Carby Carberator Replacement.. uhh... where to buy?

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by A_FITZ, Nov 2, 2010.

  1. A_FITZ

    A_FITZ Member

    So, heres my bike. All 4 pictures are there.

    I dont know WHAT engine I have or who its from. I bought the bike pre-made from someone who bought it from someone else.

    The Carburetor is leaking fuel. ....

    ..How much will it cost to me to get that specific part.., or can I buy that individually?

    I need a new Carburetor because my current one has a small, small crack where the fuel line gets secured.., and.., theres a small chunk and crack on the plastics for the air filter.

    lol. I want to fix it. .. To stop it from leaking fuel.

    .. Thanks.

  2. A_FITZ

    A_FITZ Member

    ALSO, if the CHOKE is set to ON instead of OFF on the Carburetor, will it leak fuel.. because of that?

    I bought this bike for $300 and currently it saves me no money in the long run by NOT driving it.

    but yeah the engine is not PERFECT, as a whole. Its not. ...... can I buy a Carburetor whole put together..., just by itself.
  3. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    that's a typical happy time 80 c.c. 2 stroke engine you have there (or to be more specific, 66 c.c.'s)
    just check on e-bay, and you can buy a complete, brand new carb exactly like what you have now for around $8.00 - $12.00 each (plus shipping). for example, click this link.

    you can also check one of the vendor sites that are listed to the left of this page.

    these carbs are cheap to buy and easy to find once you know what you're looking for and where to go.
  4. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    the choke has nothing to do with the flow of fuel. the choke only affects the air that is entering the carb. the carb will not leak fuel with the choke on.
  5. A_FITZ

    A_FITZ Member

    Thanks. I just went ahead and bought that.

    Also, maybe I need to buy a new fuel line? The bottom end of the line.., the screw in that screws into the carb.. it might be stripped a little. You never know. :idea:

    But.. yeah hopefully this is ALL I need to stop the fuel leak. Because it was leaking fuel big time out of the carburetor. :eek:

    When I wrench in the fuel line, ill try to be gentle so I don't crack the new one like this guy at "THE CYCLE DEN" probably did.:-/
  6. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    you should not have to "wrench" in the fuel line. the rubber line will slide right over the inlet fitting that is coming out of the carb. and it will be held in place with the barb that is on the fitting. if you have to "wrench" on the fitting, something is wrong because that fitting comes pre-installed on the carb.
    if you try to install your existing fitting into the new carb. you will have to remove the fitting on the new carb.
    do not do that because there is no need to remove the fitting. if you try to put your old fitting into the new carb, you may strip the threads in the new carb (if the threads on your existing fitting are messed up. cut that original fitting off of your fuel line, and just slide the fuel line onto the new fitting in the new carb.

    slide the fuel line onto the fitting and install either standard screw type hose clamps, or spring type hose clamps to hold the fuel line secure. (hose clamps at all ends of the fuel lines...i.e., the petcock end, fuel filter ends and carb fitting end)

    the fuel line you need is 1/4" i.d., same as standard lawnmower fuel line and you can buy it at almost any hardware store or automotive supply store for cheap.
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2010
  7. A_FITZ

    A_FITZ Member

    Oh, well glad someone told me to drain the tank.., disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor. Thats what I did yesterday.

    I had to wrench it off with a very, very small wrench.


    ... Well just waiting for the new Carburetor in the meantime. I can't do sh** from this point with a junk carburetor that has a small crack where the fuel line CAN go... by screwing it in. I can thank "The Professional" for that one. :death:
  8. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    my little brass hose nipple/ valve seat wasnt attached when i got my first engine....

    i think its up to the discretion of the guy in the factory... :p


    theres a simple fix here, besides the new carby...

    one. a small crack in the body of the carb where the brass fuel nipple screws in wont cause a leak IF THE FUEL LEVEL IS CORRECT. fuel wont get near it!

    now if its the actual brass part thats cracked, then yes, it will leak like a tap...

    two. fuel leaks out when you move the choke?

    i add these two things together and what answer do i get? the fuel levels too high. which is probably why you ended up with it, not running and sorta useless...

