Tyler6357
Well-Known Member
I agree with KC, the motor should mount to the frame directly, any friction could weaken the frame.
New Engine Questions
KCvale
In memory of KCvale 1959 - 2019
Hehehe, I am not a fan of the Homey test and why I build the way I do ;-}
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
I'm presuming this is to correctly match the rear mount radius to the bike frame for full/better contact, rather than any vibration damping properties, so that aluminium strip bent and cut to make a shim should be just as good?
I certainly see the sense in getting as much contact in the mounts as possible. I might have a go at this (with aluminium as I don't even have any PVC pipe) tomorrow when I can be noisy.
crassius
Well-Known Member
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my thinking is that any sharp edge back there will eventually lead to metal fatigue in the frame - even a soft aluminum might create a stress riser there
my preference is hard leather, but that takes forever to pack down nice and solid, so I usually go with the PVC even tho that also takes a couple extra adjustments back there as it forms to both sides of the mount
the frames I see look like they crystallized and just snapped rather than having been cut
my preference is hard leather, but that takes forever to pack down nice and solid, so I usually go with the PVC even tho that also takes a couple extra adjustments back there as it forms to both sides of the mount
the frames I see look like they crystallized and just snapped rather than having been cut
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
I would certainly round off the edges of the shim, I agree about sharp edges. Idk if I have the right thickness of aluminium plate anyway.. I'll do some test fitting.
Personally I would not choose leather as it can rot, swell, hold saltwater, and the PVC sounds fine if I can't do it in aluminium.
KCvale
In memory of KCvale 1959 - 2019
The point is to not have any 'sharp edges'.
You mount the back of the engine metal to metal dead flush with the seat post no matter what because that is the power transfer point!
You mount the back of the engine metal to metal dead flush with the seat post no matter what because that is the power transfer point!
B
Bern Rocks
Guest
I would recommend getting rid of all the kit lock washers and buying a better grade. I noticed that after tightening and re-tightening that they flattened out and didn't have much spring to them. I'm sure to save cost they use a low grade of hardware.
To save money I made my own engine mounts using a 2 in dia. x 2 in. DWC Flexible PVC pipe coupling. The wall thickness is about 1/4 in. You can find them in the plumbing dept in a hardware store. I discarded the clamps. Using a hot utility knife I cut the length in half. Then I cut the diameter up in 4 equal sections. I cut out the edges so the studs would fit. While making these mounts you just have to use your own judgement to suit your own needs. The diameters are not the same so I force them into the engine brackets while tightening them together. You may have to replace the studs or lengthen them by turning them out a few turns. Or you can just buy the mount that sell on line for $15.00. Good Luck
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KCvale
In memory of KCvale 1959 - 2019
Welcome guest Bern Rocks, that is some unreadable run-on post but I managed to get through it.
I suggest you read this entire 2 page topic before posting the absolute worst way to mount an engine.
I suggest you read this entire 2 page topic before posting the absolute worst way to mount an engine.
D
Deleted member 27811
Guest
I concur KC. Indeed I do Sir. Metal 2 Metal I always say to those who ASK.
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