Red Clutch Pads

I have cropped the diagram to point it out better. Sorry I can't edit photos any better than that on my phone. You can take the cable stop out of the crankcase and insert a flat head screwdriver down the hole to hold the nut still while you push the bike forwards, or backwards. (I thought you would push the bike backwards but you'll find out anyway when you do it.)

Forwards or backwards depending on what you're doing.

I did a forum search and GearNut had this to say about increasing clutch pad tension:

The main clutch spring that squeezes the clutch together is inside the transmission case, between the clutch and final drive sprocket. It is adjustable from the outside of the cases.
1. Remove clutch cable from engine.
2. Remove sprocket cover with clutch release lever.
3. Remove clutch cable stop from top of transmission. It just unscrews after loosening the lock nut that binds against the top of the transmission housing.
4. Find a strong flat bladed screwdriver that fits snugly down into the hole that the clutch cable stop was threaded into.
5. The spring adjusting nut is basically a threaded collar with 4 notches, equally spaced, cut around it's circumference. The trick here is to rotate the final drive sprocket with channel lock pliers or similar tool that will not damage the sprocket teeth.
Rotate the sprocket while pressing down on the screwdriver until you feel the screwdriver slip down into one of the 4 notches of the spring adjusting collar.
Once the screwdriver fits into one of the notches, the sprocket and sprocket shaft should be difficult to turn.
6. Hold the adjusting nut inside the cases stationary with the screwdriver and turn the sprocket clockwise to tighten the main clutch spring.
Do not adjust is too tight as doing so will only make squeezing the clutch lever harder, strain the clutch cable, and accelerate wear on the clutch release components inside the cases.
1/2 to 1 full turn should be plenty, but you may have to experiment a little (read do all of this over a few times).
7. re-asemble everything back together, adjust your clutch cable and flower nut back to "normal", and enjoy a clutch that actually puts proper pressure onto the clutch pads.

So I guess its gonna be adjust the flower nut to where I think it should be, remove the clutch cable stop, flathead and roll the bike back to tighten it and then set the flower nut where it is tight.

I got this

This is totally what's going on, hopefully these pads aren't wrecked by the time I get in there. im sure it'll be fine
 
Forwards or backwards depending on what you're doing.



So I guess its gonna be adjust the flower nut to where I think it should be, remove the clutch cable stop, flathead and roll the bike back to tighten it and then set the flower nut where it is tight.

I got this

This is totally what's going on, hopefully these pads aren't wrecked by the time I get in there. im sure it'll be fine

 
Well I am back from my lunch break.

The nut is on the clutch side of the clutch stop hole, it has 4 notches and I had to use a crosstop screwdriver and move my carb. Got it tightened up then reset my cable and flower nut, has that new engine feel on the clutch, test ride later.

I have a feeling its gonna grip and finally blow my near dead exhaust gasket.

I just got my thin copper head gasket, still have to resurface my 2nd head before I change it out. Test ride is gonna happen first, then i'll see these pads under higher compression


TEST RIDE - Its better, will get me around however I will need to increase the pressure before I fit it for higher compression.
 
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I have cropped the diagram to point it out better. Sorry I can't edit photos any better than that on my phone. You can take the cable stop out of the crankcase and insert a flat head screwdriver down the hole to hold the nut still while you push the bike forwards, or backwards. (I thought you would push the bike backwards but you'll find out anyway when you do it.)
Yeah your right it's backwards I messed up above,I dont actualy roll the bike lol I just turn the wheel by hand but yeah it's backwards and the easiest way to get proper clutch tension!
 
Yeah your right it's backwards I messed up above,I dont actualy roll the bike lol I just turn the wheel by hand but yeah it's backwards and the easiest way to get proper clutch tension!

I set the flower nut the same height as the 3 rods, rolled backwards until it was stuck then it was for me 2 piston revolutions rolling forward to unstuck and snappy arm.

Now I am waiting on aluminum exhaust gaskets before I install the .5cm head gasket, gonna just sand the head I have once or twice a day until then and more likely than not its gonna run amazing.
 
Good news, put 25 miles in today, these pads are holding up well.

Definitely had to set my spring. As it constantly is loosening slowly, it will likely need revisited before 1000 miles add up. I will just keep up on the flower nut until it settles into a good spot.

Just got my speedometer in the mail so I will have a tripometer to do maintenance every 100 250 450 500 750 1000 miles.

I don't like the amount of work its taking to break in these pads, but as long as its operating well I'm happy.
 
... Just got my speedometer in the mail so I will have a tripometer to do maintenance every 100 250 450 500 750 1000 miles.

I don't like the amount of work its taking to break in these pads, but as long as its operating well I'm happy.
150+200+50+250+250...


Where the hell did that math come from?
 
that's usually what my tripometer says when i have to fix stuff
Oh I see, mine usually just says 0 miles and I still manage to have problems.

Right now :
20170511_111449-1.jpg
 
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