    "professionals" are the reason the world is the way it is... individual banks record profits of over 10billion a year while the source of profits (ie ppl) starve....
  9. A_FITZ

    A_FITZ Member

    I think fuel leaks whether the chokes on, or off.

    And I think both could be cracked.. :-/, the brass part, and the entry point of the body of the carb..

    :( I say this because yeah it was leaking like a tap.. :( Happened every time everything was hooked up and I turned the fuel valve arrow to ON.

  10. A_FITZ

    A_FITZ Member

    Alright guys.., todays the day I attempt to get my motor bike working again.

    I need to make it so it doesn't leak fuel anymore since that mechanic messed/screwed up the carburetor.

    I JUST got my New Carburetor in a few days ago. Today is the day im going to attempt to remove the old one, and replace it with the new one.

    Anyone have any advice before I work on it?

    -Alex Fitz
  11. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    taking the old carb off is pretty straightforward. loosen the screw & the nut that are on the clamp holding the carb to the tube. be careful because the screw and the nut are not high quality and you could round off the head of the screw.
    now slide the carb. off of the tube. your throttle cable will still be attached to the carb.
    you can do one of 2 things.

    #1, you can unscrew the top of the carb (the cap where the cable goes into it) and lift out the slide assembly. there will be the cable, a spring, the slide (a cylinder) and a needle. all of these parts will come out together and they will stay together because of the throttle cable.
    now you can remove the cap from the new carb, and remove the spring, slide and needle. (they will not stay together because there is no throttle cable) you can take your old slide assembly and slide it back into the new carb. but sometimes an old slide will not work in a new carb due to wear. this is a trial and error thing, but sometimes it works just fine. another thing is that the threads on the old cap may not mesh correctly with the threads on the new carb. again, this is trial and error.
    be sure to line up the long slot that's on the slide, with the pin that's inside the carb. on the left side. (look into the carb with the cap off, and you will see the little pin. the slide will go back in 2 different ways, but only one way is correct. you need to make sure that the long slot in the slide lines up with the pin. the short slot in the slide is where the idle screw rests.
    tighten the cap by hand and be careful not to cross thread it. once it's on all the way and snug you can GENTLY tighten it a little bit with pliers or channel locks just to be sure that it's tight. it does not have to be torqued on super tight, it just has to be snug so it won't vibrate loose or create an air leak. put the carb back on the intake tube making sure that it's pushed on as far as it can go before tightening the clamp.

    #2, you can do the same as above but when you remove the cap from your old carb, you can remove the slide, needle and spring by sliding the throttle cable down and out of the notch that it's in on the slide. you will have to compress the spring with your fingers to get the cable out. after you remove the slide, needle and spring, you can slide the old carb cap off of the cable.
    now, you will have to put the new cap, spring, slide and needle back on the cable (in that order) the needle should stay in the slide, but it may come out if you turn the slide upside down. if it does, just slide the needle back into the hole in the slide. the needle will have a horseshoe looking ring sitting on top of it and then the needle will have an "E" clip on one of the slots in it at the top. The horseshoe ring is not connected to anything, so it may fall careful because you need this peice. the slot in the horseshoe looking ring has to line up with where the cable goes in the slide.
    you will have to compress the spring with your fingers to get the cable back into the slot in the slide.
    look at your old slide assembly before you take it apart and you will see how it needs to go back together.

    again, be careful when screwing the carb cap on...the threads are not that good, and it can be cross threaded very easily. i suggest putting the cap and slide assembly on the carb before you install the carb onto the intake tube because you will have more room to work, and it will be easier to do with the carb in your hand.

    once it's all back together, slide the fuel line onto the inlet fitting, turn on the gas and check for leaks.
    if there's no leaks, take it for a ride.....and it's just that easy.
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2010
  12. A_FITZ

    A_FITZ Member


    I hooked everything up today..., does the needle (Golden) from end of the throttle cable need to go completely in that hole?

