Pre-build checklist: Things all new owners should do with these 2 stroke kits...

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Jun 11, 2008
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#1
I thought this thread might make a good " sticky thread" to be permanently posted at the top of this specific forum if the moderators agreed. It would be a thread totally devoted to things that need to be done/ checked before running a new engine :


1. Clean out gas tank because it may have metal filings in it and install a inline fuel filter.

2. Dont use the stock method for shutting engine off. Purchase a switch and hook it inline on the blue wire/ hot wire from cdi to engine and use that to turn engine off/on

3. get a torque wrench and double check the head bolts. Mine shoulda been at 17 lbs and they werre only at 12 lbs torque

4. make sure all bolts on carbereutor are tight. One of my bolts that holds the bottom bowl on was very loose

5. make sure intake gasket properly fits carb exhaust port and engine intake...if not, cut it for a better fit.

6. ditch the chinese spark plug and get a ngk-B6HS

7. gap it at .020 so theres a bit stronger spark

8. put small lockwashers on the 2 bolts that hold the carbereutor intake flange to the engine intake

9. recheck all nuts/ bolts after 1st tank of gas.

10. make sure to provide a support/fastener to the muffler to the frame instead of relying on the 2 small exhaust bolts to hold the muffler suspended in the air.


Does this sound cool ...or does anyopne else have things to add ? I figured it would be very convenient to have these important procedures listed all in one thread so all newbies could easily find it/ read it.
 
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Joined
Jun 3, 2008
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#3
I sortta thought this has been done before, anyway I'll add a couple of things.

1. The clutch operating arm, out of the box it is at the wrong angle for smooth and light operation, it tends to "pull" the inner cable.
Ive added a couple of pics, its on splines, if you moved it towards the carby a couple of splines you get a straighter run for the inner cable and makes for 2 finger opperation and longer cable life.

2. Ok the magneto, has been said you should seal the grommet for the wires and the cover to stop water entering, while the cover is off have a close look at the magneto winding and check for any stray strands of wire.
I was chasing a misfire and one night i was running it out the back and noticed a spark jump from the crank case to the frame.
I took off the wiring, coil and mag and found this almost invisible tiny strand hanging out of the winding, Ive added a pic with an arrow, is hard to see.
Misfire gone and for sure it would have eventually caused magneto failure.


Phil
 

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#4
1. The clutch operating arm, out of the box it is at the wrong angle for smooth and light operation, it tends to "pull" the inner cable.
Ive added a couple of pics, its on splines, if you moved it towards the carby a couple of splines you get a straighter run for the inner cable and makes for 2 finger opperation and longer cable life.

Phil
Phil, could you please expand on this for me? Hate to sound like an idiot, but I dont follow what you mean and it sounds like a worthy piece of maintenance.
 
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#5
The clutch arm is held on the shaft by a nut. If you remove the nut, you can gently pry the arm upwards and off the shaft. You will see the shaft is splined, as is the arm. Rotate the arm counterclockwise inward a few splines for a smoother pull from the cable adjuster. I also soldered a piece of 3/8" copper onto my arm to make it even smoother. I hope this helps...
 

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#6
No worries Simon, misteright has explained better than I can but heres some pics, bit of tute.

1. undo nut
IMG_0119.jpg
2. take off cover
IMG_0120.jpg
3. turn and take out arm
IMG_0121.jpg
4. use block of timber so you don't damge threads, knock out shaft
IMG_0124.JPG
5. put pin back in cover
IMG_0125.JPG
6. put cover back on
IMG_0126.JPG
7. line up arm so cable is straight
IMG_0127.JPG
8. retighten nut
IMG_0128.JPG
9. have a beer
 
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Apr 30, 2008
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#8
This is a great little "tweak"...so much better than buying a longer arm that has a bend!
I will do this tonight!
 
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#10
How about .

Using lock tight!!
sanding ( on A smooth surface ) Or file rough casting on both intake Manifold and exhaust muffler .
Buying any extra Fuel Filter.
Correctly Zip tie rear wheel spokes together ( helps keep tire from twisting)
Inspecting Sprocket and filing burs so chain wont jump off
Placing correct size O ring in Manifold To carb.* ( preventing Air leaks)
using zip ties Or thin mechanics wire to secure fuel line to both gas tank and carb.
Using a little silicone on the wires going into the motor ( helps prevent water passage)
Using double sided tape on the coil to frame to help hold while installing .
Rounding off the top corners of the chain idler with a Grinder.( removing sharp edges and looks good as well )

To name a few off the top of my head.

Thank you for the list.

cheers

Bob.

BlueCollarBikes@Gmail.com
 
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