I cannot get my 1947 Whizzer H to start

[eric wolf]

I am getting spark at the end of the plug wire but not enough at the spark plug.
I installed the fiber washers under the coil cover bolts but am not sure if I am missing something here to cause a weak spark?
Can someone tell me how many volts, amps and ohms I should be getting at the wire?
Is there something wrong with the coil and how do I test it?
Thanks, Eric.

 

[eric wolf]

I am done my restoration but cannot get the motor to run, I have spark at the lead wire but very little at the plug, carb has gas, I have installed the insulator washer behind the coil cover bolts, did I miss something else here?
How many volts, amps and ohms should I be getting at the plug wire?

 

[eric wolf]

Can anyone help?

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Eric,

If you are using points, replace them with electronic module. I have never had issues with the fiber spacers under allen bolts, and have seen many running motors with metal washers holding the mag cover on.

Weak spark can be caused by several issues, weak magnets in flywheel, defective points, defective condenser [capacitor], semi fouled spark plug, distance from E-Bar [magneto] to flywheel.

Electronic module will eliminate many weak items in the ignition system, set magneto .008" to .010" from flywheel. If using module, reverse leads to determine hottest spark [determined by direction of magnets in flywheel]. If you don't have module be sure to purchase one with two lugs, not one as it may not work one way.

Check resistance from ground [E-Bar] to input and should show less than 2 ohms. Check E-bar to spark plug wire [where wire connect to spark plug, and should read approx. 5K. If coil is bad, there are aftermarket versions available [Memorylane Classics] for around $95.00

You are welcome to call me if you need more help with ignition system.

Have fun,

 

[mason_man]

Sounds like you have a weak condenser. Put a new one in,the charge goes there first, then bang the plug. I gave you some information back in April, what happened?

Ray

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Great thing about using the module is you don't use the condenser. The condenser is used to buffer the points to stop them from burning, and normally dries up with age and shorts or reduces the resistance. If the condenser opens motor will still fire, but points will flash burn and carbon up quickly reducing the contact and final fire. The module eliminates issues with the flywheel magnets, condenser & points. Most of the current Whizzer re-builders [myself included] always convert to the module. Most often the fire at the plug goes from a weak yellow to a crisp blue flame when converted to the module.
Modules are easy to find as they are simply points eliminator systems for small 4 stroke motors [Lawn mower motors]. Lots of Whizzer collectors offer them for sale [Fred White, Memory Lane classics, Whizzer Works, etc] and normally sell for $25.00 or less. Most often original points sell for more than the module, DUH.

Sadly I have 3 Whizzers that can't use the module, and of course they are always fouling plugs or very difficult to start, therefore I avoid riding those bikes [50 Sportsman, 51 Sportsman, 52 Pacemaker]. The motors [300-S, 600-S, and 700] have the alternator ignition system and must use the points to trigger the coil.

Have fun,