will be the forks. Anyone know where else apart from Bicycle Designer I can source Cuda Double Springer forks from..??!

Cheers
Crisco

• Frame: Alloy GT-2A with pedal stool mount
• Forks: Cuda Double Springer
• Bars: Moon cruiser flipped
• Engine: Fred GT-5 Super hammer 6cc with decomp
• Carb: 17mm Delorto style PHBG with velocity stack
• Ignition: Superoo sealed magneto with HD Lighning
• Exhaust: RM80 Expansion (one in photo is KX80 but it's going on Ebay as it's wrong side)
• Front Brake: Hydraulic SRAM Guide R 4-piston with SRAM 200mm Centreline rotor. Master cylinder will be swapped to gold anodised moto-x style
• Crankset: Sugino RD2 Messenger 165mm 44T with sealed BB68
• Wheels: Custom build by LBS with Novatec disc hubs. QR skewers to be replaced with solid axles
• Tyres: Kenda Flame 26 x 2.125
• Chains: KMC710/KMCX9
• Seat: Leather 3 spring with layed back seatpost
• Sprocket: Disc brake hub adaptor with 30/32T manic style sprocket
• Cabling: Jagwire gold braid

 

[KCvale]

Ive seen people run 3" wide tires on these forks before. Some with fenders.

Well duhh heehehe ;-}
My example bike is running 3" wide 26" tall tires, but as far as fitting taller tires like 29" just won't fit.

 

[Frankenstein]

13 and15/16" center of axle to top inside of front fork.View media item 60795View media item 60794

Well there's my answer, with a wheel that sits around 32 inches high that won't fit a fork that only almost takes one that stands 28..

But I still don't have a complete answer, can you place a spacer on the actual steerer before putting it on the bike so that the yoke is naturally raised up to level the bike out.

 

[Frankenstein]

Ive read of people installing longer springs or adding spacers to the springs to raise the forks up.

On the diameter I don't know I recently got my 26" tires in and eyeballing the tire about where it should mount there is not much room between the top of a 26" tire and the secondary fork.

Yep if I mount the fender on the front fork where it moves in theory it will move with the wheel but I am afraid cause some people claim their front end suspension traveled enough for the fender to come into contact with the stationary fork and pushed the fender down into the wheel bending the fender.

Ideally I was leaning towards more of a full on fender to protect the down tube and engine from debris being thrown by the front tire. But I guess a shorty fender like in the photo will work as well.

I see what you mean about the rear fork slamming the fender, if I had time (and I kinda do sometimes) I would try to make a 2 part fender just for the hell of it, I found this picture of a nice moped and thought the fenders could be worth recreating.

 

[gary55]

Well there's my answer, with a wheel that sits around 32 inches high that won't fit a fork that only almost takes one that stands 28..

But I still don't have a complete answer, can you place a spacer on the actual steerer before putting it on the bike so that the yoke is naturally raised up to level the bike out.

I guess that you could space it up as far as the steer tube would allow in accordance to the head tube on your bike. You would need to sleeve the steer tube to receive the race at the top of the spacers. These forks come with different lengths of steer tubes so some research is in order. With a 27.5 rear and a 26 front 3/4" should get you level.View media item 60796

 

[gary55]

If your doing a lot of off road these are not really the answer.

 

[Frankenstein]

So fiND a tube that fit around the steer (red) but not bigger than the small shoulder, and then another piece (green) to fit outside that red tube and over the shoulder to keep the race drop moving past a certain spot (ideally whatever length needed to correct the height,) would that be correct?

 

[Frankenstein]

If your doing a lot of off road these are not really the answer.

Rarely get any off road, hardly any on road too since I've been very busy with life it seems this year. Maybe I'll finish the bike before Christmas.

 

[gary55]

So fiND a tube that fit around the steer (red) but not bigger than the small shoulder, and then another piece (green) to fit outside that red tube and over the shoulder to keep the race drop moving past a certain spot (ideally whatever length needed to correct the height,) would that be correct?View attachment 77933

That sounds about right to me

 

[Frankenstein]

That sounds about right to me

Ok good, at least I have a vague idea of the trouble I'd expect to face.

 

[gary55]

Ok good, at least I have a vague idea of the trouble I'd expect to face.

No more vague than mine.