    When everythings hooked up, when I push to start, I can start with just the clutch only.. ((Not even touching the throttle))

    I think the throttle cables stuck and I didn't hook it up right. I might be missing that horseshoe too, mightve fell out. I still have it

    Anyway, did I do anything else wrong, because the throttle got stuck on me on high and it was scary. Don't want it to happen to me again :1:

    So again, the throttle on the right is stuck I think, with the lever moving it sometimes if not a all.
  13. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    omg, someone hand me a brick....
  14. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    more than likely you have the slide in the carb wrong.
    if the slide is not inserted correctly (long slot in the slide with the pin in the carb) the slide will stick and bind up, causing it to stick either all the way closed or all the way open.
    yes, the cable must seat all the way into the slot that it goes into.
    the horseshoe holds the needle from coming out of the slide once it's all assembled.
    yes, the needle goes into the hole the bottom of the carb.

    it also sounds liek you have your idle screw in too far..but i think thr high revs are because the slide is bound up and stuck.
  15. A_FITZ

    A_FITZ Member

    Now how would I be inserting it incorrectly?

    I tried lubing up the black tube because it is getting stuck and not flowing up and down free and loose.., but rather rugged.


    I mean everything seems perfect but that black tube in the carburetor like i said, doesn't move freely.
  16. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    like i said in my original post.....
    the slide can go into the carb in several different ways, but only 1 way is correct. line the long slot in the slide up with the pin in the carb and then push the slide in. it should go in smoothly with very little resistance. the pin in the carb is on the left side...on the inside of the carb where the slide goes in.
    OR, like i also said in my other post, your old slide MAY NOT WORK in the new carb due to wear issues, and possibly shape/size issues. not all slides are identical even if they come from the same style carbs.
    the "black tube" as you call it, is the slide.
    so when i say "slide" that is what i am talking about.
  17. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    it can be inserted incorrectly quite easily actually... i take it you will be surprised to say... a lot of ppl get it wrong.

    my only advice, mr fitz, is to do some study.

    theres lots of info on carbies.

    when you can return and say things like "needle" "jet" *c-clip* "cable outer casing" and know what those words mean, then assisting you will be made much simpler. (maybe even unneccesary)

    otherwise, me myself personally am not giving you any advice, considering that motorpsycho has already told you EVERYTHING THAT EVEN AN IDIOT COULD UNDERSTAND. and i think even he grows weary...

    theres only one "black tube" i know of and it seems to be the void within your skull....

    (****...that was advice...grrr!)
  18. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    There's basic info on these carbs, including part names, here.
  19. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    is this for real??? it is not THAT difficult!
  20. A_FITZ

    A_FITZ Member

    Ok guys, after many attempts, and resistance, this task is not for "AN IDIOT", but a patient man. And I believe I got the throttle right and if not psycho specified the right way


    Now something else went wrong. Again. The back tire locked up. Probably the clutch needs to be adjusted

    So..., ANOTHER PROBLEM! Again! : D

    Love these bikes I gotta tell ya! Their Stats are good for MPG but their reliability.. oh man. :23:

    So that is the status update of my bike

    Currently the bike is sitting in my shed, with the back tire locked up.

    Sidenote: I will say ive learned the mechanics mapping of where things go. Ive tinkered so far
    with the Fuel Valve, Fuel Line, and Carburetor along with that goes with the throttle.

    Now its probably going to be the actual engine.

    Again, this is a person with no mechanical experience really, im learning this with no help from anyone but myself and these forums, and I think im learning pretty fast for a beginner. Bash me if you will, but that carburetor will hurt your hands until you get it right, and your working with small, small pieces for this particular bike.
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2010