Pre-build checklist: Things all new owners should do with these 2 stroke kits...

Discussion in 'Photos & Bicycle Builds' started by rumme, Jun 14, 2008.

  1. rumme

    rumme Member

    I thought this thread might make a good " sticky thread" to be permanently posted at the top of this specific forum if the moderators agreed. It would be a thread totally devoted to things that need to be done/ checked before running a new engine :

    1. Clean out gas tank because it may have metal filings in it and install a inline fuel filter.

    2. Dont use the stock method for shutting engine off. Purchase a switch and hook it inline on the blue wire/ hot wire from cdi to engine and use that to turn engine off/on

    3. get a torque wrench and double check the head bolts. Mine shoulda been at 17 lbs and they werre only at 12 lbs torque

    4. make sure all bolts on carbereutor are tight. One of my bolts that holds the bottom bowl on was very loose

    5. make sure intake gasket properly fits carb exhaust port and engine intake...if not, cut it for a better fit.

    6. ditch the chinese spark plug and get a ngk-B6HS

    7. gap it at .020 so theres a bit stronger spark

    8. put small lockwashers on the 2 bolts that hold the carbereutor intake flange to the engine intake

    9. recheck all nuts/ bolts after 1st tank of gas.

    10. make sure to provide a support/fastener to the muffler to the frame instead of relying on the 2 small exhaust bolts to hold the muffler suspended in the air.

    Does this sound cool ...or does anyopne else have things to add ? I figured it would be very convenient to have these important procedures listed all in one thread so all newbies could easily find it/ read it.
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2008

  2. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

  3. I sortta thought this has been done before, anyway I'll add a couple of things.

    1. The clutch operating arm, out of the box it is at the wrong angle for smooth and light operation, it tends to "pull" the inner cable.
    Ive added a couple of pics, its on splines, if you moved it towards the carby a couple of splines you get a straighter run for the inner cable and makes for 2 finger opperation and longer cable life.

    2. Ok the magneto, has been said you should seal the grommet for the wires and the cover to stop water entering, while the cover is off have a close look at the magneto winding and check for any stray strands of wire.
    I was chasing a misfire and one night i was running it out the back and noticed a spark jump from the crank case to the frame.
    I took off the wiring, coil and mag and found this almost invisible tiny strand hanging out of the winding, Ive added a pic with an arrow, is hard to see.
    Misfire gone and for sure it would have eventually caused magneto failure.


    Attached Files:

  4. Simon_A

    Simon_A Member

    Phil, could you please expand on this for me? Hate to sound like an idiot, but I dont follow what you mean and it sounds like a worthy piece of maintenance.
  5. The clutch arm is held on the shaft by a nut. If you remove the nut, you can gently pry the arm upwards and off the shaft. You will see the shaft is splined, as is the arm. Rotate the arm counterclockwise inward a few splines for a smoother pull from the cable adjuster. I also soldered a piece of 3/8" copper onto my arm to make it even smoother. I hope this helps...

    Attached Files:

  6. No worries Simon, misteright has explained better than I can but heres some pics, bit of tute.

    1. undo nut
    2. take off cover
    3. turn and take out arm
    4. use block of timber so you don't damge threads, knock out shaft
    5. put pin back in cover
    6. put cover back on
    7. line up arm so cable is straight
    8. retighten nut
    9. have a beer
    mosquito13 likes this.
  7. Simon_A

    Simon_A Member

    Sweet, Many thanks. Will adjust mine as well.
  8. Marktur

    Marktur Member

    This is a great little "tweak" much better than buying a longer arm that has a bend!
    I will do this tonight!
  9. Man I knew I was forgetting something when I did mine!!!!!! Step 9..... Now I'll have to go back and do it again....Great pics Phil.
  10. How about .

    Using lock tight!!
    sanding ( on A smooth surface ) Or file rough casting on both intake Manifold and exhaust muffler .
    Buying any extra Fuel Filter.
    Correctly Zip tie rear wheel spokes together ( helps keep tire from twisting)
    Inspecting Sprocket and filing burs so chain wont jump off
    Placing correct size O ring in Manifold To carb.* ( preventing Air leaks)
    using zip ties Or thin mechanics wire to secure fuel line to both gas tank and carb.
    Using a little silicone on the wires going into the motor ( helps prevent water passage)
    Using double sided tape on the coil to frame to help hold while installing .
    Rounding off the top corners of the chain idler with a Grinder.( removing sharp edges and looks good as well )

    To name a few off the top of my head.

    Thank you for the list.


    mosquito13 likes this.
  11. rumme

    rumme Member

    zip tie rear wheel spokes? whats that mean?
  12. Where your spokes cross over each other you tie them together with wire, or like stated I used small zip ties. If you break a spoke (which will be less likely cause they are supported now by each other) at least they will stay together and maybe not stick into something else causing an accident,,,
  13. rumme

    rumme Member

    ty.....I got a roll of tie wire.....and zip ties. Great idea.
  14. mcassMB6

    mcassMB6 Member

    Hey, can anyone upload a picture showing the exhaust support that was mentioned in this thread? I'd like to see that.
  15. crazygringo

    crazygringo Member

    Because I have had a chain come off and tear up my spokes I made a chaingaurd out of a frisbee and used the zipties on the spokes to hold it on as well
  16. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    Easy... Here are rules every MBer can use:

    (1) Get a kevlar tire, a tire liner, a puncture resistant inner tube, a rim/spoke liner, and never worry about a flat again. Also, don't forget to check pressure every two weeks or so.
    (2) Replace all nuts & bolts with Grade 8 stuff that won't bend like the Chinese stuff. And definitely don't forget the LocTite! And don't tighten bolts too tight, as it could strip the engine.
    (3) Hog the road if you're using the road. This way, people will be forced to give you your space. Some don't give you space at all.
    (4) Get a great headlight!
    (5) Wear gloves.
    richard jewett likes this.
  17. miczer01

    miczer01 New Member

    I have air bubbles in the fuel tube .Does it lead to missing while driving.
  18. alex

    alex Guest

    What do I put in the hole towards the rear of the engine that has the clutch cable holder screwed into it?
  19. alex

    alex Guest

  20. spad4me

    spad4me Member

    Grease of course.

    There are three places to grease a happy time clutch.
    1 where the drive chain goes. A ball and pin (Chinese through out bearing.)

    2 Where the clutch spring actually lives.
    remove the bolt, and clutch cable end holder from under the carb. Use a grease gun to fill this spot up. It also greases the bearing that will fail on you.

    3 the pea sized blob for the gears in the clutch housing.